Nabatieh
HASBAYA, HEBBARIEH, MARJEYOUN
HASBAYA
Situated at the foot of Mount Hermon, Hasbaya is a breathtaking town promising visitors a glimpse of by-gone years, with its rich tapestry of art, culture and heritage.
GETTING THERE
Hasbaya is approximately a two-hour drive from Beirut. Head south on the main highway towards Tyre and take the Nabatieh highway (signposted) until you reach Hasbaya.
WHAT TO DO
Serail of Hasbaya – Chehabi Castle (Chehabi Citadel)
The centerpiece of culture and antiquity in the town is the long-standing Serail of Hasbaya, also known as the Citadel. Dating back to the Crusader period, the citadel was seized by the prominent Chehabi dynasty in 1170, where their descendants still live today.
The exquisite building consists of three floors above ground and three subterranean levels. Visible on either side of the arched entrance are stone lions, emblematic of the Chehabi family.
While entering the citadel is not permitted, it is still a spectacle worth admiring from the outside.
Roman Temple of Hebbarieh
A lesser-known site in the region is the Roman Temple of Hebarrieh, located at the foot of Mount Hermon. Incredibly, parts of the temple’s walls are still intact, as are the underground crypts, which date back to the AD 1.
Sabek Soap Factory
Run by the hospitable Sabek family in their residence, the soap factory in Hasbaya is definitely worth seeing. Visitors will have the opportunity to witness traditional soap making carried out using conventional methods. Call Melhem Sabek (+961 7 550217) to arrange a visit.
WHERE TO EAT
If you’re looking to satisfy a sweet tooth,
Très Jolie Pâtisserie (+961 7 551166) is a must. Its exceptional take on the traditional knefe, known as the Hisbayan
knefe, is most certainly something you should try before leaving.
Nestled in lush greenery with the mesmerizing sound of the Hasbani River, enjoy a Lebanese lunch at Fawar Al Hasbani
(+961 3 297586). Serving traditional fare since 1966, the restaurant has an extensive menu, which includes fresh Hasbani fish and local arak. Be sure to call in advance to check that it’s open.
Located on the banks of the Hasbani
River, Al Bohsasa (+961 7 553000) serves authentic Lebanese cuisine in an aweinspiring location. Enjoy picturesque views of the water as you feast on delicious mezze, served with true southern hospitality.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Ideal for those seeking relaxation, the Al
Kalaa Resort (+961 3 460303) offers guests beautiful chalets in the heart of nature. Bordering the Hasbani River, the resort is a great retreat for solo travelers or families. The Hasbaya Village Club (+961 3 780580) provides luxury accommodation with fully furnished chalets offering scenic views of the surrounding area.
HEBBARIEH
Located at the foot of Mount Hermon, the southern village of Hebbarieh has been synonymous with resistance for centuries.
GETTING THERE
From Beirut, take the Saida highway to Nabatieh, then head towards Qlayaa, Hasbaya and Fardis before entering Hebbarieh.
WHAT TO DO Watch Towers
From the early days, Hebbarieh has been surrounded by watch towers that made it hard for invaders to enter the village.
The remains of these fortifications are still visible today. Canaanites, Hebrews and Ottomans were aware of the village’s strategic location and each tried to conquer it; the first recorded attempt dates back to 2000 BC. Historically, these towers have played a crucial role in defense. They were used as a means of communication between fighters, who sent signals through fires as the enemy approached.
Renovations
Hebbarieh is not a popular destination among tourists, but the municipality has set out on a mission to change that and increase the flow of visitors to this southern village. As a first step, they have planted 2,000 trees in order to create a nature reserve to attract campers and hikers. At the site, visitors can find various trees, including pines and oaks in addition to olive trees. Hebbarieh is also home to the third oldest olive tree in Lebanon, which dates back to the 13th century; the two oldest are located in Hasbaya and Ebl el-saqi.
