Mount Lebanon
AIN DARA, AMCHIT, BAAKLINE, BAROUK, BASKINTA, BEITEDDINE, BRUMMANA, BYBLOS, DEIR EL QAMAR, GHAZIR, JOUNIEH, KFOUR, MTEIN, QARTABA
AIN DARA
If you appreciate the rugged terrain and nature walks within Lebanon’s majestic forests, you must visit Ain Dara in the district of Aley. This charming village, which is 30km away from Beirut, is located on a southward facing slope overlooking the pine forests of the Safa Valley and is also close to the cedar forests of Mount Barouk. Known for its abundance of springs, Ain Dara has an altitude of 1,300m, which gives it relatively cool summers and colder winters with heavy snowfall.
GETTING THERE
Take the Beirut-damascus Highway towards Bekaa. Once in Bhamdoun, continue to Hammana, then onto Ain Dara.
WHAT TO DO
Places of Worship
A predominantly Christian village, Ain Dara also includes a Druze community. Today, it has five churches and a Druze sanctuary for Sheikh Badereddine El-enderi, one of the first spiritual leaders of the community. If you appreciate ancient holy sites then make sure you see the beautiful Saint George Maronite Church, which was built in 1890. You can also go to the nearby Saint George Orthodox Church, another architectural gem.
Historical Sites
A number of historical sites can be visited on foot from El Okeilli Square to Qoubat Al Sitt. There’s an underground tunnel reaching the center of the village, just next to the summer residence of Emir Bachir III, where a stone facade still stands. You can continue your walk to the nearby village of Tayroush, where you’ll find Aramaic rock inscriptions in addition to remains of an ancient temple, several pillars, a basin and other relics.
Natural Sites
Take a walk through the bountiful majestic pine forests of Ain Dara. There are plenty of apple and cherry orchards nestled along the mountainsides and in the valleys. So, while in season you can go fruit picking and buy directly from the village farmers.
Walking in this area, you will also come across quite a few springs: Ain Barakeh,
Ain Al Tarcha, Ain Majed, Ain Al-kakbi, Ain Al-tamam, Hafr Al Tannour, Bahsasa, Ain Al Bustan, Ain Al Hammam and Ain Al Wosta.
WHERE TO EAT
Abu Joseph (+961 5 220097) serves hamburgers and excellent chicken and soujok sandwiches.
Snack Chocotel (+961 3 931241) is a child-friendly eatery with a broad variety of sandwiches and desserts.
WHERE TO STAY
The charming Vibes Guest House (+961 3 237391) provides wooden bungalows over three floors with sweeping views of the Cedars Biosphere Forests.
If you prefer to rough it in nature, stay at
Raven (+961 3 021403), a nicely arranged campsite nestled between pine trees and a river. The place even has its own vegetable garden and is equipped with a kitchen.
AMCHIT
Renowned for its clear waters and glittering waves, the coastal town of Amchit is a haven of wonder and beauty. The winding alleyways form a dizzying labyrinth before ending to reveal the deep blue sea that will truly mesmerize you.
GETTING THERE
Amchit is situated around 40km north of Beirut. Take the highway out of the capital towards Byblos. The exit to Amchit is located shortly after Byblos.
WHAT TO DO
Zakhia House & Wehbe Residence
Surrounded by trees from around the world, Zakhia House first impresses with the size of its enclosed inner courtyard. Inside, beautiful wooden beams and multicolored stained glass windows give a sacred appearance to the building.
A stone’s throw away from Zakhia House is the Wehbe Residence, another jewel of Amchit. On the first floor, visitors can discover frescoes painted on the ceiling of the main room that blend both Baroque and Ottoman styles.
Church of Sayde
In the Church of Sayde neighborhood, houses built by the Lahoud family offer unexpected treasures. The residence of former general Fares Lahoud, based on Ottoman plans for one of the famed villas at Yildiz Palace, is distinguished by its eightcorner pillars. Further along, the residence of former ambassador Nazih Lahoud is an extremely well-preserved building that is vibrant and elegant.
Corniche
Take a walk or cycle along the corniche and admire Beirut’s skyline in the distance. The seafront promenade of Amchit will remind you how wonderful it is to be by the sea.
WHERE TO EAT
With a prominent location on the seashore,
Babel Bahr (+961 9 620888) offers a menu of fresh seafood and Lebanese cuisine.
