From the lush greenery, to the pristine beachside overlooking the sunset, luxe travellers have these villas to choose from to unwind in Bali
We never tire of Bali, well, because there are always be er ways to do it
AMANDARI
Last year, when luxury hotel group Aman conceived a 22-day private jet expedition across its most stunning properties in nine countries, on an extravagantly refitted Airbus ACJ 319 no less, I hyperventilated.
For me, this was the stuff of pure fantasy or really deep pockets, which I do not have. The only dream I dare harbour is to perhaps visit one Aman property at a time, maybe over 22 years. Let’s see. I’ve stayed at Amankora in Bhutan and Amanpulo in the Philippines, and dropped in on Amantaka in Laos. Two more were ticked off recently: Amandari and Amankila, both in Bali.
Authentic Window To Ubud
Ubud is the heart of Bali. Don’t believe anything else you may have heard. It doesn’t offer the dramatic cliffs, beaches, surfs or reefs, but here in the uplands of the
Island of the Gods is where its cultural and spiritual pulses originate.
No doubt, tourism and economics have left their unromantic mark, and a few inns and eateries I’d loved 15 years ago have either disappeared or succumbed to mass banality. But a number of entities have succeeded in preserving the true essence of Bali. Amandari is one. The resort is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year with a slew of special events.
Integrated With The Community
Designed like a traditional Balinese village, its villas offer sweeping views of the Ayung valley. Amandari is so well integrated into its
setting that it feels as if it has always been there. A rich verdant moss dapples its walls and paths, verifying its established presence and adding to its Balinese mystique.
In the afternoon, the laughter of little girls can be heard from the direction of the Lotus Pond. They are children from the Kamasan village who attend classical dance classes at the resort. Guests are welcome to watch if they happen to be staying in to enjoy the pool rather than join in the activities and excursions that the concierge organises.
A Spiritual Experience
There is much to do for anyone from culture vulture to adrenalin junkie. Not in the mood for white water rafting, I joined a tour to see the market and trek through rice fields on the first day. At 7am, the pasar was a colourful hive of activity as locals go about their business of living. This wound up by around 10 o’clock, when they typically disappear back into their homes to let the tourists take over the streets.
Before sunrise the next day, I set out to see Pura Mengening, one of Bali’s water purification temples. I was presented ceremonial clothes to put on, but I soon realised it wasn’t for the novelty of looking Balinese in photographs. Luh Manis, a bona fide Jero Priestess, took me on an immersive experience as part of Amandari’s cultural programmes. I decided to embrace the cleansing waters and symbolically wash away all heavy memories. It felt liberating.
More details at www.aman.com/resorts/amandari
AMANKILA
You can tell a lot about a resort from its welcome drink. This usually takes the form of a colourful cordial in a glass that is often adorned with an indigenous flower. I didn’t get one on arrival at Amankila; it wasn’t something I craved for anyway. After I was shown to my villa ‒ which was fabulous ‒ it arrived after all. Only, it defied expectation.
On a linen-lined tray, a glass bearing a scoop of sorbet and the contents of a passionfruit stood next to a flask covered with beads of condensation. The liquid effervesced as I poured it into the glass. Very curious by now, I drank it. The flavour of ginger beer mingled with the lemongrass sorbet and passionfruit was divine. And it set the tone for my entire stay. The thought and savoir-faire that went into creating that delicious drink permeated everything at Amankila, from the amenities to the meals.
A Sense Of Place
It helps that the resort is located in the east of the island, away from the party crowds of Kuta and Legian. Draped on a hill that slopes on to a black sand beach, it sits across a strait from Lombok and makes a good base for snorkelling and diving. The concierge organises cruises for guests to discover the rich marine biodiversity of the surrounding waters, which is great as I’d grab any opportunity to frolic with fishes. Tours to nearby temples and villages are also organised for the chance to see local life, heritage craft and religious practices.
On the first evening, after a mojito at the