South
BKASSINE, CANA, JEZZINE, JOUAYA, MAGHDOUCHE, SAIDA, TYRE
BKASSINE
Bkassine (Beit Kassin), an Aramaic-syriac word meaning “village of the disappeared,” is considered an authentic gem of South Lebanon. Located 70km from Beirut in the Jezzine District, it is surrounded by enchanting views of a century-old seemingly endless pine forest.
GETTING THERE
From Beirut, take the main highway south towards Saida and follow the signs to Salhiye, Lebaa, Majdfelyoun and Kfarfalous. Continue to Bkassine.
WHAT TO DO Hiking
The village offers hiking enthusiasts two trails that vary in terms of difficulty but are equally enchanting. One offers the more experienced hiker breathtaking views of Wadi Jezzine and the Bisri Valley and continues through the old village of Kfartaala, which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1956. The second trail departs from Bkassine’s main square and offers hikers panoramic views of Saida and the Mediterranean Sea from Ain El Zaarour and El Roummani.
For more information about hiking, contact the municipality (+961 7 800580/+961 7 800046) or Joe Harfouch (+961 3 353293).
Churches
Bkassine is characterized by the charm of its central square where you’ll find Saint Takla, a beautiful church. You can also visit the nearby church of Our Lady of Salvation, built in 1855, and Saint Joseph Monastery. Every September Bkassine celebrates the Saint Takla Festival, which is a hugely popular event in the South.
Local Delicacies and Wine Tasting
You can discover some of Bkassine’s finest products, including pine nuts, extra virgin olive oil, pure forest honey, goat labneh and the traditional kishk, at j.grove (+961 7 800766/81 800769).
Wine enthusiasts will enjoy a trip to Karam
Winery (+961 1 370519), which tells the story of two brothers who brought back to life their ancestral vineyards with a unique line of wines.
WHERE TO EAT
If you’re craving a delicious Lebanese meal, Beit El Ghabeh (+961 7 800222) uses local products to support the region’s producers. If it’s on the menu, taste layali Bkassine, a delicious dessert item.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Maison de la Forêt (+961 7 800222/78 828252) lies within the Bkassine Pine Forest. It offers 25 bungalows and an additional five rooms of various sizes named after trees, fruits and different elements of nature.
CANA
Standing in the heart of South Lebanon, Cana is considered by some to be the biblical village of Cana of Galilee. It has a mixed population and is a flourishing site for Christian religious tourism; some historians argue that this is where Christ performed his first miracle during the famous Cana Wedding.
GETTING THERE
From Beirut, take the highway to Saida, then head towards Tyre. From there, take the seaside road and turn towards Cana at the gas station Safieddine. Alternatively, you can follow the road that leads to Jouaya, then the road to Cana. The latter road offers breathtaking views of the hinterland.
WHAT TO DO
Remnants of the Cana wedding
According to the Gospel of John, at the Cana wedding Jesus turned water into wine at his mother’s request. The Gospel refers to six stone vats that were used for Jewish ritual ablutions, the water in which was turned to wine. Today, large vats dating to those times can still be found in Cana.
Al-jalil Sanctuary
Not far from Cana’s vats stands the sanctuary of the prophet Al-jalil, a holy man worshipped by the Shia community. Though little is known about him, he is believed to have been the father of the bride at the "Wedding of Cana."
Saint Joseph Catholic Church
The Greek Catholic Church of Saint Joseph can be found in the town’s Christian quarter. Built in 1906, it was damaged by a fire several years ago and was subsequently renovated.
Moussa Tiba Museum
The village is also the proud hometown of the painter Moussa Tiba, who opened a museum there to exhibit his water colors. Visitors to the museum can admire around 300 of Tiba’s works. +961 7 430149/3 568925
WHERE TO EAT
There are several snack shops and bakeries in the village. Local specialties and handicrafts can also be purchased from The Holy Family Association in the Saint Joseph neighborhood. Contact Majida Boutros (+961 71 712315).
WHERE TO SLEEP
Cana itself does not have any hotels or guesthouses, so visitors who wish to spend the night will need to stay in Tyre (see Tyre mini guide).