Offering an amazing coastal view and an even better ambience, Casino Mhanna sur
Mer (+961 9 621777) serves up beautifully presented dishes bursting with rich flavors.
Samket Amchit (+961 9 622767) has friendly staff and offers freshly prepared seafood straight from the grill. If you’re passing by and don’t have time for a sit-down meal, they also serve excellent sandwiches. WHERE TO STAY
Nestled at the end of a maze of small streets, the famous campsite Camping Les
Colombes (+961 9 622401) is an excellent choice for travelers. The campsite has been recently renovated and provides guests with the option of sleeping in tents or cottages. There is also a swimming pool.
BAAKLINE
The capital of Mount Lebanon until the early 17th century, Baakline is a mountainous oasis of tranquility known for its blue waterfalls. From a tour of the magical Al Hamadeh Palace to a traditional Lebanese lunch at the restaurant overlooking a waterfall, a visit to breathtakingly beautiful Baakline promises an unforgettable experience.
GETTING THERE
From Beirut, take the highway south towards Saida. Exit at Beiteddine and turn right into Kfarhim village, towards Kfarhim cave. After Deir Dourit, continue to follow the road until you reach Baakline. Alternatively, continue to Beiteddine and head towards the left in order to reach Baakline.
WHAT TO DO
Al Hamadeh Palace
You’ll be transported back in time as you enter Al Hamadeh Palace, for on its walls unfolds the story of Baakline. The first stone of this exquisite palace, which boasts a mixture of architectural influences, was set in 1604. You’ll be amazed as you move from one room to the next admiring delicate objects and artworks. To arrange a visit, contact Talaat Hamadeh (+961 71 585058).
Chouf Craft Museum & Baakline National Library
At the top of the village you will find the Chouf Craft Museum. Be prepared to be dazzled by a group of women, whose expertise in embroidery, lace, weaving and cross stitching is matched by their warmth. Furthermore, don’t forget to visit the Old Serail, which is now the Baakline National Library — the largest in the country according to its director.
Hiking in Horsh Baakline Reserve
For a change of scenery, do not hesitate to move away from the center and experience a local nature reserve. A few minutes’ drive away, in a steep valley, Horsh Baakline offers several enchanting paths with dreamy names, which are as pleasant as they are enriching. Contact the municipality
(+961 5 300528).
Waterfalls
A number of falls punctuate the Baakline River. The most idyllic corners are now home to many restaurants perfect for an afternoon lunch. Alternatively, you can find a picnic spot and simply enjoy the view.
WHERE TO EAT
A 15-minute drive will take you to many great restaurants that offer scrumptious
Lebanese lunches along the Baakline River, including Challalat Al Zarka (+961 3 560301), Al Tahouna (+961 3 212066) and
New Garbatella (+961 5 301411). There are also several small restaurants and places to get snacks in the center of the village.
WHERE TO SLEEP
There are no hotels in Baakline, although several old houses are being renovated to become hostels. Lodging options are available nearby in Deir El Qamar and Beiteddine.
Only a 10-minute drive from Baakline,
Bkerzay (+961 3 512020) is the perfect place to take a break from urban life. The project features traditional Lebanese stone architecture that blends into the landscape. Interiors are furnished with vintage pieces in an effort to reduce waste and celebrate rustic design. There is also a spa and an outdoor swimming pool.
For more adventurous nature lovers, there is a fully equipped, pet-friendly campsite called
Campobar Baakline (+961 76 004666).
It is located just a few minutes away from Baakline River.
BAROUK
An oasis of greenery and waterfalls, Barouk is a village steeped in history. Its beautiful landscapes and relaxed atmosphere have made it a popular year-round destination for locals and tourists.
GETTING THERE
Take the Beirut-damascus Highway towards Aley. Follow the road to Mdeirej, and then onto Ain Dara. Continue towards Nabeh Es Safa, Ain Zhalta, and keep going until you reach Barouk.
WHAT TO DO Barouk Cedar Forest
The cedar reserve is one of the largest in Lebanon. This protected area is ever popular among lovers of the outdoors. It is also believed wood from this ancient forest was used in the construction of the biblical Temple of Solomon. For more information about the reserve, visit shoufcedar.org.
