SENSE OF DIRECTION
Bell & Ross managing director Fabien de Nonancourt discusses the significance of the BR 03-92 Radiocompass and what has been instrumental in the success of the brand
BELL & ROSS started creating watches inspired by aeronautical and military instruments in 1994. The brand has since become an essential reference in the field of professional aviation watches. Its models draw their inspiration from the design of on-board instruments.
The BR 03-92 Radiocompass, which takes its name from a radionavigation tool, the radio compass, is distinguished by its original coloured hands that guarantee optimal readability. Both modern and fun, this new watch joins the iconic Flight Instruments collection from Bell & Ross. This family, created in 2010, incorporates air navigation tools into horological pieces. The timepieces that make it up are highly successful.
Upon the launch of the Radiocompass, we had the pleasure of finding out more about the watch, the original instrument, and the importance of having a distinct sense of direction and community spirit from Fabien de Nonancourt, managing director of Bell & Ross, accompanied by Mr. Tong Chee Wei, general manager of Bell & Ross Asia.
Please give us a brief introduction on the Flight Instruments collection - how is it distinct from the other main collections under Bell & Ross.
FN: The original square model is a direct inspiration from the dashboard, which was launched in 2005, but it was just a regular watch, or chronograph, or GMT. Then in 2010 we said, “OK, wouldn’t it be nice to take inspiration from the different instruments on the cockpit and create a series of timepieces inspired by the look of those flight instruments?” In the first year, we created BR 01-92 Radar, followed by the Red Radar in 2011. Since then, we’ve introduced one or two new designs into the Flight Instruments collection every year. Sometimes we would even revisit an instrument we have done in the past. Last year, we redesigned the Red Radar that was launched in 2011.
IT WAS THE INSTRUMENT THAT PILOTS DEPENDED ON TO FIND THEIR WAY TO THE AIRPORT BEFORE THE INVENTION OF GPS. IT WAS A KIND OF BEACON SYSTEM THAT EMITTED RADIO WAVES.
What is the function of the radio compass and how does it stand out from the rest of the instruments on the dashboard?
FN: One instrument that particularly stood out this year was the radio compass. It has very specific hands and was created to help the plane find their way. It was the instrument that pilots depended on to find their way to the airport before the invention of GPS. It was a kind of beacon system that emitted radio waves. And this instrument would indicate where the beacon was. For example, if you put the beacon at the airport, the instrument would indicate where to go to reach the beacon. It was especially useful at night because during the day you can at least see the runway, but at night, or if there is fog or rain, then it’s really helpful. So it’s a very old instrument. If I’m not mistaken, it was created in 1926. To create the Radiocompass, you can see that we’ve kept the colourful hands, but since they are not your typical watch hands, people can get confused as to which one is the hour and which the minute. So to make sure there is no confusion, we have put some indications; the “H” points to the hour and the “M” to the minute.
Exactly how many instruments are there on the cockpit dashboard?
FN: There are so many, many instruments and you know, we always thought, “OK, we have done everything.” Yet, we managed to find this instrument (radio compass).
It’s been reported that the Swiss watch industry broke its 2014 record last year – how did Bell & Ross fair, and what’s the secret behind the brand’s success?
FN: Last year, for Bell & Ross, was the best year ever. We see a growing interest in watches, and I think this is probably one of the positive things that has come out of Covid. I believe this is due to a combination of different factors. The first one is that when people were not working, they were at home, so they had more time to spend on the Internet, looking at products of their interest and so on. The other factor is that, because the China market is very big, not only in China but also in many countries, many other brands neglected their domestic markets because they were busy trying to capture the Chinese and thinking, “why waste time on a domestic?” So when the Chinese stopped traveling, they had to redirect their investments to the domestic markets. But for Bell & Ross, I’ve always believed that before you go anywhere, you must be strong domestically first and we have built the brand domestically since day one.
What are your thoughts and outlook on e-commerce versus brickand-mortar retail?
FN: We were one of the first luxury watch brands to do e-commerce, and of course we can see a very strong development during Covid. But now people can also come back to our points of sales and it’s always nice to see them enjoy the shopping experience. For those who love the brand, you want to buy it from a retailer that can tell you a lot about our watches and the brand. Retail outlets are very important for us, too. I mean, you don’t want your contact to be limited to just on the screen and the DHL guy bringing the watch.
What do you love about Bell & Ross and what has kept you aboard since 2010 you joined in 2010?
FN: I love this this brand because there are many things to do. It’s still a is rather young. So there are many opportunities. Also, I like the family size of the company, so the decisionmaking process is very quick because it’s a smaller team. I remember once I was visiting Hong Kong and saw a suitable space for opening a boutique; I just had to make a phone call to Carlos Rosillo (co-founder). We chatted for only a few minutes until he said, “Ok, let’s do it, let’s go.” And we did it. Even though we have a small team, it’s what makes it interesting.
We couldn’t help but notice that behind the brand is a very active community of fans and followers, especially on the Bell & Ross SEA Owners’ Club Facebook page – what role does the community play in the brand?
TCW: We wouldn’t be what we are without the community. We used to do a lot of get-together. They would sit down and talk watches. Customers who owned 10 pieces of Bell & Ross would bring all 10 pieces and lay them out on the table and discuss them.
FN: One of the first things I discovered when I first joined Bell & Ross was a very strong community of fans. In France, we have a fan group who meet regularly. Whenever we do an event, they would come. Before the Covid, we met them
regularly and would invite them to the office, etc. They are very strong ambassadors for us. Not many brands have a strong community like this. And we value their comments too.