JEZZINE
Jezzine is Lebanon’s hub for nature tourism due to its breathtaking mountain views, pine forests, and waterfalls. The town and surrounding area have become getaways for visitors seeking a fresh mountain retreat away from the city.
GETTING THERE
Take the highway south out of Beirut and head towards Saida. Turn inland at the Nejmeh roundabout and continue until you see signs for Jezzine.
WHAT TO DO Hiking
A haven for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, Jezzine boasts incredible pine forests that are aching to be explored. Take a guided walk with a specialist operator or simply enjoy wandering around solo.
Jezzine Waterfall
At 74m, Jezzine’s waterfall is the fifth highest in the world attracting tourists from all over the country. You can experience the waterfall by hiking down to its base or enjoy a meal in one of the cafés at its summit.
Old Souk
A number of souvenir shops can be found in the old souks of Jezzine, many of which sell the famous firebird cutlery. Visit the workshops of craftsmen like Boulos Bou Rached to see cutlery being manufactured firsthand.
Fakhreddine Cave
Situated 500m from the Jezzine waterfall, this cave is where Emir Fakhreddine hid before the Ottomans captured and killed him. During the First and Second World
Wars the same cave was used as a refuge for people of the region.
WHERE TO EAT
Situated just above the famous Jezzine waterfall, Al Chalouf (+961 7 781774) boasts great views and tasty mezze.
Enjoy succulent grills and mezze at Jannat
Al Sanawbar (+961 3 780524), another popular restaurant in Jezzine.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Set in the heart of Jezzine, Blue Jay Valley (bluejayvalley.com) is tucked away in a green paradise abundant in pine and oak trees. The property, made up of bungalows and luxury tents, is a lovely retreat promising guests restful nights under a starry night sky.
Surrounded by the beautiful green valleys of Jezzine, Iris Flower Hotel (l-iris.com) is a comfortable and relaxing three-star property.
Consisting of 15 chalets around a small pool, L’étoile du Loup (etoileduloup.com) is located on the top of the hill in Jezzine. It is an excellent choice for families and small groups.
JOUAYA
Situated 14km east of Tyre, Jouaya has an interesting story to tell. A long time ago, many families from this southern village left the country to make their fortunes in Argentina and Africa. When they returned, they built magnificent homes with lush gardens. The olive tree, of course, remains the emblem of Jouaya’s landscape.
GETTING THERE
Drive to the city of Tyre, taking the road of Bourj Al Chemali, then continue to Bazourieh and Wadi Jilo, until you arrive in Jouaya.
WHAT TO DO Architecture
On one of the hills of Jouaya, an outlying section called Jabal El Zaatar, one can find a whole area inspired by beautiful Ottoman architecture. In the same neighborhood, attached to the Maqam Al Sayyah, you can also witness one of the largest mosques in Lebanon.
Kitsch Corners
Pagoda roofs, candy-pink facades, outdoor elevators: the city of Jouaya, whose main street is called Nigeria, is one of those most kitsch and Instagram-worthy rural capitals of the South.
Traditional Food
With its cobbled streets and the mosque dating back to the 19th century, the old souk of Jouaya is worth a stroll. A Saturday butchers’ market used to be commonplace, and one can still enjoy the traditional specialties of the village, including the kebbe nayye. Red lentils and bulgur wheat is another favorite dish, and don’t forget to taste some fresh figs and olives.
WHERE TO EAT
After working up an appetite strolling through Jouaya, head to nearby Tyre for a magnificent seafood lunch fit for a king (see Tyre mini guide).
WHERE TO SLEEP
While there are no hotels in Jouaya, Tyre hosts a wide array of gorgeous guesthouses and hotels (see Tyre mini guide).
MAGHDOUCHE
Located in South Lebanon, Maghdouche is a town with a beautiful story to tell. Recognized as an important destination for pilgrims, it is also a place where agricultural traditions remain strong and where visitors can enjoy a peek into true village life.
GETTING THERE
The town is located 50km south of Beirut. Take the highway southbound from the capital and exit just before you reach Saida. From there, continue on the coastal road until you see a road branching to the left, which is signposted and will direct you to Maghdouche.