Rachid Nakhle Information and Cultural Center
Dedicated to the writing and works of the great poet and writer best known for creating the Lebanese National Anthem, the Rachid Nakhle Information and Cultural
Center offers visitors insight into a precious piece of Lebanon’s cultural heritage.
Local history
Those looking to explore local history won’t be disappointed. There are mills, grape presses and bridges dating back to the Ottoman and even Roman eras. In addition, there are local shops selling traditional mouneh and handicrafts.
WHERE TO EAT
Overlooking the beautiful Barouk Cedar Reserve, Baytna Restaurant (+961 3 841456) is a 200-year-old house where you can taste the best tabbouleh and hot mezze served in traditional fekhar pots.
Offering delicious Lebanese food in a cozy setting, Sama Al Barouk (+961 71 373991) has a great variety of light bites to suit all palates.
With a welcoming atmosphere and excellent service, Al Mamlaka (+961 3 865143) is a popular spot serving local fare.
WHERE TO SLEEP
The Barouk Palace Hotel (+961 5 240251/2), located over 1,000m above sea level, boasts a captivating view and a great range of facilities. Guests can take advantage of guided walks from the property as well as a whole host of on-site activities.
La Maison des Sources (+961 70 140658, lamaisondessources.com) is an 11-room guesthouse boasting a 200-year history. Located a short car ride away in the neighboring village of Ain Zhalta, guests staying at La Maison des Sources can look forward to an authentic experience in addition to traditional, wholesome food prepared using mostly local ingredients.
BASKINTA
It is not surprising that Baskinta means “house of serenity” in Syriac. Visitors quickly feel at peace and at home in this charming village just by contemplating the old stone buildings scattered among the oaks, and the soothing landscapes of apple and cherry orchards.
GETTING THERE
The village is located 45km outside Beirut at an altitude of 1,250m above sea level. It is possible to reach Baskinta by taking the road through Antelias, Bikfaya and Bteghrine, or the route passing through Kfardebian and Bqaatouta. Alternatively, head onto Nahr El Mott and take the Metn Express Highway towards Baabdat, then to Dhour Choueir. The signs will lead you to Baskinta.
WHAT TO DO Mymoune
Baskinta is famous for its slightly tart apples. Discover regional products at
Mymoune, a family-run factory located in the village of Ain El Qabou, just five minutes from Baskinta. The factory offers guided tours for those interested in the manufacturing of preserves, jams, syrups and other delicacies. For more information, visit mymoune.com.
Mar Sassine
There are over 20 convents and churches in Baskinta, making it an important destination for religious tourism. One of its most wellknown convents is Mar Sassine, which was built around 1729.
The Cross of Bakish
On the highest peak of Qanat Bakish, which can be visited after Baskinta, stands "The Cross of All People". The cross is made of
170 tons of imported iron from France and is over 70m high. It is illuminated by 1,800 projectors. This site overlooks a breathtaking landscape, especially at sunset.
Cultural trail
There is a nine-kilometer hiking route that passes through the most important cultural sites of the village, starting at a memorial garden dedicated to Mikhail Neaimy. The trail ends at the house of writer Suleiman Kettaneh, who lived in Baskinta from 1965 to 2004.
WHERE TO EAT
As hidden gems in Baskinta go, Krikor
Bakery (+961 4 280293) is one of the most precious. Run out of an old mountain house, the husband and wife owners take their time producing the best manouche in the area.
Expect a Viking theme at Valhalla LB (+961 81 331138). This place boasts an awesome view and great burgers.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Overlooking the Baskinta Valley in Sannine, the Monte Sannine Hotel (+961 4 251122) offers comfortable accommodation. Guests can also enjoy authentic Lebanese cuisine in the restaurant, which has a large balcony commanding a sweeping view of the surrounding mountains.
BEITEDDINE
Located deep within the Shouf region, Beiteddine is one of the country’s national treasures. Take a trip and immerse yourself in the natural and historical beauty this incredible village has to offer.
GETTING THERE
Follow the southern coastal highway towards Saida. Just before Damour, exit the highway towards Beiteddine, and follow the signs.
WHAT TO DO Beiteddine Palace
Just 20 minutes from Deir El Qamar, sits Beiteddine Palace, one of Lebanon’s Ottoman treasures. The palace offers a stunning and well-preserved example of 19th century architecture. Walking through the palace complex, visitors will immediately notice the wealth and detail of its construction. Each room features mosaic stonework, cedar wood engraving and spacious areas.
