Rolex reinforces its long history with the latest release of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer collection
Rolex reinforces its long history of pushing boundaries through exploration as well as commitment to purposeful discovery with the new generation Oyster Perpetual Explorer and Explorer II collections
WITH A LONG-TERM COMMITMENT to pioneering initiatives in exploration, Rolex has built a long history of equipping extraordinary adventures and ground-breaking discoveries. From scaling the Himalayan peaks and crossing the polar ice caps, to probing the ocean depths, Rolex watches have accompanied some of the most challenging adventures of the 20th century. Each of these expeditions presented Rolex with an opportunity to test and improve the reliability and robustness of its watches, turning the world into its very own living laboratory.
As early as the 1930s, Rolex had begun to equip expeditions to the Himalayas in a bid to observe how its watches would behave in the extreme conditions of high altitudes. Between 1933 and 1955, no fewer than 17 expeditions to the world’s highest peaks were equipped with the brand’s watches.
These timepieces witnessed a number of first ascents, starting with that of Everest in 1953 ‒ the world’s highest mountain at 8,848 metres above sea level. It was followed by K2 in 1954, the second highest at 8,611 metres; Kangchenjunga in 1955, the third highest at 8,586 metres; and Makalu the same year, the world’s fifth highest peak at 8,485 metres. After every trip, the climbers gave feedback on how the watches had performed, which enabled the brand to make improvements for future models.
BLAZING THE TRAIL AT THE HIMALAYAS
A young and talented climber from Grindelwald, a village at the foot of the Jungfrau in the Bernese Alps, Annelies Lohner showed remarkable strength of character when she proposed to set up the first Swiss expedition to the Himalayas after the Second
World War. The pioneer of mountaineering managed to persuade the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research to let her lead a team into the Gangotri mountain range, in the Garhwal Himal region of northern India.
In the five months from May to September 1947, the expedition achieved the first ascents of Kedarnath, Satopanth, Kalindi Peak (via the northeast face), Balbala and Nanda Ghunti, and made an exploration of the Chaukhamba massif, a group of summits over 6,000 and 7,000 metres.
To support the project, Rolex gave each team member an Oyster Perpetual watch to wear throughout the climb. These timepieces were with them at every turn and withstood the extreme conditions without ever letting them down. On their return, the climbers reported on the watches’ watertightness, precision and convenience in terms of the movement’s selfwinding system using the Perpetual rotor.
“The Rolex watches that we are each wearing keep surprisingly accurate time. They are very useful and we are delighted with them. The fact that we do not have to wind them is especially appreciated,” wrote André Roch, the expedition guide, from the Gangotri base camp on July 7, 1947. At the 1948 watch fair after the team’s return, Rolex presented a showcase featuring several watches worn on the adventure, set against a decor depicting the summits that had been climbed.
FIRST TO THE TOP
On 29 May 1953, two exceptionally courageous and determined men became the first to set foot at the top of the world’s highest mountain, at 8,848 metres (29,028 feet). For the members of their expedition, they represented the final hope of reaching the summit, as the monsoon snowstorms were expected in the coming days. Fuelled by an extraordinary resolve, New Zealand’s Sir Edmund Hillary, a beekeeper and experienced mountaineer, and Nepal’s Tenzing Norgay entered history by managing to succeed where the numerous previous attempts had failed.
Led by Sir John Hunt, the British expedition team comprised 16 members, but the logistical constraints meant that hundreds of porters would be needed to carry the tons of essential supplies required throughout the trip. This material included sophisticated equipment scrupulously inventoried and ready for use, from specially designed climbing boots to tents tested in wind tunnels. Rolex, too, was part of the adventure, for the expedition material also included Oyster Perpetual watches.
“The Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches, with which members of the British team were equipped, again proved their dependability on Everest,” wrote Sir John on his return. “We were delighted that they kept such accurate time. This ensured that synchronisation of the time between the members of the team was maintained throughout. They performed splendidly, and we have indeed come to look upon Rolex Oysters as an important part of high climbing equipment.”
In honour of this milestone, Rolex launched the Explorer watch in 1953. The Explorer was eventually improved with a reinforced case and a more legible dial for extreme conditions. Later in 1971, in light of its increased involvement with exploration, Rolex launched the Explorer II, featuring a date display, an additional 24-hour hand and a fixed bezel with a 24-hour graduation, enabling the wearer to distinguish hours of the day from those of the night. This was essential for exploration in dark environments ‒ caves, for example ‒ or polar regions that experience six months each of daylight and darkness.
TIME MANAGEMENT: THE KEY TO DEFYING THE LIMITS
Throughout the years, explorers have depended on their watches for accurate time management. Its resistance, precision and legibility must never fail, especially in situations of complete solitude, where there are no visual
reference points, no clear distinction between day and night.
The watch, like its wearer, must be able to stand up to the most inhospitable environments. Rolex has accompanied explorer Erling Kagge in conquering the ‘three extremes’, including crossing Antarctica alone and unassisted; mountaineer Ed Viesturs, who climbed the world’s 14 peaks over
8,000 metres without supplemental oxygen; adventurer Rune Gjeldnes, the first person to cross the Arctic Ocean unsupported, and doctor Christine Janin, who was the first woman to reach the North Pole unaided and without the assistance of dogs, and then scaled the highest peak on every continent.
