DECONSTRUCTED TAILORING
The joy of work, together with the beauty of its utility and refinement is at the heart of the latest dunhill collection. At a time when meaning and emotional investment matters more than ever for maker and wearer. Di sp os ability has given way to timelessness, craft and tradition; brought to the point of today by Weston and dunhill. Here, they are amplified and appreciated, infused with an ease that is almost subversive.
A view akin to that of Richard Roger’s architecture, the secrets of traditional construction are exposed and celebrated, their utility becoming a new form of elegance, the inside shown on the outside. This re contextual is in go ff ab ric sand formal techniques, of knowing the rules and to know how to break them, is a testament to the skills of the dunhill tailoring workshop at Bourdon House and the foundations of dunhill.
In the collection, chest canvas and shoulder canvas, foundational fabrics that are usually reserved for internal reinforcements, become prized for their purity and naturalness and used as a focus rather than an aside. Linen Holland, glazed linen is most often found strengthening and building pockets are featured throughout. There is a notion of the amplification of craft and of these materials in their own right, combined with more traditional luxury fabrications such as tumbled satins and super-fine bonded leathers. A stratification of history is presented through the motif of layering in the collection, a very British route from traditional pomp to something more pop. Here, fluidity and construction meet with precision to emanate raw-edged ease, finding form in an evolution of the pegged trouser, voluminous wrap jacket, and waterproof silk outerwear, all amplified from earlier dunhill collections and finding their most elegant iteration here.