+961 5 500077
Moussa Castle
Moussa Castle is indubitably one of Lebanon’s most unique and eccentric sights, thanks in large part to the fascinating story of its builder. Moussa Maamari erected the Moussa Castle completely by hand in an attempt to win over his childhood sweetheart. The castle looks like something taken straight out of a children’s fairy-tale, with a moat, turrets, and battlements.
What’s even more fascinating is the structure’s interior, which holds life-like puppets depicting traditional Lebanese scenes. There are statues of bakers, families, and school children all dressed in oldfashioned garb from Moussa’s childhood. Each scene offers a fascinating insight into the daily life of the Shouf Region before modernity. The tour of Moussa Castle ends with an impressive display of over 30,000 artifacts, from weapons to jewelry, that Moussa spent his life’s revenue collecting. +961 5 500106, moussacastle.com
Shouf Cedar Reserve
The Shouf Cedar Reserve holds over 20 percent of the country’s cedar trees, some of which date back 2,000 years. Hike in the forest or rent a mountain bike from the Shouf Biosphere Reserve at the entrance and cycle along the trail. +961 5 350250, shoufcedar.org
WHERE TO EAT
For upscale dining in a beautiful palace, head to Mir Amin Palace (+961 5 501315, miraminpalace.com). This complex, which looks out over the Beiteddine Palace and surrounding mountains, was the residence of the youngest son of Emir Bashir II Chehab. Today, the palace is a gorgeous hotel and restaurant.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Five minutes from Beiteddine sits Bouyouti
(+961 3 310200, bouyouti.com), an elegant guesthouse perfect for a luxurious overnight stay in the Shouf. Bouyouti is a cluster of upscale houses, combining ample space with a warm and elegant atmosphere.
BRUMMANA
Nestled on a hillside of the Metn district, Brummana has long been the favorite summer destination for visitors and locals alike thanks to its cool mountain air. Known as “the city of flowers," it is rich with colorful bouquets that adorn traditional houses. It is also the green lung of the region, with thousands of majestic pine trees lining its pretty streets.
GETTING THERE
There are two ways to reach Brummana. From Dora, one can take the Metn Express Highway to Jouret al-ballout which leads to Brummana. The other option is from Mkalles going up to Mansouriye, Ain Saade, Beit Mery and leading to Brummana.
WHAT TO DO Ferme Mar Chaya
Brummana is well known for Deir Mar
Chaya, the Maronite monastery which was established in 1700 by the Maronite Patriarch Gabriel Blouzani and is the principal home of the Antonine Order. Next to this monastery is a lovely farm open to the public. It is also a great place to take young children on weekends, as it has a petting zoo with goats, sheep, llamas, cows and other animals. There is also an organic store selling a wide range of produce grown at the farm along with dishes prepared by the resident monks. While there, stock up on baladi cheese, labneh, pickles, orange blossom water and other local delicacies. The farm is open daily from 8 am until 8 pm (+961 70 158466).
Hiking and Scenic Walks
Brummana offers a fantastic range of paths for those who love walking in nature.
One can also stroll around the scenic streets of the old Brummana district and admire the traditional Levantine limestone houses, some dating back to the 18th and 19th century from the reign of the Abillama Emirs.
Al Bustan Festival
From around mid-february each year, a wonderful series of concerts are held in nearby Beit Mery, mostly at the Al Bustan Hotel. The festival is structured around a theme and the rich program includes operas, symphonic, chamber and choral music, oriental music, dance and theater. The upcoming festival, scheduled to be from February 18 until March 22, will pay tribute to Ludwig van Beethoven with 18 live performances. Visit albustanfestival.com for more information.
Lazarus Monastery and Church of Saint Isaiah
The Lazarus Monastery is another notable holy site in Brummana, which was once used by Emir Abilama. Today, most of it is closed off to the public, but you can still see the large two-level courtyard with the cloisters that lead from it. Further down the road you’ll find the 16th-century Church of Saint
Isaiah. Your landmark will be a gigantic oak tree which locals claim is 1,500 years old.
WHERE TO EAT
There is no shortage of dining options in Brummana. For traditional Lebanese mezze in a grand setting you can’t go wrong with
Mounir (+961 4 873900), Burj El Hamam
(+961 4 960058) or Kasr Fakhreddine
(+961 4 960407). Another timeless favorite is La Gargote (+961 4 960096), a cozy French bistro.
