VAN ASSCHE’S LAST BOW FOR DIOR HOMME

Dior Homme’s last col­lec­tion by Kris Van Assche is a youth pro­vok­ing one

AugustMan (Malaysia) - - Stylograph - WORDS BY CE­LESTE GOH PHO­TOS BY DIOR HOMME

FOR HIS SWANSONG, the for­mer cre­ative di­rec­tor of Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche ques­tions the du­al­ity of youth and age; with youth, the free­dom to em­body an ideal with reck­less aban­don, whereas with age, a sense of look­ing from the out­side in.

The win­ter 2018/2019 col­lec­tion pro­vokes a con­stant evo­lu­tion of the for­mal and in­for­mal codes that de­fine menswear to­day, through a metic­u­lous de­con­struc­tion of the Dior Homme suit that finds sym­bio­sis with the sym­bol­ism of 90s tat­too cul­ture, as well as pitch­ing the sar­to­rial fi­nesse of the Dior Homme ate­lier against the tenets of ur­ban nos­tal­gia.

Be­fore his very fi­nal bow at the end of the run­way show, fol­low­ing his 10-year ten­ure with the fash­ion house, Van Assche ren­ders homage to the in­tri­cate pat­tern­mak­ing of Mon­sieur Dior: so­phis­ti­cated vari­a­tions on the Bar jacket are a tes­ta­ment to the house ‘savoir-faire’, with tai­lored black grainde-poudre wool, and sculpted suit jack­ets bear­ing slot­ted lapels, patch pock­ets and dou­ble-breasted of­fi­cer’s but­tons.

The spiked tat­too mo­tif emerges as a graphic rave totem buoyed its ex­treme

el­e­gance against a sin­gu­lar heraldic de­vice or an all-over print, whereas stacked pro­por­tions are aug­mented through high pleated trousers in suit­ing wools or washed denim worn be­neath cropped ny­lon parkas, duf­fel coats, rugged shear­lings, and tech­ni­cal wind­cheaters.

In pal­ettes of for­est green, crim­son, and safety yel­low, the trompe l’oeil lay­er­ing of clas­sic knit polo shirts, tank tops and turtle­neck sweaters, cre­ate ironic com­po­si­tions of a teenage wardrobe, jux­ta­posed with struc­tured trench and over­coat shapes in bonded cash­mere.

The sea­son’s theme is mir­rored upon the new Dior combo bag that clips to­gether as mul­ti­ple zipped com­part­ments on a crossshoul­der strap, as well as ex­otic lug­gage with an op­u­lent cor­po­rate flair. Fi­nally, the footwear range in­cludes laser-printed tat­too brogues and can­vas hi-tops, ground­ing the sil­hou­ette’s street-ver­sus-sar­to­rial axis, re­flect­ing the eter­nal call-and-re­peat of youth and man­hood. AM

“BE­FORE HIS VERY FI­NAL BOW AT THE END OF THE RUN­WAY SHOW, VAN ASSCHE REN­DERS HOMAGE TO THE IN­TRI­CATE PAT­TERN­MAK­ING OF MON­SIEUR DIOR”

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