NORTH
ANFEH, BATROUN, BCHARRE, DOUMA, MIZIARA, QOBAYAT, TANNOURINE, TRIPOLI
ANFEH
Known to many as “Little Greece” due to the small coves and blue and white chalets that dot its coast, Anfeh is not a town that one merely passes through; it is a place so firmly rooted in its history that it becomes endearing, almost magnetic.
GETTING THERE
Anfeh is located in North Lebanon, about an hour and a half from Beirut. It is accessed by the Beirut-tripoli highway and can also be reached by the old coastal road.
WHAT TO DO Walk Around
Nothing is more pleasant than to walk around Anfeh to discover the town’s hidden gems, including Our Lady of the Wind Church, with its recently restored 12th
century paintings. You can also visit the impressive remains of the crossed citadel, destroyed by the Mamluks.
Salt Marshes
Daughter of the wind and sea, Anfeh was destined to become a capital of salt, or of "white gold." Its famous salt marshes can be admired in the grounds of Our Lady Saydet El Natour Convent in the far north of the town. As an extension of the sea, sparkling with a thousand lights, these traditional structures mark the landscape with a beauty of their own.
Little Greece
For many years now, Lebanese and foreigners have fallen in love with its small coves and blue and white chalets where you can rent a chair and a parasol and spend the day eating in tiny restaurants, go swimming and diving or have a few cocktails while people-watching.
WHERE TO EAT
Several charming restaurants can be found in Anfeh, such as the famous Gergi El Dayha (+961 3 127693) near the port, Al Baydar (+961 6 542942), Al Hara Al Sharkiya (+961 6 545532), Wassim Aal Baher (+961 70 180124/554417) and Chez Fouad (+961
70 830117).
WHERE TO SLEEP
There are three guesthouses in Anfeh: O
Fleur de Sel (+961 70 365920), Anfawiyat
(+961 70 240650) and Marsé (+961 70 000425). For those looking for a property with plenty of facilities, the four-star Las
Salinas (+961 6 540970) resort offers a plethora of leisure activities, including indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a health club and kids’ play area.
BATROUN
A trip to Batroun makes for the perfect warm-weather getaway. Known for having some of the best beach clubs in the country, Batroun greets visitors with pristine blue waters and white pebble beaches.
GETTING THERE
Take the northbound highway out of Beirut past Jounieh and Byblos until you reach Batroun.
WHAT TO DO Mseilha Fort
The fairytale castle of Mseilha, a medieval fort, sits nearby. Built by Emir Fakhreddine II in the 17th century, it was used to guard the route from Tripoli to Beirut. Perched high above a narrow limestone rock, the citadel was recently renovated to make it more accessible to visitors.
Phoenician Sea Wall
The natural sea wall adjacent to the old harbor is almost synonymous with Batroun. The Roman theater is situated north of the wall, with its nine remaining steps.
Old Souk
The charming cobblestone market of Batroun is a popular destination for visitors. Between the vaulted sandstone archways you’ll find merchants selling a variety of products.
End your day at the ruins of Makaad El Mir (Prince’s Rock Seat) with a tall glass of Batroun’s famous lemonade from Hilmi's
(+961 70 173036) or Jessy Juice (+961 6
741564).
Hike along Walnut River
Batroun’s distinct topography allows you to enjoy both the sea and the mountains in the span of a few minutes. Head up 11 kilometers from the city to one of the most beautiful trails along the Walnut River (Nahr el Jawz). Lined with walnut trees near the river’s edge, the trek is fairly easy and picturesque.
Tour the wineries
Follow the wine trail that passes through the northern Lebanese wineries: Batroun
Mountains (+963 3 928299), IXSIR (+961 9
210023), Adyar (+961 9 926950), Atibaia
(+961 1 584555) Aurora (+961 3 295458),
Coteaux de Botrys (+961 6 721300), Domaine S. Najm (+961 3 524425), Chateau Sanctus (+961 3 661699) and Clos du Phoenix (+961 3 271672).
WHERE TO EAT
Chez Maguy (+961 3 439147) is a charming seaside restaurant run by Maguy, who loves to share her passion for cooking with the world.
With its chilled-out ambience and ecofriendly culture, Colonel Beer Brewery
(+961 6 743543, colonelbeer.com) is more than just a microbrewery. Pass by this popular hang-out for an afternoon of fun.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Tastefully furnished with exquisite antiques, Beit Al Batroun (+961 3
270049, beitalbatroun.com) is a welcoming guesthouse that’s ideal for a weekend getaway.
