JAEGERLECOULTRE
Since its launch in 1992, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control collection has been defined by technical rigour and stylistic restraint. In 2020, the watch manufacturer draws inspiration from the classic round watches from the 1950s, such as the Futurematic, PowerMatic and Memovox models, and adds a dash of 21st-century flair, designed for the urban sophisticate.
With its 40mm diameter, outwardly sloping bezel and dynamically curved lugs, the new Master Control case exudes a relaxed and understated elegance. Satin-brushing on the case-sides is complemented by the polished bezel, crowns and lugs. Refined details abound, including bas-relief engravings on the back bezel and a sapphire crystal case-back to reveal the finely finished and decorated movements.
On the dials, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have reinterpreted the Maison’s classical codes in a streamlined and modern style, in order to highlight each model’s complications. The applied indexes add refinement, their elongated triangular shape echoed by the Dauphine hands. Uniting the collection, sunray brushing animates the silvery-white background colour, a blue central seconds hand adds a subtle pop of colour and, according to the model, blued subdial hands further accentuate the complications.
The versatility of the new collection is underlined by the choice of two case materials ‒ steel and Le Grand Rose gold. Seen for the first time in the new Master Control line, the new pink gold alloy has a remarkable sheen and depth of colour. The addition of palladium to the metal’s proprietary formula (the exact details of which remain a closely guarded secret) guards against oxidation and ensures that the radiant colour will not fade over the years.
The straps, too, have been re-worked. To complement the timeless elegance of the steel cases, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have chosen the soft, matt finish of Novonappa calf leather in tan. Produced by the finest tannery in France, through a vegetable-based tanning process that retains the natural variations of the hides, Novonappa gains a distinctive patina over time. Thanks to a Presto Spring lug attachment and
a simple clip for removing and refitting the deployant buckle, the Novonappa straps can be quickly changed, without the need for any tool. Classical alligator leather in black or chocolate brown lends a more formal allure to the Le Grand Rose gold cases.
With the goal of improving reliability, power reserve and long-term performance, JaegerLeCoultre’s engineers have comprehensively revised and re-engineered Calibre 899, the high-performing pillar of the Master Control collection. The improvements, which have been incorporated into the entire range of Master Control calibres, include a silicon escapement, a redesigned barrel and various energy-saving enhancements.
The relaunch of Master Control is not simply a stylistic exercise. The engineers have comprehensively revised and updated all of the movements, increasing power reserves to as much as 70 hours and enhancing overall performance and reliability. Like all JaegerLeCoultre timepieces, the Master Control watches carry an 8-year warranty in addition to the 1,000 Hours Control certification.
With its cool, silvery-white colour palette, minimalistic design and refined details, the Master Control Date anchors the new collection. Thanks to its slim movement, the 40mm steel case is just 8.78mm thick. The latest-generation Calibre 899 features a new escapement and pallets: reconstructed in a slightly modified shape, they are made of silicon to minimise friction and thus consume less energy. The central-seconds wheel has been redesigned to eliminate shaking; the fixing screws of the oscillating wheel are made of highly resistant titanium, rather than steel; and new oils, specifically formulated for the new materials, have been used. In order to increase the power reserve to 70 hours, the barrel was redesigned to accommodate a stronger and longer mainspring without increasing the 3.3mm height of the movement.
The headline model of the new Master Control collection features a newly developed movement, Calibre 759, which combines a chronograph with a triple calendar display and a moon-phase. Brought together for the first time in a Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece, this alliance of complications evokes the ancient links between watchmaking and astronomy.
The new movement features a column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch, a moonphase indicator, and a 65-hour power reserve. With a balanced dial layout that combines the familiarity of two classical complications ‒ a triple calendar and a bi-compax chronograph ‒ the designers have made the reading of the displays straightforward and intuitive, despite the complexity of the information shown. The 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock is balanced by the running seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, while the day and month windows in the top part of dial are balanced by the moonphase and date indicator at 6 o’clock. The entire display is anchored by the central chronograph seconds hand and contained by the pulsometric scale marked around the dial flange. Complementing the Chronograph Calendar’s timeless style, rectangular chronograph pushers add a purposeful, modern air to the wellproportioned 12.05mm thick case, offered in steel or Le Grand Rose gold.