Grand Seiko

If there’s one thing that visiting the Grand Seiko manufacture has taught us, it’s that the Japanese are exceptionally proud of their accomplishments, in a humble way. Take the brand’s Very Fine Adjusted (VFA) movements. They were literally the best chronometers, outpe orming several Swiss makes (the rumoured reason why precision competitions stopped). To celebrate the first mechanical calibre the brand developed for the relaunch of Grand Seiko back in 1998, the VFA standard is back this year on the HiBeat 36000 V.F.A, a 20 piece limited edition platinum-cased watch. The Pilot range from Zenith has been one of the brand’s bestsellers, a tribute to its past as providers of onboard instruments for war planes and subsequently watches for pilots. Over the past years, Zenith has shown a willingness to experiment a li le more with colours and sizing. This year, the brand unveiled the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Extra Special with two new colours, following last year’s popular green edition. Our pick, however, is the blue dialled version with an accompanying blue oily nubuck leather strap with protective rubber lining. With a bronze case, the combination of colours is quite appealing. The edition comes in at a relatively wide 45mm. Men with smaller wrists shouldn’t be too put off though. The curved lugs of the watch help it fit on slimmer wrists. If it’s still too much, Zenith has also introduced a 40mm variation in the same colours and case material without the chronograph complication. The only problem with this is that you’d be without the legendary El Primero movement that sits inside the Type 20 Chronograph Extra Special. Rolex releases are probably the most hyped at every Baselworld. Journalists a empt to predict what might be produced with fans of the brand weighing in. Sure, the Swiss watchmaker is known by just about everybody in the world so it’s no big surprise that it’s the most talked about before and during the fair. This year, the Crown’s biggest piece of news was the new Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi in stainless steel with the brand’s famed Jubilee bracelet fixed to it. While some have tried to justify it as Rolex’s way of making peace with customers and fans who believe that its last GMT-Master II release in white gold was a bit of a stretch from a “spo s watch,” others believe that it’s just the right time for the Pepsi to make a comeback with an update.

We’re agreeing with the la er camp. The updates are aplenty on the piece. A new calibre, the 3285, beats in this GMT-Master II and the Chronergy escapement boasts a 15 per cent gain in power efficiency with 70 hours of power reserve. Add to this the Jubilee bracelet that hasn’t been seen on a Rolex spo s watch since the ’70s, and you’ve a watch that screams “must have”.