The perfect guide in building an effective and ideal skincare routine
Breaking down today’s lengthy skincare routines at the molecular level to build an effective and ideal skincare routine
SINCE IT TAKES a month to necessarily build a new habit and it takes a minimum of 30 days to truly, albeit minorly see the effects of a new skincare product or routine̶ What are the ingredients or “chemicals” should we be actively choosing to put on our faces everyday and why? What are the methods of building an effective skincare routine for you, catered to your skin type, concerns and goals?
Bear in mind that skincare can only reach so deep, being applied topically onto the skin. Moreover, a balanced diet, water intake and physical activeness will equally aid in seeing true or greater results from any skincare routine. [For anyone who took an interest in their secondary education specifically on the subject of Chemistry, here’s an instance of its real-world application.]
Through the rise of the Korean 7 to 9 step skincare routine, skincare videos being shared on social platforms by the average joe, celebrities and specialists alike, it seems a complete skincare routine typically consists of the following:
• Cleanser (single or double-cleansing)
• Toner
• Actives & Serums
• Moisturiser
• Oils (generally recommended at night for normal - oily skin, the exception for severely dry skin during the day) Sunscreen SPF (only during the day)
•
IDENTIFYING SKIN TYPE, CONCERNS AND GOALS
Firstly is understanding your skin type, be it straightforward or a combination, whether it is normal, dry, oily, acne-prone, sensitive, and or dehydrated.
Skin Types:
• Normal
• Dry / Flakey • Oily • Acne-prone
• Sensitive
• Dehydrated
• Combination (one or more of the above)
IDENTIFYING & UNDERSTANDING YOUR SKIN GOALS AND CONCERNS
Aside from generally protecting, nourishing
“TONER CAN ALSO BE A QUICK HIT OF HYDRATION FOR YOUR SKIN OR AN ADDED STAGE TO CLEAR AWAY ANY SURFACE DEAD SKIN CELLS TO
REVEAL A FRESH LAYER OF SKIN AFTER THE CLEANSING PROCESS”
and hydrating the skin’s natural barrier, depending on your skin type, you’ll surely have a set idea of what you’re looking to achieve from your personalised skincare routine:
• Oil/sebum control
• Acne control and reduction
• Clearing up hyperpigmentation: acne scars, melasma, sun and age spots, etc]
• Combating constant or excessive dehydration
• Clearing or minimising the appearance of large pores, blackheads and whiteheads • Preventing fine lines and wrinkles
• Dry and flaky skin
• Smoothing out heavily textured and uneven skin
• Uneven skin tone
• Combination or etc
Cleanser (single or double-cleansing)
After a long day of mask-wearing and daily activities, cleansing̶ be it singular, doublecleansing or oil cleansing is a great way to clear the skin from the impurities, dirt and oils sitting on the surface of the skin.
Double cleansing is as simple as it sounds. It involves thoroughly washing your face with two cleansers beginning with an oil-based cleanser, followed by a water-based one. However, it’s possible to double cleanse with two regular water-based cleansers if oils aren’t right for you.
Water-Based cleansers VS. Oil-Based cleanser
Terms to differentiate and identify cleansers: Hydrophilic ̶ meaning water-loving and
Hydrophobic ̶ meaning water-hating but oil-loving. Typically there’s waterbased cleansers, oil-based cleansers and combination of the two ̶ Micellar water, for instance, comprises of micelles with a hydrophobic tail and a hydrophilic head.
Water-based cleansers are used to remove water-based impurities like sweat and dirt after your oil cleanser removes oil-based impurities like makeup and sunscreen. Water cleansers come in three main forms: Foaming cleansers, gel cleansers, and cleansing waters. Watersoluble particles, such as dirt and pollution, emulsify in the lather of the surfactant and rinses off the skin. This, however, may rinse or strip away the natural oils if the formulation includes stronger surfactants.
Whereas oil-based cleansers or oil cleansing either in a balm consistency or liquid respectively is a popular deep cleansing method which utilises the oils in the cleanser which bind to surface impurities by drawing out dirt without clogging pores or stripping the skin of its natural oils and essential moisture.
Since ‘like attracts like’ oil is perfect for removing dirt, grime, pollution, makeup and sunscreen.
Toner
Historically known as tonic water, the toner stage of the skincare routine has two main purposes: to rebalance the skin’s pH or
pondus hydrogenii (potential of hydrogen or skin’s acidity) after cleansing and prepare the skin to absorb the following products that’ll be applied. Toner can also be a quick hit of hydration or an added stage to clear away any surface dead skin cells to reveal a fresh layer of skin after cleansing.
Toner helps to restore your skin’s pH level and sweeps away impurities and leftover dead skin cells.
BENEFITS OF TONING:
• Can shrink the appearace of large pores
• Clears impurities and leftover dead skin
• Restores skin’s pH balance (ideally between a pH of 4 - 5.75; slightly acidic) Preps the skin to absorb the other products better.
AHAs, BHAs and PHAs should only be applied at night and, a moisturiser and sunscreen should be worn the following day to protect the fresh layer of skin
AHA, BHA & PHA
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) and PHAs (Poly Hydroxy Acids) are chemical exfoliants which are tasked to remove surface impurities, dead skin cells to encourage an even cell turnover and gently exfoliate the skin by reaching into the deeper layers of the skin compared to physical exfoliants or scrubs.