The Roman temple Baal-gad, one of the oldest in the Middle East, is the most important archaeological site in the village. Almost 2,000 years old, the temple – along with the observation towers – has been renovated by the municipality. The renovation helped attract tourists and build a reputation for the village as a cultural destination.
Mosques
Tourists also come to Hebbarieh for religious purposes, mainly to visit two old mosques — Al Nasser Salaheddine and Qassem Abou Ali.
El Khan Souk
Constructed in the 17th century, Khan Hasbaya was built on an international road linking Egypt to Palestine. El Khan has welcomed travelers and merchants, as well as pilgrims, craftsmen, geographers and even soldiers, who have used it for lodging during their journeys.
Located a few meters away from the old site, the market helps to preserve the gathering and trading traditions. The market takes place every Tuesday.
WHERE TO EAT
The village is bursting with small-scale cafés and eateries. Wherever you choose to eat, make sure to try their special southern kebbe, known as kebbe jnoubiyeh.
WHERE TO SLEEP
The village itself doesn’t have any hotels or guesthouses, but there are many places in Hasbaya (see Hasbaya mini guide).
MARJEYOUN
Perched on a leafy hill and dotted with charming well-preserved heritage homes, Marjeyoun is the undisputed jewel of the South. Its strategic location, facing Mount Hermon to the east and overlooking Mount Amel to the west, affords stunning sceneries of the lush surroundings. The town owes its name, “meadow of the spring,” to a large number of water sources, which make the area exceptionally fertile.
GETTING THERE
Marjeyoun is located 90km south of Beirut. Take the highway out of Beirut towards Saida, continue to Nabatiyeh then go through Kfar Tebnite, near Qlayaa, and you’ll eventually reach Marjeyoun.
WHAT TO DO Qlayaa Monastery
This is the place where monks once practiced their asceticism. The old monastery of Saint Anne is now in ruins but still worth a visit for the panoramic views of Marjeyoun.
Beaufort Castle
The 1,000-year-old Crusader fortress situated in nearby Nabatiyeh is not to be missed. The Phoenicians, Babylonians, Assyrians, Romans and Crusaders have all commanded posts at some point in time. Walking through its entire labyrinth of passages, narrow staircases, terraces and countless rooms over several floors can take you well over an hour. There is also a reception room for visitors to read about its fascinating history and restoration work carried out in recent years. It is open daily from 8 am until 7:30 pm.
Ebl El Saqi Nature Reserve
Take a languid walk and admire the thousand-year-old olive trees and the majestic pine tree forests of this natural reserve area (219 hectares), which is home to globally threatened species and serves as a habitat for migratory birds, such as raptors and various species of soaring birds. This green patch, which is also ideal for hiking is between Marjeyoun village and Hasbaya, west of the Hasbani River.
Hill of Marjeyoun
This is an archeological site located two kilometres north of Marjeyoun in El Marj. It dates back to the Neolithic era (12,000 years) at least. The inhabitants of that period were skilled in pottery and farming, and today, one can witness ancient tombs.
The Souk
Take a walk through the cobblestone market square, which has served as the town center since Ottoman times. You will also find many well-preserved heritage homes scattered around this picturesque town reflecting traditional Lebanese architecture: large central living rooms, arcades and traditional tiles.
You can go on a discovery tour of Marjeyoun using the interactive map developed by the Marjeyoun Heritage Preservation Program.
WHERE TO EAT
Rached Restaurant (+961 7 830544) is a cozy café that offers great sandwiches and a variety of popular dishes.
Open on Saturdays, Shawarma Wissam (+961 70 961580) is a small kiosk on Marjeyoun Boulevard serving the amazing shawarma sandwiches.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Located a 10-minute drive from Marjeyoun,
Hotel Dana (danahotel.com) is ideal for families; it has two swimming pools, a basketball court, a large garden and several restaurants. Alternatively, stay at Sol Laguna (sollaguna. org), a cozy hotel with a pool and a garden.