In the heart of Batroun’s old souk is
L’auberge de la Mer (+961 6 740824, laubergedelamer.com), a nine-room boutique hotel boasting marvelous sea views and a slower pace of life.
BCHARRE
Perched atop the stunning Qadisha Valley, Bcharre is an idyllic mountain village. There are traditional mountain houses, panoramic views, cedar trees and great restaurants dotted throughout the area. The town of Bcharre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and after spending a day in this pristine mountain town, it’s not hard to see why.
GETTING THERE
Take the northern highway out of Beirut to Batroun and follow the signs up into the mountains, past Chekka, Amioun and Kousba, until you reach Bcharre.
WHAT TO DO Gibran Museum
Bcharre is the hometown of the famous Lebanese poet Gibran Khalil Gibran (18831931), whose poetry and artwork reflects his upbringing in Lebanon’s mountains. The museum itself is a 19th-century monastery that was cut straight into the rock. The exhibition consists mostly of Gibran’s paintings, snippets of his original poetry, and even his coffin. Entrance to the museum costs just 5,000 LBP, but it is closed on Mondays.
+961 6 671137, gibrankhalilgibran.org
Cedars of God
A short car ride away from Bcharre is the Cedars of God, a beautiful reserve holding the ancient and epic trees Lebanon is famous for. The Cedars of God are absolutely majestic. These mammoth trees have been around longer than any living thing and their subdued magnificence exude an almost spiritual aura. Outside the reserve you’ll see several souvenir and snack shops. The reserve is open from 10 am to 6 pm daily.
Qadisha Valley
The Qadisha Valley is the kind of place you might think only exists in movies. This magnificent valley cuts into the land and is surrounded by soaring, pine-covered mountains on both sides. The best way to enjoy the valley is on foot. Hike on the dirt road, which leads deeper into the valley and turn back whenever you get tired. For a more arduous hike, there are trails leading from Qadisha to Ehden that span 16km. For more information on the hikes, contact the Lebanese Mountain Trail Association (05 955302, lebanontrail.org). Qadisha is also home to various hermitages and monasteries. If you want to visit the monasteries, the Monastery of Mar Elisha and Deir Mar
Semaan, a hermitage founded in AD 1112, are both beautiful and easy to get to. Just ask around and you’ll be pointed in the right direction.
WHERE TO EAT
Abou Joseph (+961 3 147278) is located in the Qadisha Valley and is easily one of the most scenic places you can go to for a Lebanese mezze. Although the decor is simple, with plastic chairs and tables, the river and the soaring mountains will make you feel at one with nature.
Located between the Cedars of God and Bcharre, Cedars Heaven (+961 3 743760) sits above the Qadisha Valley and boasts one of the most expansive views of the area. Due to its outdoor location, the restaurant is only open during summer.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Hotel Chbat (+961 6 672672, hotelchbat. net) is the most luxurious hotel in Bcharre, with suites overlooking the valley, a rooftop pool and an upscale restaurant. The views from the valley-facing rooms are nothing short of spectacular.
Tiger House (+ 961 3 087126) is a favorite among budget travelers in the area due to its low prices and convenience. Tiger House is a good place to spend the night in the mountains and use as a base while you navigate the surrounding area. They offer private or dormitory-style rooms.
DOUMA
Set in the heart of the Batroun mountains, Douma bears all the hallmarks of a traditional Lebanese village, with its quaint houses, noise-free streets and charming souk.
GETTING THERE
Douma is located around 80km from Beirut. Take the highway north towards Tripoli, exiting at Amchit. Continue towards Lehfed, then Mayfouk and follow the directions to Douma.
WHAT TO DO Old Souk
The old souk of Douma is picture perfect, so be sure to keep your camera handy. You can enjoy a stroll around the stores and pick up some local specialties, including halawa, olive oil and homemade jams.
Hiking and Trekking
At over 1,000m above sea level, Douma offers breathtaking views and great hiking opportunities. Visitors can explore the nearby village of Bchaaleh, where there are olive trees dating back thousands of years.
Another popular hiking trail is from Douma to the Baatara gorge in Balaa (see Tannourine mini guide). At 250m deep, the Baatara sinkhole was carved by water 160 million years ago and boasts three natural bridges inside it. The highlight is the waterfall, which can be observed during winter and spring.
Assia Pottery
Less than a 10-minute drive from Douma lies the village of Assia, where the tradition of pottery-making is still alive. Visit Sana Jabbour (+961 3 630626), a local artisan, to learn more about the craft and discover the unique items her family has been making for generations.