WHAT TO DO Our Lady of Mantara
The town’s most famous landmark is the tower of Our Lady of Awaiting, known as
Our Lady of Mantara. Occupying a prominent position at the entrance of the village, it is believed to be the place where Mary waited for her son Jesus Christ when he was preaching in Saida, Cana, Tyre and Sarafand. The cave within which Mary hid was abandoned but rediscovered in 1721 when a shepherd was trying to save a goat that had fallen into a hole. The people of Maghdouche constructed a cathedral and a modern tower above the cave in 1963. Today, it is an internationally recognized pilgrimage site.
Orange blossom harvest
Visit the town at the end of February or early March and you will notice the distinct fragrance of bitter orange trees. Maghdouche is well known for the harvesting of orange flowers and using them in local products, including orange blossom water, marmalades and syrups. At the onset of spring, locals, farmers and families participate in picking the flowers to be sold or distilled.
A picnic is organized every year by Lebanon Stories (+961 3 321054) to the fields of the bitter orange trees, where guests can enjoy the experience while lending farmers a hand with their harvesting.
Hiking
For hikers and nature lovers there is a beautiful hike in Abra, a village located less than a 10-minute drive from Maghdouche.
The easy-level hike takes in beautiful scenery. Hikers can expect to see very old trees, streams and a number of small caves. Contact Samir Sleiman (+961 3 904300) to organize a hike.
WHERE TO EAT
A well-known spot in the area, Kroum El
Chames (+961 70 655959) offers a vast selection of traditional Lebanese dishes.
If you happen to reach Maghdouche in the morning, enjoy a hearty breakfast at Family
Food (+961 7 200320). It’s a great spot to grab a tasty saj. Elie Khoury, the owner of Luma’s Snack
(+961 71 298940), will prepare a delicious sandwich for you to enjoy at this simple yet cozy café.
WHERE TO SLEEP
As there are no hotels in Maghdouche, visitors can spend the night in Saida (see mini guide to Saida).
SAIDA
With a winding old marketplace, a seaside castle and a strong Lebanese heritage, Saida is easily one of Lebanon’s most delightful destinations. Though the coastal city sits just 40km south of Beirut, it has retained a more traditional vibe than the cosmopolitan capital, making it a perfect year-round getaway.
GETTING THERE
Take the highway south out of Beirut and follow the signs to Saida.
WHAT TO DO Sea Castle
Saida’s most iconic landmark is the Sea Castle, built in 1228 by Crusading armies on the site of an old Phoenician temple. Perched on a small island off the coast, the stone castle is framed by the sharp blue Mediterranean Sea, giving it a pictureperfect quality. Entrance to the site costs 4,000 LBP, and it is open daily from 9 am until sunset.
Old Souk
Saida’s old souk is exactly what you might imagine an Arabian bazaar to look like, complete with stone archways and shops selling everything from fruits to souvenirs. Many old religious sites are scattered throughout the souk, so enjoy the adventure of discovering them in the labyrinth of twisting alleyways.
Debbane Palace Museum
This exquisite building, built by Ali Hammoud in 1721, is a beautiful example of Ottoman architecture. The atmospheric space features typical diwans (oriental-style living rooms), a liwan (a long, narrowfronted hall), several rooms and an open-air courtyard, with the characteristic features of the Ottoman period — brown and white stripes of stone and intricate mosaic tiles making up the interior. Despite its location in the bustling old souk, the house is a peaceful escape. museumsaida.org
The Soap Museum
The Soap Museum delves into the art of saponification, the chemical process that produces the soap. The museum is tucked inside an old soap factory, which is now a well-organized and informative museum. For just 5,000 LBP, a guide will take you through the aromatic chambers of the museum.
+961 7 733353, soapmuseumsaida.com
Khan El Franj
Just outside the old souk is Khan El Franj, an old inn built by Fakhreddine II to encourage the silk traders to do business in Saida. Today, visitors can walk through the Khan for free and admire the scenic inner courtyard and arched Ottoman architecture.
WHERE TO EAT
The Rest House (+961 7 722469) is Saida’s most popular restaurant, and for good reason. You can enjoy your lunch right on the waterfront, with an unparalleled view of the Sea Castle. The food is typical
Lebanese mezze.