For more mainstream restaurants and pubs, head to Broumana Villa, where you’ll be spoiled for choice.
WHERE TO STAY
Grand Hills Hotel (+961 4 868888, grandhillsvillage.com) made it into the Guinness Book of World Records for having the largest suite in the world. The hotel also has a lovely spa and several fine dining restaurants.
Conveniently located in the heart of the town, the Printania Palace Hotel (+961 4 862000, printania.com) is one of the most famous hotels in the region. Besides its impeccable service, the hotel has a gorgeous garden, a pool and an outdoor restaurant.
With pretty views over the mountains, Le
Crillon (+961 4 865555, lecrillon.com) is a comfortable and affordable three-star hotel with modern facilities.
BYBLOS
Located just an hour’s drive away from Beirut, Byblos is a popular touristic destination among those looking to escape the chaos of Beirut.
GETTING THERE
Take the northbound road from Beirut past Jounieh and follow the signs to Byblos, "Jbeil" in Arabic.
WHAT TO DO Bittersweet History
Like many of Lebanon’s coastal destinations, Byblos has witnessed the onslaught of Lebanon’s conquering armies, from the Phoenicians to the Greeks to the Crusaders. Luckily, these great civilizations left relics of their conquest behind, and ruins from ancient times abound in Byblos.
Byblos is believed to be one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world, and some scholars even say that writing was invented in ancient Byblos. Layers of civilization are literally piled on top of one another in this expansive archaeological site. There is a Persian fortress from the 5th century BC, a Crusader castle, medieval city walls, and an Obelisk temple that dates back to the times of the ancient Egyptians.
Byblos Port
The port of Byblos is a collage of pastels and deep blues. Fishing boats speckle the harbor and the deep blue of the sea mirrors the bright sky above. You can enjoy a simple walk along the port, or stop by one of the many cafés and restaurants lining the seafront for a coffee while you admire the incredible view.
Old Souk
A wander around the old souk is essential, particularly if you’re looking for local handicrafts. Refer to page 80 for more information.
WHERE TO EAT
Pepe’s Byblos Fishing Club (+961 9 540213) has been a popular restaurant for fresh seafood since 1962. Its walls are lined with pictures of Hollywood celebrities, who once made up Pepe’s clientele. Enjoy a seat on the terrace as you feast on a delicious selection of Lebanese dishes.
Serving fusion-style cuisine and specializing in redesigning famous traditional Lebanese and international dishes, Locanda a la
Granda (+961 9 944333) occupies a prime spot in the old souk.
WHERE TO STAY
The cozy, family-run L’hôtel de Mon Père
(+961 9 795996) offers boutique-style accommodation. The hotel has 17 rooms and is a short drive from the historic sites of Byblos.
Perfectly situated within walking distance from the Byblos ruins, Byblos Sur Mer (+961 9 548000, byblossurmer.com) is a hotel that breathes romance and tranquility, with artisanal touches like plush oriental carpets, locally embroidered wall hangings and cabinet handles crafted from seashells.
From é l’hôtel (+961 9 545888, eddesands. com) you can stroll in the historical old souk of Byblos, walk along the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, or enjoy the beautiful Edde Sands resort, where you’ll find a fabulous spa.
DEIR EL QAMAR
Deir El Qamar is perhaps the most famous village of the Shouf region. Having played an important historical role as the seat of the Emirs, it’s an ideal place to spend time in nature and see Lebanon’s past firsthand.
GETTING THERE
Follow the southern coastal highway towards Saida. Just before Damour, exit the highway towards Deir El Qamar and follow the signs.
WHAT TO DO Main Square
With red-tiled roofs, winding streets and traditional stone houses, the village of Deir El Qamar (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) epitomizes idyllic mountain charm. It also highlights the religious diversity in Lebanon, with a mosque, a church and a synagogue all taking residence in its main square.
Enjoy a stroll around the village, starting in the historic main square, where jousting tournaments took place during the Crusades. End your visit by wandering through the small markets, where you can find all sorts of trinkets and souvenirs.