WHERE TO EAT
Established in 1969, Esclapio (+961 6 520520) is a popular spot for indulging in Lebanese mezze and a glass of arak. Located in the heart of Douma, the restaurant offers an exceptional view as well as a lively entertainment program on weekends.
You won’t be able to miss the charming
Doumanian Coffee Shop (+961 71 186622) nestled in Douma’s old souk. Adorned with ornaments and novelties, pop in for a refreshing drink or a bite to eat. The Doumanian Coffee Shop serves a variety of Lebanese specialties, such as foul and balila, beid balade w awarma bel fekhara, kaake and saj.
Run by the delightful Jamal Chalhoub,
Istirahit El Moukhtara (+961 71 224446) is a simple bakery just off the main street of Douma. Indulge in tasty awarma, kishk and saj, which Jamal will prepare and serve with a smile.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Part of the Souk el Tayeb family, Beit
Douma (+961 6 520702, beitdouma.com) is an old Lebanese house dating back to the 19th century. With incredible views over the mountains, the property offers six charming guest rooms.
Overlooking the village, Hotel Douma
(+961 6 520202, hoteldouma.com) offers 40 comfortable rooms and suites. There are also a number of on-site facilities, including a children’s play area and a tennis court. The hotel can also arrange local guides for those interested in exploring the countryside.
Just minutes away from the souk lies
My Stone Cellar (+961 71 283485, mystonecellar.com) at ISHAC Residence, a stone-cellar guesthouse set in a 1903 heritage house. Offering four exceptional cellar rooms, it’s a wonderful choice for those seeking something a little different.
MIZIARA
Perched on a hilltop 800m above the sea, the northern village of Miziara is home to some of the most unusual houses in the country, including one constructed out of an old airplane. The village also boasts incredibly well-maintained and organized streets, something of a rarity in Lebanon!
GETTING THERE
Miziara is within a two-hour drive from Beirut. Take the coastal highway northbound towards Tripoli. After passing Hamat, exit the highway onto the Chekka-amioun Road and follow the road to Miziara.
WHAT TO DO
Our Lady of Miziara, Mother of Mercies
Built in 1979, Our Lady of Miziara is a Marian shrine that stands at the entrance of the village. The shrine consists of a statue of the Virgin Mary and is guarded by two statues of angels made of limestone. Some sculptural representations of Christ’s baptism, the wedding at Cana and the last supper can also be found in the shrine. A spacious park surrounds the site and is paved with walkways between olive and oak trees. Statuary nooks depict scenes from the gospels, such as the nativity, the flight into Egypt, the baptism of Christ and the Crucifixion.
Bnachii Lake
Located within a 20-minute drive of Miziara is the Bnachii Lake. The lake offers visitors the opportunity to hire pedalos or take boat rides. In addition, the path surrounding the lake is perfect for a long walk or a jog.
Built on the banks of the Bnachii Lake is the Wildlife Taxidermy Museum (+961 6 550550). Containing more than 3,000 stuffed animals, the museum comprises five areas, including sea life, reptiles, mammals and birds.
Around Christmas time each year, a magical festival takes place by the lake. The area comes alive with an elaborately lit Christmas tree, colorful decorations and a festive market.
Horsh Ehden Nature Reserve
Located just 10 minutes away from Miziara is the magnificent Horsh Ehden Nature Reserve. Rich in biodiversity, the reserve has recorded more than 1,058 plant species, which accounts for nearly 40 percent of all native plant species in Lebanon. The reserve is home to the iconic cedar of Lebanon as well as other coniferous, deciduous and evergreen broadleaf trees. An impressive variety of wild animals, including the golden jackal and the red fox, can also be spotted on occasion in the dense forest.
Hikes can be arranged with local guides. Contact +961 70 601601 or visit horshehden. org for more information.
WHERE TO EAT
Founded in 1996, La Crepinette Restaurant
(+ 961 6 570005) is located in the heart of Miziara. It is well known for its delicious food and signature crêpes.
WHERE TO SLEEP
With 12 rooms and nine suites, Hotel
Miziara (+961 6 570521, hotelmiziara.com) is an elegant boutique property. Most of the rooms have views of the mountains and the coast. An array of activities can be enjoyed at the hotel or in the surrounding area, including cycling.
QOBAYAT
Unspoiled forests stretching as far as the eye can see define the northern gem of Qobayat, one of Akkar’s largest villages. It is a place where Phoenician, Roman, Byzantine and Arab civilizations have settled and where one can find archaeological remains dating as far back as 3000 BC.
