AugustMan (Malaysia)

A HIDDEN GEM

Hidden 13-seater speakeasy restaurant, Hide KL brings a string of hidden surprises in their newly revamped menu

- WORDS BY MELISSA FOONG PHOTOS BY HIDE KL & MELISSA FOONG

IN A HIDDEN NOOK at the Ritz-Carlton Residences KL on Jalan Ampang sits

Hide, a 13-seater speakeasy restaurant of sorts, serving a menu inspired by global gastronomy, as prepared by the very young and talented Shaun Ng. The degustatio­n boasts a 14-course menu, taking you on a journey across the planet.

There’s something about hidden restaurant­s that’s so intriguing, especially when it unlocks doors to beautifull­y curated plates. Behind a wall of painting, lies its entrance to the exclusive Chef’s Table̶a concept created by the local homegrown chef.

As you step foot in the main dining room, seats are placed in a U shape with only 13 seats available. The cuisine itself is hard to pinpoint because of its global influences, from Japan to France to Korea to Brazil; but also of course from cuisines he has picked up along his culinary education. Though some might think he’s trying to incorporat­e one too many cuisines, in Chef Shaun’s words, “Not having an identity would be our identity.”̶or at least that’s how they would like to define themselves.

The newly revamped menu takes you from the ocean to the farm. The menu is a melange of seafood and meat, with a sweet ending lent by an exquisite reimaginat­ion of local desserts, as guests go through in excess of a dozen creations. The culinary team behind Hide is focused on one thing and one thing only̶ flavour. Believing that simplicity is always best, the 14-course meal starts with a Jungle Bird Cocktail Sphere Shot, a jelly of some sort made of pineapple, rum and Campari. Following that, dainty amuse-bouches of ikura and mudcrab; caviar, wagyu and kanpachi; and black truffle and comte encapsulat­e the wide-ranging tastes and flavours diners set to experience throughout the evening.

Inspired by a Brazilian street snack, the black truffle, uni and dadinho are meticulous­ly put together right before you, where fragrance of the forest floor is enmeshed with creaminess and brininess of the ocean to an explosion of contrastin­g flavours. The same train of thoughts can also be discerned on the next dishes ‒ scallop, caviar and dashi; and uni, clam and chawanmush­i.

“A lot of hard work was put into curating this new menu. We wanted to create dishes that are different from the regular Malaysian restaurant­s”, said Executive Chef Shaun Ng

After the opening dishes, expect a lot more protein to head your way. Next in line, the kinmedai, hotaruika and meuniere represents the penultimat­e seafood on the menu, as highlighte­d ingredient­s shift to poultry and cattle in form of hokkigai, geoduck, XO and koshihikar­i; Silver Hill duck, sunchoke and savoy; A5 Miyazaki, entrecote and mustard, which satiate even the most ravenous glutton.

The desserts at Hide hold their own, cleverly moving from refreshing to creamy and then decadently rich. With the aim to feature flavours that bring back childhood memories, the two desserts comprises yam, banana and sweet potato; and kaya, horkasai and coconut. Marrying the best of degustatio­n and substance, anchored by the innumerous ingredient­s brought in from all corners of the globe, as well as sensoriall­y rewarding.

“A LOT OF HARD WORK WAS PUT INTO CURATING THIS NEW MENU. WE WANTED TO CREATE DISHES THAT ARE DIFFERENT FROM THE REGULAR MALAYSIAN RESTAURANT­S” — EXECUTIVE CHEF SHAUN NG

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