Tatler Dining Malaysia

The Meat of the Matter

Sometimes, when the call of the flesh becomes too much, there’s no point in fighting it. Give in to the dark (meat) side. Just make a reservatio­n at these restaurant­s, drop by and sink your teeth into some irresistib­le meaty marvels!

- BY SONNY LEONG

Toraji Before it was in vogue to savour unusually thick cuts of meat in Japanese food culture, this restaurant started the trend in a humble outlet located in a small backstreet in Ebisu, Tokyo’s Shibuya-ku back in 1995. Their version of yakiniku – broadly translated to mean grilled meat cuisine – quickly built up a reputation and following, and Malaysians today (lucky us) have the pleasure of enjoying the exquisite freshness and flavours of the premium meat cuts that they specialise in, all within a clean and cosy setting in Lot 10’s Isetan Japan store. Meat lovers, be sure not to miss out on the kalbi boneless ribs, extreme prime kalbi, diamond-cut kalbi and the prime loin cuts. For the more adventurou­s tongues amongst you, the Toraji beef tongue or diamondcut beef tongue are exotic cuts that will give a different dimension of taste and texture to your grilled meats repertoire. The diamond-cut meats are a signature of Toraji, prepared like so to help the thick cuts of beef cook better and faster, over a proprietar­y grill and ventilatio­n system that minimises the smokiness arising from the grilling process.

Marble 8 A steak out aficionado’s wet dream come true, if nothing else because of the restaurant’s name that conspicuou­sly forges images of high marbling on sizzling grilled meats. But does it live up to its name? You betcha! From the gourmand steakhouse concept in a prime location downtown of KL, to its prime beef cuts that are sourced directly from the famed Stanbroke Pastoral Properties in Queensland, air-flown here and then dryaged for 21 days in the establishm­ent’s custom-built ageing cellar, it’s clear that no stone is left unturned in producing the best tasting meats. So, what does all that mean, if you’re a group of ravenous, meatstarve­d adults? It means a delicious dryaged tomahawk steak with a marble score of 6 and above that will easily feed you and your offspring. Or, go for something a bit more modest (price- and size-wise) but just as good with the Wagyu sirloin on the bone. It gets the due respect and minimalist treatment from its chefs, as they let the meat speak for itself. On the wet-aged side of the menu, whereby the beef is vacuum-sealed and stored for a minimum of 21 days, the Black Angus filet mignon is an equally delectable choice as the meat is lean, retains its natural juices so that the steak ends up being a succulent and tender experience.

Mandarin Grill This is the place to have a full-on classic steakhouse experience, only up-scaled. Classy interiors, excellent service, an impressive wine list all play off each other seamlessly, to the point that one almost forgets the original purpose one patronises this establishm­ent – for the impeccable steaks! Make no mistake, over and above the ambience of sophistica­tion and propriety lies the heart (meat) of the matter, and it is the enjoyment of grilled meats for which the restaurant is renowned for and named after. Carnivores are sure to have a thrilling time choosing their poison, but if you don’t mind, let us recommend some of their not to be missed meaty heavyweigh­ts. In the red (meat) corner, weighing in at 300 grams (200 grams for tenderloin cut), is the 150- days grain fed Black Angus beef. Seared to a much sought-after char on the outside, the divinely succulent steak packs a mean 1-2 punch combo with its juicy and moist flesh giving way to bites of immaculate tenderness. Over in the blue corner, weighing in at a lean 200 grams is the Norwegian salmon. Grilled to an enticing perfection with its crispy skin encapsulat­ing the moist, flaky tenderness of the flesh, it is a hearty choice that satiates the healthier inclined.

Wagyu @ Lucky Bo If your criteria for a good steak is size (because let’s be honest, the bigger, the better), perfect char, just the right touch of pink, and melt-in-your-mouth tender, then Lucky Bo’s Tomahawk Wagyu steak checks all of the above. The done slab of meat served on a chopping board is simply beautiful to behold – the blackish charred surface over the humongous 1.7kg hunk of meat with a long rib extending from one end just beckons you to dig in already. Succulent and pinkish within, the meat is so tender it literally disintegra­tes in the mouth. And the secret to this meat-ilicious perfection? It’s because their steaks are grilled using a Josper charcoal oven, renowned for producing perfectly cooked meats. Lucky Bo serves other cuts too, including ribeye, striploin and tenderloin, and you get to choose from the Margaret River Wagyu (with a higher marbling grade of 6) or the Sanchoku Wagyu (marbling of 5), though it has to be said that the Tomahawk falls under the Sanchoku Wagyu variety. To enjoy the meat galore, do drop by during dinner, for the lunch menu differs as they focus on homemade comfort foods.

Tujo Bar-sserie & Grill With a tagline of ‘ Eat, Live & Play’, this swanky brasserie is a fun yet stylish place to do just that. 1960s Danishinfl­uenced, the spaces within push sleek simplicity and comfort to the fore and directly evokes a sense of casualness and playfulnes­s to the ambience. And this uncomplica­ted attitude flows over to its meat dishes. They are minimally presented because the highlight is on the meat itself, and rightly so. We implore you to look up Tujo’s Tomahawk, a gloriously huge 1.3kg Sanchoku Wagyu from Australia. Although there’s a wait time of an hour for this king of steaks to arrive at your table, the pause will be totally worth it, more so if the steak is topped with the rich raclette cheese from their new raclette station. Served on a block of wood the size of a chopping board, the char is done just right to seal in the juices and flavours of the meat. Due to its size, it is best shared, unless you have the frame and stomach capacity of a rugby player. A ‘smaller’ alternativ­e, though no less meaty, is Tujo’s 120-days pure Black Angus striploin. Other enticing grilled meats to savour here cover the chicken, lamb and seafood options, and they come with customised rubs and marinades to boot.

Shinmapo A meaty discourse can’t be complete without having the experience of cooking the meat itself before consuming it. Barbecuing or grilling your own meat, whether in the backyard or in the kitchen, has been a favourite past time of Western culture, popularise­d in countless movies and cook shows. Over in our shores, barbecued meats have made upward strides by riding on the Korean wave, with many Korean BBQ outlets sprouting and taking hold. Shinmapo is one of the newer kids on the block, at least here, but has been gaining popularity with Korean food fans as well as hitting the spot with carnivores. And it’s easy to see why, with its myriad cuts of pork spanning the collar, shoulder to belly, marinated or otherwise, deliciousl­y grilled to tender perfection right before your eyes. The anticipato­ry build up via the senses as the meat sizzles and the sear aroma waft through the nostrils is alone worth the ticket price here. The standout cut (and for which Shinmapo has built a reputation on) is the galmaegisa­l, Korean for pork skirt meat. It is a rare, premium cut that’s only found between the ribs and belly of a pig. With a small yield of about 200-250 grams per pig, you can imagine it’s highly prized. And the result is a beautifull­y tender piece of meat with textures and deep flavours that resemble beef rather than pork.

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