GETTING THERE
Qobayat is around 140km from Beirut. Drive towards Tripoli, then Halba, before heading up to the village.
WHAT TO DO Mar Doumit
Serving as the first school in the village, Mar Doumit — Qobayat’s 183-year-old convent — stands beneath a magnificent, ancient oak tree. One can also visit the Museum of Butterflies, which is inside the convent.
Karm Chbat Nature Reserve
Respect for the environment is a priority in Qobayat, largely thanks to the environmental committee of the village, and visiting the Karm Chbat Nature Reserve is an essential part of any trip. Explore the reserve and witness the beautiful patchwork of firs, cedars, oaks and juniper trees.
Outdoor Activities
There are plenty of year-round ecotourism activities available in Qobayat. These include hiking, climbing and abseiling. Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing can be enjoyed in winter.
WHERE TO EAT
The first thing you need to try when visiting Qobayat is the local tannour bread, which can be found at Hatbe w Nar (+961 6 352400/3 758798). In addition to the traditional bread, they also serve excellent manouche and succulent shawarma, guaranteed to hit the spot.
Zahrtoni (+961 81 469844/3 914717) is a delightful, modern restaurant that offers authentic Italian and Lebanese cuisine, including delicious, homemade pasta.
Dishing up all kinds of local specialties,
Fares Restaurant (+961 70 500082) is a family business specializing in traditional Lebanese food. It is open only during summer.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Jabalna Ecolodge (+961 3 542935) is the village’s first fully ecological guesthouse project. Expect an amazing view, a wonderful atmosphere, great service and a get-awayfrom-it-all experience.
TANNOURINE
Nature and history collide to form one of the most splendid places in Lebanon, the beautiful town of Tannourine. Located in the Batroun District, Tannourine boasts a wonderful ecosystem and historical treasures hidden in every corner.
GETTING THERE
Nestled in the mountains, Tannourine is located just over 70km north of Beirut. Take the coastal road in the direction of Tripoli. After passing Byblos, continue towards Batroun and exit the highway onto the Batroun-tannourine Road. The town is signposted from there on.
WHAT TO DO Tannourine Cedars Forest
This forest is one of the densest in the country and has avoided heavy tourist activity thanks to its unique topography. A great place for hiking and exploring, you’re sure to run into unique fauna and flora on the way while marveling at the evergreen cedars that embody Lebanon’s history and continuity. arztannourine.org
Baatara Sinkhole
Perhaps one of the most well known of Tannourine’s natural wonders, the Baatara Sinkhole is a fascinating gorge and waterfall. Discovered in 1952, the site has three natural bridges, rising one above the other. During spring, visitors can see a beautiful cascade behind the bridges. The location is perfect for thrill seekers who wish to do some climbing, caving or exploring, weather permitting.
Roman Aqueduct
One of the region’s most interesting hidden treasures is the Roman aqueduct in Tannourine El Tahta. A structure of simple arches and stone, the aqueduct was used to transport water for agriculture and daily use. Beyond this structure lies a cliff perfect for rock climbing.
Abandoned village of Ain Al Raha
This once inhabited village is home to sixthcentury churches and monasteries, some of the oldest evidence of Christianity in the region. A walk through the village, located in the higher mountain area of Tannourine El Tahta, is like a step back in time.
WHERE TO EAT
Possibly one of the most scenic restaurants in the region, Moultaka Al Nahrein (+961 3 536874) gets its name from its famous location. Lying at the intersection of two rivers, the restaurant offers traditional Lebanese food coupled with a perfect view.
Situated on the Al Jaouz River, Wadi El Deir
(+961 3 523563) is a family-run restaurant serving up all sorts of traditional delicacies such as stuffed eggplant and goat cheese in oil. Named after the 1,500-year-old monastery Deir Mar Mtannios, it’s a great option for a lazy afternoon. Call in advance as it is not open daily during winter.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Overlooking the mountains of Tannourine,
Mountain View Tannourine (+961 3 497775) is a haven of tranquility, with all the modern comforts to make you feel right at home. The fully furnished wooden bungalows are luxurious, boasting a garden and a great view of the mountains.
Eco Dalida (+961 3 679055) stands near the entrance of the Tannourine Cedars Reserve. With exceptional views from its terrace, this quaint eco-lodge offers guests a comfortable stay, with a cozy communal area and a restaurant serving authentic Lebanese food.
TRIPOLI
Tripoli is Lebanon’s second largest city and provides visitors with a great Middle Eastern vibe. Wander around the winding market places and historical sites and you’ll soon find yourself falling for its charm.