Set above the maze of the marketplace below, Tawlet Saida (+961 7 733899) will lure you in with its peaceful charm and keep you satisfied with traditional Lebanese food made by local women. Al Kassir (+961 7 720536), a tiny familyowned sweet shop, is well known in the area for producing classic pastries stuffed with nuts and fruits in traditional Lebanese fashion.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Located on the water’s edge just steps from the old souk, the rooms of Al Qalaa Hotel
(+961 7 734777) are charming and cozy. The rooftop restaurant overlooks the Crusader Castle and has the old feel of Saida. Built in the 1920s, Yacoub Hotel (+961 70 103222, yacoubhotel.com) is located in the heart of old Saida. Featuring six uniquely decorated rooms, the property is bursting with character.
TYRE
Like all of Lebanon’s coastal cities, Tyre has seen countless passing armies, conquerors, civilizations and eras. Tyre was a prosperous Phoenician city that was responsible for the founding of Mediterranean colonies, such as Carthage and Cadiz. The city’s production of purple dye, coveted by European nobility, made the city a hub of commerce for centuries.
GETTING THERE
Tyre is situated 83km south of Beirut. Follow the highway south from the capital, past Saida, until you reach Tyre. The road is well signposted.
WHAT TO DO The Hippodrome
Tyre’s Hippodrome is a sprawling spectacle of ancient Roman grandeur. The Hippodrome once held up to 40,000 people, who sat around the stadium to cheer on chariot races and possibly even watch gladiator games. The ruins are remarkably well preserved and you can climb up the stadium seating and wander through ancient archways and a Roman street. What’s most impressive about the Hippodrome is not its height but rather how large the complex is. The Hippodrome ruins are the size of numerous football fields, making exploration of the site an adventure in itself. Entrance costs 6,000 LBP and the site is open from 8:30 am until 30 minutes before sunset.
+961 7 740530
Al Mina Ruins
Drive five minutes from the Hippodrome and you’ll arrive at the Al Mina Roman ruins, a series of columns on the seafront. The ruins were constructed in the third century and led down to the now-submerged ancient harbor. Entrance costs 6,000 LBP and the site is open from 8:30 am until 30 minutes before sunset. +961 7 740530
Port and Christian Quarter
Tyre’s old port is truly magical, especially if you wander around at sunset. The picturesque harbor is speckled with fishing boats and the briny smell of the ocean lingers around the seaside area. Located right next to the port, Tyre’s Christian Quarter is undoubtedly the city’s most photographed area. With its cobblestone streets, colorful houses and flowers spilling from the balconies, the Christian Quarter is like Lebanon’s own version of a Greek island but without the crowds.
Traditional Crafts
Surrounded by orange orchards, Les Ateliers de Tyr (lesateliersdetyr.org) is a sustainable development project that aims to preserve the city's ancient crafts. Get involved in activities such as glass blowing and pottery.
Tyre Public Beach
If you are visiting Tyre during the summer months, a trip to the sandy beach is an absolute must. With its stunningly clear blue water, Tyre’s public beach is one of the cleanest in Lebanon.
WHERE TO EAT
Located right on the harbor, Le Phenicien (+961 7 740564) is one of Tyre’s most popular upscale restaurants. Like most restaurants in Tyre, it specializes in fresh seafood and fish, so make sure to take advantage. Though Le Phenicien is on the pricier side, it is well worth it for their great service and tasty food.
Tony, the owner of Restaurant Tony (+961 70 108641), will greet you warmly and fry you up the latest catch. This restaurant has a small but picturesque terrace where you can enjoy your meal while looking out over Tyre’s colorful port.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Easily one of Lebanon’s most charming boutique hotels, Dar Alma (+961 7 740082, daralmatyre.com) is situated in the lovely Christian Quarter, right on the seafront. The hotel exudes a nautical atmosphere, from its blue and white decor to the ocean facing restaurant and private swimming spot. Most impressive of all is the ancient ruin that sits in the ocean right in front of the property. The 14-room EL Boutique Hotel (+961 7 740960) used to be a women’s jail and then became a watchmaker’s shop. Today, it is one of Tyre’s newest and most luxurious boutique properties, boasting a seafront location and spectacular rooftop bar.