Shouf Cedar Reserve
The Shouf Cedar Reserve holds over 20 percent of the country’s cedar trees, some of which date back 2,000 years. Hike in the forest or rent a mountain bike from the Shouf Biosphere Reserve at the entrance and cycle along the trail. shoufcedar.org
Marie Baz Wax Museum
Located in a 16th-century palace built by the Emir Fakhreddine, this museum brings together wax figurines depicting some of the most well-known people of local, regional and international history.
+961 5 511666
WHERE TO EAT
Located in a sunny courtyard facing Deir El Qamar’s main square, Al-midane (+961 3 763768) specializes in Lebanese mezze and local food. Decorated in a traditional style, the restaurant lends itself perfectly to an extended lunch.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Surrounded by vegetable gardens and colorful terraces, Beit El Qamar (+961 3 661411, beitalqamar.com) is an adorable little hotel that will make you feel right at home in the Shouf. Their locally sourced breakfast overlooking the Shouf mountains is worth a visit alone.
Featuring a central courtyard and 11 spacious rooms, Deir Al Oumara (+961 5 511557, deiraloumara.com) is a stunning example of Ottoman architecture and the perfect boutique hotel for an overnight stay.
Spread over juxtaposed terraces overlooking the green mountains of Shouf, BEYT El Jabal
(+961 70 954057) consists of eight rooms and a pretty garden.
GHAZIR
Located at the end of Jounieh Bay, Ghazir is a town with a seemingly slender silhouette, its feet dipping in the waters of the Mediterranean Sea.
GETTING THERE
From Beirut, take the highway towards the North. Once you pass Jounieh, you will see a large sign showing the exit towards Ghazir.
WHAT TO DO Ghazir Waterfront
At the lower edge of the town, the Ghazir waterfront is one of the few locations in the area that is still wild, given the bushes and vegetation that line the stone beaches on the seashore. For centuries, this part of the coastline has been guarded by a bridge — one of the last remnants of the maritime road built by the Romans to link Egypt to this region. Visitors who wish to enjoy the view can simply sit at a table at one of the panoramic restaurants overlooking the coast.
Maronite Seminary
Next to the municipality building you’ll find the Maronite seminary, a grouping of old buildings which were once a convent, a Jesuit seminary and an orphanage. The building, originally a castle constructed by the Chehab emirs, has lived numerous lifetimes. In the seminary’s courtyard, two very tall cypress trees – the symbol of the Chehabs – can be found. It was during the Chehabi era that the old part of the village was developed, including the peaceful, traditional souk, with its myriad shops.
Chateau Musar
Enjoy an afternoon of wine tasting at Chateau Musar (chateaumusar.com), which is known for its award-winning wines. Explore the magnificent cellars of this celebrated winery with Fadia, who’ll happily explain the harvesting and wine-making processes with great enthusiasm.
WHERE TO EAT
Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, Seif
El Bahr (+961 9 850005) is a welcoming Lebanese restaurant serving tasty food.
No trip to Ghazir is complete without passing by Awad Ice Cream (+961 78 831318). Located just before the Ghazir exit on the highway, this is the place for traditional Arabic ice cream — even in the coldest of winters.
WHERE TO STAY
Nestled in the heart of the village, Beit
Wadih Guesthouse (+961 76 377155) is a traditional guesthouse that provides the intimacy of a private villa merged with the comfort of a boutique hotel. The rooms are decorated with furniture and pieces that were passed down through the generations, giving each one its own unique flavor.
JOUNIEH
Just a half-hour drive from Beirut, the city of Jounieh is a great getaway for a day trip or an action-packed weekend escape.
GETTING THERE
Follow the highway northbound out of Beirut towards Tripoli until you see signs for Jounieh.
WHAT TO DO
The Teleferique and Harissa (Our Lady of Lebanon)
The Jounieh Teleferique (teleferiquelb. com) is one of the city’s main destinations and the country’s most well-run tourist attraction. Enjoy an exciting and slightly nerve-racking cable car ride up to take in some incredible views. After the nine-minute ride, the Teleferique pops you out on top of Harissa, where a well-maintained park lines the walkway to the magnificent Our Lady of Lebanon statue. You don’t have to be a religious tourist to appreciate the beauty of this statue, which stands arms open above the stunning bay of Jounieh.