GETTING THERE
Tripoli is located around 80km north of Beirut. Take the coastal highway northbound from the capital past Jounieh and Byblos, and follow the signs to Tripoli.
WHAT TO DO Old Souks
Your first stop in Tripoli should be the old souks. Head into the souk, a frenetic maze of jewelry shops, kaake vendors and juice stands. Scattered throughout its tight alleyways are various Mamluk, Crusader and Ottoman relics, like the Mansouri Mosque, the Khan Al Saboun, a beautiful courtyard where soap is still made by hand, and Hammam El Jadid, a hammam with stunning mosaics and a glass dome ceiling.
Citadel of Raymond de Saint-gilles
Tripoli’s Citadel was built by Raymond VI of Saint Gilles, a knight of the very First Crusade, who set out to conquer Tripoli and erected the castle around AD 1100. You can roam through the sprawling grounds of this Crusader Castle and admire its Frankish and Ottoman foundations. Every stone staircase leads to a new deck and each doorway opens up into a grand hall from Lebanon’s past. Climbing through the structure to the very top of the castle, visitors will find an unmatched panorama of Tripoli from above.
El Mina and Corniche
Roaming around the laid-back seaside neighborhood of El Mina is a must in Tripoli. The El Mina quarter juts out into the sea and is defined by its relaxed and quaint atmosphere. Buildings are old and beautiful, and there is a tenable small town feeling, complete with colorful houses, local churches and charming back-alleys.
Rashid Karami International Fair
Designed by renowned Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, the International Fair comprises 15 modernist concrete structures, which were intended to create a tourist hub. The complex was partially completed in 1974 but left unfinished due to Lebanon’s Civil War. The Getty Foundation recently announced that the site was being given a 225,000 USD grant as part of their “Keeping It Modern” initiative to spend on a two-year conservation and management plan. UNESCO has also placed the fair on their Indicative Heritage List, which is a step towards being considered for full World Heritage List status.
Palm Island Reserve
The Palm Island Reserve consists of three islands. Declared a protected site by UNESCO in 1992, the islands are populated with endangered species of rabbits, monk seals and turtles. The largest island, Nakheel, features around 2,500 palm trees, with paths laid out for visitors. The islands are open to the public from July to September so take advantage. Just remember to negotiate the price of your boat trip at the port, pack some food and float away.
WHERE TO EAT
Walking into Al Sayad Nakhle (+961 79 117986) in El Mina, a shabby little kiosk, you might not expect to find some of the freshest fish sandwiches in Tripoli. Made to order, people stand in line to enjoy their tasty fried fish, spicy fish, shrimp, octopus and calamari sandwiches.
Although Danoun (+961 6 438844) may not look like much from the outside, this renowned spot in the Al Tall neighborhood is almost always full. Be sure to stop by to try their foul and hummus. You won't regret it!
Akra (+961 6 438500) is also known for serving the traditional Tripoli fare of foul and hummus for breakfast. Akra is perfect for morning bite or a quick meal. The restaurant is clean and comfortable, and the service is great.
Warche 13 (+961 3 467795) is a trendy café with an active artistic community. Situated in El Mina, Warche 13 is a great place if you’re looking for organic yogurt or a sandwich. Enjoy their regular events, which range from open-mic poetry nights to live music.
If you want ice cream made the oldfashioned way, head to Orchid Ice Cream
(+961 70 044680, orchidicecream.com) for a cone filled with fresh ice cream and smothered in pistachios. Established in 1919, Orchid is well known for producing its ice cream by hand and using local ingredients, like strawberries, rose water, pistachio and lemon, to make a refreshing sorbet or creamy treat.
You haven’t fully experienced Tripoli until you’ve tried the delicious Lebanese sweets at Hallab 1881 (+961 6 444445, hallab. com.lb) a family-run business. Kasr El Helou, the firm’s flagship store, is considered one of the city’s most renowned landmarks, so make sure you stop for some of their famous baklawa, maamoul and knefe.
WHERE TO SLEEP
The charming Via Mina Hotel (+961 6 222227, viamina.com) is the perfect place to rest after a busy day in Tripoli. Its colorful walls, outdoor pool, and tasteful decor create an idyllic oasis in this hectic city.
Each room is equipped with air conditioning, complimentary beverages and snacks, and all-organic toiletries.
Beit El Nessim (+961 6 200983, beitelnessim.com) is another great option in the El Mina neighborhood. The guesthouse is thoughtfully decorated and boasts a beautiful rooftop terrace from which to admire the surrounding area. The owner is a yoga instructor and will arrange lessons for an additional fee.