We discover Siem Reap beyond the sacred temples with Mr & Mrs Smith through Belmond La Résidence d’Angkor
Discovering Siem Reap beyond the sacred temples with Mr & Mrs Smith
IF YOU’RE NOT all that into history... ancient or recent, nor care to check out the locations where an old Lara Croft movie was filmed, is there still reason to go back to Siem Reap? Plenty.
It’s a commercially exciting time in Cambodia, when investments are pouring in to cities like Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville. While development in Siem Reap is curtailed by regulations ‒ because it is a Unesco World Heritage site and you don’t want a steel and concrete jungle to sprout here ‒ it doesn’t lag behind the country’s capital or emerging Vegas in terms of vibrancy and culture. If fact, the opposite is true. Siem Reap is the cultural soul of Cambodia.
I began my new sojourn in Siem Reap at the classically chic Belmond La Résidence d’Angkor, one of the properties in the Mr &
Mrs Smith collections. Mr & Mrs Smith, as you may have heard, is the outstanding boutiquehotel booking service, specialising in the world’s “sexiest” hotel stays and the Belmond property is on its handpicked list of just around 1,000 luxury hotels across the world. Booking you in isn’t all it does. You get round the clock service from its team of travel specialists who are happy to craft bespoke itineraries and unique experiences for you, whatever rocks your boat.
From Aardvark to Art Buff
An indulgent experience was what I got. After the most amazing pampering massage at the Belmond Spa to recover from fatigue, I got dressed and embarked on a mystery dinner safari. I had five courses at five different restaurants around town, scuttling from one to the next in a tuk tuk in the cool of the evening. And just like that line from Dusty Springfield’s ‘Spooky’, everything did get to feel kind of groovy, especially at the last stop, Miss Wong Cocktail Bar.
I must say Belmond’s dinner safari is an altogether brilliant way to experience some of the best dining in Siem Reap when you don’t have a lot of time but want a real taste of Cambodian cuisine. Mind you, it might include some rather exotic ingredients. Try ants, which featured as a garnish on one of my starters, and snail, rendered into a paste that tasted like marinated olive. I washed it all down with a good Cambodian red.
One of the must-do things while in town is the art tour with Robina Hanley (www. siemreaparttours.com). Art buff or not, you will love this excursion with Robina because it gives you an exclusive insight into the local art, artisan and design scene. I actually felt sad when it ended, in the same way that you feel wistful after you’ve turned the last page of a really good book. She brought me to meet some of the top creatives who are shaping up
“MY TAKEAWAY FROM THEAM’S HOUSE IS A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF THE CAMBODIAN SOUL. THE ARTIST’S LOVE FOR HIS COUNTRY IS PALPABLE IN ALL HIS WORK”
the art scene in Siem Reap. Two highlights were visiting Christian Develter and Peter Smits at their home and art studio, and getting a tour of returned Cambodian architect, artist and designer Lim Muy Theam’s house.
It was Develter’s stunning paintings that I’d seen hanging in the lobby of Belmond La Residence d’Angkor, the inspiration for which came from the intricately tattooed faces of Chin women. In Singapore, Develter is represented by The Frame Society, but more than just seeing his work, it was the tour of his home and hearing his stories that made the morning fascinating.
My takeaway from Theam’s House is a better understanding of the Cambodian soul. Theam and his family were refugees from Pol Pot’s rule of terror and found asylum in France. But he eventually returned and began rebuilding from Cambodia’s rich art and cultural legacy. I’m not sure how others see it but, to me, his love for his country was palpable in every corner of his gallery.
Paradise Circus In Temple Town
From Belmond I moved to Phum Baitang the next day for a different feel of Siem Reap. This property by Zannier lies farther out in the country and recreates the feel of a Cambodian farm estate, complete with rice fields, buffalos, toads and crickets. I effectively felt a calm envelop me when the car pulled into the driveway.
The villa was spacious and decorated with a rustic elegance pervaded by a dreamy languor. It’s an environment that invites one to relax. After all, everything is taken care of and all there is to do is enjoy the delicious food from its kitchen, plunge into its moon-shaped pool and lounge on plump daybeds in the cool of your verandah. I felt so relaxed I cancelled a market ramble and cooking class. I’m sure I would have been amazed by what I’d learn, but it was a little ambitious to try to squeeze so much into a short trip.
I miraculously managed to tear myself away from the dreamy villa to go see Phare, The Cambodian Circus, performed by disadvantaged youth who’ve been given a chance to learn arts and skills. It’s like a Cirque du Soleil production minus the elaborate costumes and sets. What it lacked in glamour though, it made up for with heart. Its performances bear themes that reflect Camobian beliefs and ways of life. After the show, I wandered outside the tent and found a boutique offering merchandise crafted by the youth and even an area to try doing some of the tricks I’d seen earlier. It was a totally fun and meaningful evening.
There’s no denying Siem Reap is temple town. It emerged as ruins were unearthed by archaeologists. In fact, minor shrines completely reclaimed by vegetation are still being discovered via modern satellite technology. They all tell stories of great kings, ancient geometrical wizardry, heavenly maidens and epic battles. Thus on my final morning there, I felt I had to visit Angkor Wat again, to be reminded of the splendour of a bygone empire. AM