Jeita Grotto
It goes without saying that the Jeita Grotto (jeitagrotto.com) is an absolute must while in Lebanon. Millions of years of subterranean movement have produced an absolutely breathtaking underground cave system that can be enjoyed by visitors. With an entrance fee of around 18,000 LBP, the upper and lower grottos take approximately two hours to explore on foot and by boat. The site is closed on Mondays.
Paragliding
For some high-octane fun, try paragliding over the bay of Jounieh. There are a number of paragliding specialists in Jounieh who will take you for an exhilarating ride in the sky. Contact Club Thermique (+961 3 933359), Paragliding Jounieh (+961 70 403100) or Paragliding Exit to Nature (+961 3 559992).
WHERE TO EAT
Al Sultan Brahim (+961 9 853753) guarantees diners a picturesque location right on the bay, with an award-winning design and exquisite seafood menu.
Occupying a slightly elevated spot with majestic views of the sea, La Crêperie (+961 71 202022) is the perfect place to enjoy French cuisine in plush surroundings.
Punta Del Este (+961 9 830788/76 933466) is a popular restaurant specializing in Argentinian cuisine. Tasty items on the menu include empanadas, tuna tartar and burgers, making this place great for a date, or a night out with friends.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Though the BURJ on BAY Hotel (+961 9 857555, burjonbay.com) is 10 minutes north of Jounieh’s main hub, it is well worth the detour. This luxury property features a gym, a pool and awesome views of the bay from every room.
KFOUR
The idyllic village of Kfour is nestled on the side of the mountains overlooking the bay of Jounieh. The village is often referred to as an amphitheater because it offers a view of almost 180 degrees of the coast. It is highly coveted by tourists and nature lovers alike due to the shimmering color palette of its enchanting landscape, the highlight of which is the “source” trail.
GETTING THERE
Head north out of Beirut and fork at Maameltein to Kfarhbab. Continue on the Ghazir - Jdeidet Ghazir - Kfour Road.
WHAT TO DO Hiking the source trail
Named after the five sources of drinking water in the Kfour valley, the source trail is known as the hidden gem of Kfour. The springs feed a rich flora of pines, oaks, cedars, olive trees and fruit trees, which create a heavenly scent. The streams gushing generously through the rocks contribute to the ambient coolness. The 4.5km trail welcomes hikers in a peaceful setting that respects the rich heritage of its surroundings.
The Three Churches
Another distinctive feature of Kfour are its three stunning churches: Saint Charbel, Saint George and Saint Marie de l'enchif. The Saint Charbel Church is the oldest in the village, founded on the ruins of a pagan temple.
It is characterized, like the church Saint Marie de l'enchif, by its white stones, its purity and its modesty. In the center of
Kfour stands the Church of Saint George, which is being restored.
Ras El Knissé
On the highest peak of Kfour, a gigantic cross is perched. Called "Ras El Knissé," this site overlooks a divine landscape. Nature lovers come to contemplate a rather impressive phenomenon: an intense fog in full summer camouflaging the bird's-eye view which one normally has of green hills and the bay of Jounieh.
WHERE TO EAT
While most of Kfour’s buildings, relics and churches have changed over time, Abou
Tony (+961 9 780545) still looks the same way it did 30 years ago; and the food is still as delicious as when it first opened. It is famous for its mouthwatering chicken taouk sandwich, among other specialties.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Beit Trad (+961 70 414242, beittrad.com) is an exceptional 19th-century home in Kfour. It is imbued with the kind of magic that gently awakens the senses while soothing the mind. Beit Trad’s most enchanting feature is its outdoor swimming pool: a luscious lagoon in a perfect palazzo.
MTEIN
As one of Mount Lebanon’s oldest villages, Mtein is packed with history, culture and architectural heritage. The pretty village guarantees visitors a unique trip back in time.
GETTING THERE
Mtein is located around 35km from Beirut. Take the Metn Express Highway, passing Baabdat towards Douar, and continue as far as Bologna. Once you have reached Bologna, make a right all the way to Mtein. The road is signposted.
WHAT TO DO Mtein’s Main Square
The Al Lamaayiin Emirs took up residence in Mtein from the 16th century until 1840 and built the five palaces that can still be seen today. The beautiful mix of Arabic and Baroque styles, echoing the architecture of Deir el Qamar, remain signature traits of this village. The square now plays host to a number of festivals and music events throughout the year, such as the annual “3asha Qarawi” prepared by the Association of the Ladies of Mtein. The event hosts Mtein’s youth club and several Lebanese singers.