TCW: Oh when the fans in Paris knew that we were coming to Paris for a seminar, they actually organised an event and invited all of us there. Even the Japan team joined us, the teams from Paris, Belgium, etc... and everyone kissed the hand of Adelyn Kong (senior marketing communications manager of Bell& Ross Malaysia) because they consider her the first Bell & Ross fan, worldwide. According to them, she inspired them to be what they are today, seriously. She was the first to get the community together.
BR 03-92 RADIOCOMPASS
Bell & Ross is the benchmark brand for aeronautical-inspired watches. In 2022, the house pays homage to air radionavigation instruments - advanced tools that use radio waves to guide jets ‒ by launching the BR 03-92 Radiocompass. This highly technical watch takes the name of the Radio Compass, an onboard radio receiver which defines the position and direction of an aircraft via beacons on the ground. This indispensable navigation tool guides pilots regardless of the visibility. It particularly allows flying at night, in the fog or in the rain.
The unique dial of the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Radiocompass, reproduces the display of the eponymous tool. It reinterprets its hands and its graduations which allow optimal readability under all circumstances. For the display of the BR 03-92 Radiocompass, the Bell & Ross development teams have faithfully reproduced the graphics of the instrument that served as an inspiration.
The matt black dial contrasts with the white graduations arranged in 3 circles. The innermost circle features the hour numerals. The minute indexes follow, and finally the seconds numerals are on the flange. A white triangle at 12 o’clock in Super-LumiNova enables you to find your bearings at night. Little novelty, all the numerals are arranged in a targeted way. Usually, they are placed, but in this timepiece, they are turned towards the centre of the dial as on a navigation instrument.
The numerals adopt isonorm typography, with very legible graphics. This technical and functional typeface is used in the industry. Finally, the dial also houses a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock. Much of the great originality of the BR 03-92 Radiocompass comes from its very unusual hands, which take on the shapes of the hands on the Radio Compass cockpit instrument.
They also adopt three complementary colours. These pop, almost fluorescent shades contrast with the matt black of the dial, allowing for easy and immediate reading of the time while giving a fun appearance to this watch. With its shape and colour, each hand is associated with a time indication: the largest one, in orange with two branches featuring a stylish H, indicates the hour; the very long baton hand, in
yellow and adorned with a stylish M, points to the minute; the thinnest hand, in green, displays the second.
Certain indications on the dial are coated with SuperLuminova. At night, the luminescent indexes take on blue tones, the minutes stand out in green, and the hour hand first turns yellow and then ends its luminescence in green.
The BR 03-92 Radiocompass is in keeping with the spirit of Bell & Ross. Technical, it will seduce aeronautics’ enthusiasts who will appreciate the idea of wearing a watch reminiscent of an aeronautical instrument. The BR 03-92 Radiocompass is produced in a limited edition of 999 pieces.
BR 05 ARTLINE
Created in 2019, the BR 05 is a derivative of the BR 03, Bell & Ross’ watchmaking icon. It uses its general shape, the famous round within the square, inspired by a cockpit instrument. This successful watch forsakes pilots and tarmacs a little to move closer to a more urban universe. The new BR 05 Artline is a variation of the BR 05. It adopts its general shape and in particular its integrated bracelet, with “Artline” being a term that sums up its concept well.
“This name indicates that it incorporates an artistic dimension (art) in its design (line). When you look at it, you immediately think of the American style of the StreamLine,” explains Bruno Belamich, co-founder and creative director of Bell & Ross.
It is a trend in industrial design from the 1930s, with very fluid lines inspired by speed and aerodynamics. In general, Bell & Ross watches follow a rather stripped-down design that goes down to the essentials. This BR 05 Artline, on the contrary, dares to dress up, something quite unusual at Bell & Ross.
“We wanted to launch a watch that is dressed, decorated. The BR 05 had potential. Its case indeed offers a vast surface to decorate,” adds Bruno.
The brand chose to move towards relief engraving or gadroon. This type of graphic and slender ornament is associated with traditional know-how, craftsmanship and luxury. This finish subtly adorns the bezel of the BR 05 Artline. The bezel with rounded corners, made in one single piece, is fixed to the case by means of four screws. Its gadroon decoration also adorns the central links of the bracelet so bringing a rare elegance to these elements.
Its folded metal casing recalls two inspirations: Aero style ‒ the first transport planes of the 1940s were indeed known for their corrugated aluminium fuselage, a technique used for its lightness and resistance to deformation; Urban style ‒ aluminium is widely used in architecture, covering the facades of state-of-the-art buildings, including many towers in La Défense. Interior decoration also takes advantage of this material, which adorns avant-garde lighting and furnishings.
The BR 05 Artline features certain character traits typical of Bell & Ross watches. The hands and indexes are coated with photoluminescent Super-Luminova. This material ensures maximum readability day and night. The display numerals give way to baton indexes, just doubled at 12 o’clock. This sleek and modern exterior brings great distinction to the dial. The date window is positioned at 3 o’clock. This practical function is much thought after by the brand’s clients. The dial is adorned with a sunburst ruthenium grey. This elegant shade, never before used on a BR 05, is the
result of metallisation. This colour contrasts with the steel of the 40 mm case and clearly makes the dial stand out.
Driven by the in-house self-winding BR-CAL 321 calibre, the BR 05 Artline features a sapphire case-back that reveals the oscillating weight in the design of a sports car rim. Limited to just 250 pieces, it is exclusively on sale in Bell & Ross boutiques.