Jil Sander makes an epic comeback with the Uniqlo +J S/S2021 collection
Jil Sander captures the lightness and energy of spring with the Uniqlo +J spring/ summer 2021 collection
CONTINUING LAST SEASON’S popular return of Uniqlo’s collaboration with legendary designer Jil Sander, who brings her signature modern style to this exceptional line for women and men, the +J spring/summer 2021 collection captures the sense of emerging from the darkness of winter and enjoying the energy and lightness of spring. Reduced to their purest form, sharp silhouettes display an airy clarity.
“The overall idea is sophistication,” commented Jil Sander. “A kind of purity that lets us think of regeneration and a fresh start.” Controlled sculptural tailoring emphasises movement, lightness, and space. Thoughtful design infuses essential pieces with versatility and practicality for life outdoors. A selection of natural fibers and comfortable blends defines effortless styles with luxurious texture and sheen. Colours reflect the chromatic palette of northern lights, with the indigo and ink of summer night skies in cool contrast to ivory, caramel, grey and khaki.
Exceptional tailoring also distinguishes the men’s lineup. An oversized hooded long coat with a pale grey texture displays carefully sculpted 3D volume, while a classic polo is defined by a crisp fit. Authentic selvedge denim jeans exhibit a cool, straight silhouette.
In the following interview with Uniqlo, the minimalist designer, fondly known as “Queen of Less”, elaborates on the +J SS21 collection.
+J returned after 11 years in November 2020 to much fanfare from the global market. How did this positive reaction make you feel?
Even though I didn’t design for a while, I always felt in touch with my customer. To see that my intuition had been right, was a great joy. The positive response to the +J collection meant to me that I am in touch with the zeitgeist and the aesthetics of the moment.
What made you decide to continue +J in 2021 with a spring/summer collection?
Of course, the customers’ great interest, despite the Covid-19 restrictions, was very motivating. I had the impression that +J is well adapted to the new normal, an emerging atmosphere of understatement and concentration.
Does the “new normal” have an influence on the +J idea of a global uniform?
We may be less mobile for a while, but we are all together in this global crisis. It is important to express our awareness of this new sober and more attentive situation. The notion of a global uniform emphasizes the importance of the individual. It relates to clothes that dignify and underline the personal energy, since we must solve the problems together in mutual good faith.
What is the best part of collaborating with Uniqlo?
The collaboration with Uniqlo enables me to design high quality modern fashion with a democratic price tag. I am still excited about Uniqlo’s worldwide reach and the range of very diverse people I can reach with my ideas. I believe in “Quality For All”.
Please tell us about your inspiration for this season’s theme, The Energy and Lightness of Spring.
We all went through an uneasy, stressful period. But now, we see light at the end of the tunnel. This spring has a special message for us. The earth is coming to life again, and we need this positivity of nature to give us hope and optimism. I was quite emotional in the conception of this collection, I wanted lightweight, multi-purpose clothing to accompany us out of seclusion and to make us feel ready for fresh ventures into the manifold world. And I looked for interesting new materials which connect us to the future.
Ivory, greys, caramel and khaki are some of the new +J key colours this season alongside such basic colors as black, white, and navy. How did you come up with this colour story?
I experimented a lot, since the effect of colours depends on the textures you use. As I start collections with fabrics, colour decisions go right along with this first phase of design. I don’t want to repeat myself, so I am always on the look-out for new shades and chromatic solutions. I also think in terms of a whole collection and strive for a colour story that allows for multiple combinations, almost in a painterly way. And since +J has a wide range of customers from all over the world, I take the different complexions of mankind into consideration.
What are the key pieces that we should look out for?
Maybe, I would point to the boyfriend version of our selvedge jeans. All the jeans from this quality cotton material could become collector’s pieces. I look for idealizing shapes in my design. They allow for a more gender-independent interpretation. For most pieces of the +J winter season’s collection, I was pleased to learn that female customers bought men’s items and vice-versa. There is also a lightweight and light dry trainer shirt from an absorbent material with a super 3D cut.
You mentioned the versatility of the collection. Could you elaborate?
First, I think of our sculptural polyester silk material with interesting optics. They can be interpreted in a casual or formal way, if you add a touch of jewelry. The same goes for our silk-cotton knits and our cashmere-wool suit.
What advice would you give to customers of the +J spring/summer 2021 collection?
The +J SS21 collection concentrates on light fabrics, conceived with layering in mind.
The combination of individual pieces produces interesting proportions. This free play of combination is an integral part of the collection. AM