Mtein Museum of Arts
Launched in 2013, the Mtein Museum of Arts boasts a superb collection of over 60 art pieces donated by Lebanese and non-lebanese artists. The museum was an initiative of the municipality with the people of Mtein to not only restore old spaces and buildings but to also encourage and preserve cultural awareness and celebrate the town’s rich heritage. Visitors can admire the numerous paintings, sculptures and photographs found in what is the first museum of its kind in Lebanon, by contacting the municipality (+961 4 296144).
Old Silk Factories
Originally home to seven factories, Mtein was known for its abundant berry production and silk manufacturing. Today, you can still see the ruins of just one solitary silk factory, which stands just a few steps from the main square.
Outdoor Art
While wandering around the village, you will spot a number of impressive sculptures. The four pieces sculpted by Nabil Helo, Nabil Basbous, Zaven Hadichian and Shukrallah Fattouh are beautiful works of art that decorate the streets of the village and complement its cultural wealth.
Museum of George Khairallah
Mtein is also home to the Museum of George Khairallah, containing 100 works and articles pertaining to the great painter. Khairallah’s works have toured the world, making his museum a must-see for those visiting the village. To visit the museum, call Salim Akl (+961 3 237281).
Wine Tour
Head to Chateau Oumsiyat (+961 4 295621, chateauoumsiyat.com) for some wine tasting and a tour.
WHERE TO EAT
Casino Khairallah (+961 4 296588/3 312288) occupies a prime position on Mtein’s main square and serves traditional Lebanese food. A popular spot for lengthy lunches, the restaurant boasts an enviable view of the mountains facing the village.
Look out for the numerous bakeries dotted around the village, where you can indulge in a delicious manouche straight out of the oven.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Mtein is part of the Lebanon Mountain Trail and has a guesthouse located in the main square. Owned by the Al Qontar family,
Mtein Guesthouse (+961 3 236062) old house offers simple yet comfortable accommodation, and a unique opportunity to experience traditional life in the village.
Offering two cozy bedrooms, Beit Jeddé
(+961 4 296603) is a charming place to stay. It operates as a community center and multi-purpose space, and there's even a small boutique selling traditional mouneh.
QARTABA
Known for its mild climate, religious sites, hills and green valleys, Qartaba is a true mountain idyll. One look and you’ll see why it’s easy to fall for the charm of this serene village.
GETTING THERE
Qartaba is located 58km north of Beirut. It is possible to reach the village via Laqlouq. Take the highway north out of Beirut and head towards Nahr Ibrahim. The road will take you through Aalita, Fatre and Souwane, until you arrive in Qartaba.
WHAT TO DO Churches and Convents
With around a dozen Maronite churches and several chapels dedicated to the Virgin Mary and the saints, Qartaba is a must for those interested in religious tourism. The village is home to Saint Sarkis and Saint Bakhos, considered the first official convent of the Lebanese Maronite Order in the Byblos district.
Blue Wine Tasting
In the neighboring village of Mghayre you’ll find Château Wadih, the only producer of blue wine in the Middle East. Made from white wine, its blue color is drawn from the skin of black grapes by electrophoresis. Take a tour of the winery and enjoy a different kind of wine tasting experience.
+961 76 403407
Hiking
Qartaba’s captivating landscapes provide ample hiking opportunities. Numerous hiking trails meander through wooded areas and fruit orchards exposing pretty red-roofed stone houses along the way. You can join a guided hike with a specialist (see page 92).
WHERE TO EAT
You can find several snack bars and bakeries in the main square, such as the Fornetti sidewalk café (+961 9 407001).
WHERE TO SLEEP Ecovillage Marine’s Jungle
Located along the banks of Nahr Ibrahim near Qartaba, Marine’s Jungle (+961 3 626169) is your quintessential eco-village. The accommodation comprises tents and wooden bungalows that can host up to five people. On site, guests can enjoy a number of fun daytime activities, including basketball, volleyball and table tennis.
Hotel Rivoli
Located near the hospital, this family-run hotel offers simple but comfortable rooms with private bathrooms in a traditional house. There is also a restaurant serving breakfast.
+961 3 731032/9 405002
Jannati
If camping is more your thing, this campsite offers a truly eye-opening experience with outstanding views to help you disconnect from everyday life.
+961 71 558997