For Viesturs, his wristwatch is a key part of his equipment as it directly impacts his safety and success. “When climbing, time management is the most significant factor in my success, and ultimately my survival ‒ particularly on the day of the summit ascent,” the Rolex Testimonee explains.
“Each half hour counts. It’s crucial to know at what time I need to be back at my highest camp after attempting the summit. From that I calculate timings for the entire day, including when I need to begin my descent. An early start is critical for climbing during the colder, safer conditions of the day, and allows for more time to deal with delays or anything unexpected.
The descent is the second part of the challenge. I have a rule of turning around by 2 o’clock in the afternoon at the latest, whether or not I have reached the summit. Having time to get down safely with enough daylight and energy is paramount. Some climbers have found themselves in life-threatening situations because they turned back too late. The cold, darkness, fatigue and lack of oxygen can become serious issues.”
On each of his climbs, Viesturs wears an Explorer II with a white dial that he received in 1994. “It has never failed me and includes all the features I need for mountaineering: it’s self-winding, robust, and the hands are easy to read against the dial, even in the dark. A durable crystal is also an advantage as it may hit rock and ice on an ascent. I have to admit it’s probably the most important piece of equipment I have with me. My watch ‒ and the time it tells ‒ is the key to my safety.”
For Gjeldnes, in the vast, white polar landscape, where the sun never sleeps and the notion of time becomes relative, a watch is crucial for him to be able to structure his days and make regular, coordinated progress. Gjeldnes became the first person to cross the entire length of Greenland, the Arctic Ocean and Antarctica following the completion of The Longest March expedition sponsored by Rolex. During his polar expeditions, his Explorer II enables him to follow a crucially important routine.
“Time and punctuality dictate how the entire day is organised: getting up on time, packing up on time, and following the most effective trekking routine, which is 50 minutes skiing and 10 minutes rest. And, at the end of the day, we need to know what time to stop, set up camp and eat ‒ all done as quickly as possible to ensure we get enough rest. During the final 14 days of my solo expedition to the North Pole, I focused my attention on time management and calculating how long I had spent pushing forward on my journey. That was what led me to success,” recalls Gjeldnes.
EXPLORATION WITH A PURPOSE
Human beings have set foot in the furthest reaches of our world. The poles, mountain peaks and depths of the earth no longer seem so inaccessible. Yet, explorers are still exploring. Today, mystery is not what drives them to discover the world; they aim for more than simply going where no one else has been. Theirs is the ambition to better understand our planet and learn about its fragility to be in a better position to protect it.
In 1957, Rolex participated in the International Geophysical Year when, for the first time, scientists from around the world pooled their knowledge to help comprehend our planet. Rolex loaned several watches to the British expedition in charge of establishing a scientific base ‒ the Halley Research Station ‒ in Antarctica and carrying out meteorological observations of the earth, the atmosphere and space.
Shortly before the end of the project, the expedition’s carpenter, Doug Prior, commented, “With regard to the performance of the watch, I honestly could not find a single fault with it. I had hundreds of mortises to cut with a mallet and chisel; so not only did the watch have to contend with the extreme cold temperatures but also with the terrific jarring every time I hit the chisel.”
Volcanologist Haroun Tazieff, biologist Nigel Winser, geologist Francesco Sauro and explorer Alain Hubert number among the adventure scientists that Rolex has supported in the tireless quest to broaden knowledge about the planet in order to preserve it and to give it a future. In 2019, Rolex went further and launched Perpetual Planet, an initiative that supports several projects designed to advance knowledge, improve human well-being and protect the environment.
“A SUPREME EXAMPLE OF ROLEX EXPERTISE IN MECHANICAL WATCHMAKING, THIS MOVEMENT INCORPORATES THE EXCLUSIVE CHRONERGY ESCAPEMENT AND THE BLUE PARACHROM HAIRSPRING, AND OFFERS A POWER RESERVE OF APPROXIMATELY 70 HOURS”
THE NEW-GENERATION OYSTER PERPETUAL EXPLORER & EXPLORER II
The new-generation Explorer deftly combines the prestige of 18ct yellow gold and the strength of Oystersteel in a yellow Rolesor version designed as a tribute to the mountaineers and explorers who marked the 20th century. Its 36mm case, identical to that of the original model released in 1953, is a nod to an era when the world’s highest peaks were still shrouded in mystery and as yet unconquered. At the heart of the new-generation Explorer beats calibre 3230, unveiled in 2020.
A supreme example of Rolex expertise in mechanical watchmaking, this movement incorporates the exclusive Chronergy escapement and the blue Parachrom hairspring, and offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Precise and resistant to shocks, temperature variations and magnetic fields, calibre 3230 is the result of a culture of technical innovation spanning almost a century that is focused on a perpetual quest to improve chronometric performance and robustness.
The new-generation Explorer II comes with an entirely redesigned and re-proportioned case and bracelet as well as an optimised display.
With hour markers and hands standing out in sharp contrast against the white or black lacquer dial, and a 24-hour display via an orange hand and engraved bezel, the Explorer II has been recognised for years by alpinists and explorers as a benchmark timepiece. Its remarkable technical performance has proved invaluable in the extreme conditions that are its calling.
In the latest iteration, the Chromalight hands and hour markers are covered or coated with an exclusive, optimised luminescent material that offers a longer lasting intensity of glow in the darkness. A further notable enhancement is that the Explorer II is now equipped with calibre 3285, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology. Designed as an essential expedition tool, the Explorer II has new advantages that count towards successful missions.