AHAs break down the top layer of the skin that holds you dead skin cells. It is used in anti-ageing skincare and to improve skin texture and elasticity. BHAs goes deep through the oil that clogs pores and dissolves the sebum that contributes to acne. It clears blackheads, whiteheads and acne. PHAs gently removes dead skin cells to allow your skin to appear smoother and appear move even in tone. It is used for irritation, redness and improves hydration throught the skin.
Actives & Serums
The most personalised section in one’s skincare routine with the widest range and abundance in the skincare market.
The choice of serum(s) and actives are determined by targeting one’s personal skin concerns and goals.
Moisturisers
Moisturisers come in varying textures from creams, gels to lotions and ointments, designed to hydrate the skin and retain moisture (water).
The dermis layer of the skin, below the epidermis, holds natural oils, moisture and lipids as blood vessels only deliver water up to this layer. The stratum corneum, the layer of the skin that lies on the very top of the dermis is naturally kept moistened by our body’s fat such as fatty acids, ceramides, cholesterols and corneocytes.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF MOISTURISERS:
• HUMECTANTS
Helps encourage young cells to the surface of the skin and reduce flakiness and dry skin. Types of humectants: glycerin (from fat/ sugars), hyaluronic acid, urea and lactic acid.
• EMOLLIENTS
Travels deep into the skin to soften, protect and helps fill the cracks / seal in water to provide moisture to the complexion. Types of emollients: jojoba oil, cetyl alcohol(from coconuts), vitamin E and squalane.
• OCCLUSIVES
Forms a barrier that water can’t penetrate and entraps moisture under the skin. Types of occlusives: lanolin, beeswax, mineral oil, shea butter, dimethicone (silicone) and petrolatum.
WHAT WE’RE PREVENTING OR TRYING TO REDUCE?
This is all in the act to prevent significant Transepidermal Water Loss or TEWL. A process of water being released and evaporated into the air. By not moisturising, the skin’s barrier crumbles due to the fatty links breaking and leaves the skin dehydrated (loss of moisture).
The choice in a moisturiser will depend on skin type. Coming in a variety of textures, the easiest way to recognise will be based on consistency from light to thick. Generally, there are gels, lotions, creams and ointments.
Picking the best moisturiser for your skin type ‒ oily skin or dry skin. For oily skin, look for a moisturiser that is oil-free, noncomedogenic and has a lightweight or gel type texture. Gel moisturisers absorb quickly without leaving a greasy feeling or clogging the pores. Thicker creams can also be suitable during cold and drier climates for oily skin.
For dry skin, look for moisturisers that are thick, whipped or creamy in texture. Cream moisturisers will keep the skin hydrated for a longer period of time and will help with the dry patches and flakiness on the skin. Added ingredients like plant seed or botanical oils, ceramides and omega fatty acids are especially great as they provide extra nourishment that your skin needs.
People with normal or combination skin type should opt for lotion or gel formula moisturisers with hyaluronic acid and glycerin for optimum result. Dry skin types should use cream formulas moisturisers with mineral, urea and oleic acid ingredients. Cream or balm formulas with hyaluronic acid and allantoin are perfect for people with sensitive skin. And lastly oily skin types should go for gel formulas, ingredients to look out for in their moisturisers are hyaluronic acid and glycerin.
Oils
Our skin naturally produces oil as a barrier to prevent further TEWL from our skin in the form of sebum. For those with extremely dry skin, the addition of hydrators or oils would act as a great protective barrier to ensure surface hydration due to the skin’s inability to producing enough oils to hydrate the skin.
Oily skinned individuals, on the other hand, might think that clearly they’re produce an excessive amount of oils and can be excluded from including oils into their routine̶ On the contrary, using oils with a similar molecular structure to our natural oils such as jojoba oil and rosehip seed oil can instead regulate the overproduction of oils. By applying these oils at the end of one’s routine after moisturiser, the skin recognises its presence as natural oils and signals to the brain that there is enough oil present and halts production of the sebaceous glands.
Sunscreen (SPF)
Sun protection is crucial especially living in Malaysia, the equatorial region ensures consistent and direct sunshine and heat year-round.
TYPES OF UV RAYS & BLUE LIGHT
Sun rays consist of UVA and UVB rays, a simple way to differentiate the two is A̶ for Aging and B̶for Burn. UVA rays can penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin to inflict and damage the melanin cells by encouraging the build-up of melanocytes. The ageing rays can cause the release of chemicals that can damage the DNA, inducing immediate skin darkening and pigmentation. UVB on the other hand causes sun burns and long term skin darking. It also increases risk of skin cancer.
In the height of widespread devices and screens, there’s a growing concern over the emission of blue light and what effect it’ll pose on the skin in the long-term.
WHAT IS SPF RATING AND PA+?
SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor and the number beside it indicates how well the sunscreen protects skin against sunburn. PA+ means your sunscreen or cosmetic provides some protection against UVA rays.
When it comes to selecting the SPF rating of sunscreen you typically can’t go wrong with an SPF 50 and PA++++.
“THE SPOTLIGHT INGREDIENT IN MOST MOISTURISERS IS HYALURONIC ACID. IT ATTRACTS AND HOLDS ON TO MOISTURE IN SKIN CELLS, WHICH ALLOWS SKIN TO FEEL MORE HYDRATED AND PLUMP”
MYTH BUSTER
Deeper complexions don’t have to apply sunscreen. This is a completely false notion.