ECLIPSE OF THE MOON
From face accessories to statement makeup, readiness to embrace individuality has given way to duality on the runway. By Li Ying Lim.
Chanel Le Vernis Nail Colour in Rouge Noir, RM88
One show, two looks—or more— was the order of the day this season. Most noticeable at the New York City-held Givenchy show, a subdivide of models emerged clad in pearls and lace masks; a faction in metal studs and diamanté face piercings, and another with faces completely stripped of embellishments, with simple breathable skin and beautiful make-up to show. “Ethereal and fierce,” describes beauty guru and backstage perennial Pat McGrath of the two kinds of accessorised faces she created for Givenchy’s Spring/Summer ’16 show. Designed in part to serenade Riccardo Tisci’s love for decals and face accessories, McGrath’s visionary beauties were as she describes them to be—ethereal in the form of white face laces and pearls, fierce in the steeliness of golden appliqués, crystal wreaths, and spiked warrior masks. Held at Ground Zero, where haunting chords of “Ave Maria” played in commemoration of the anniversary of 9/11, the show was, in Tisci’s words, “a celebration ... of different religions and all people.”
DARK MATERIALS
At Léa Peckre, models wore lower lip piercings that added a real cool factor to an otherwise quietly glowing complexion. Resident make-up artist Baltasar González Pinel talks about being “inspired by the movie Dune ... raw and refined highlighted skin, yet matte through the centre.”
“It’s about looking like the coolest version of yourself. It’s all about the vibe,” describes make-up artist Gordon Espinet of this trend, or more appropriately put, personalisation. “This customisation of make-up is completely related to the fact that the fashion industry’s representation of beauty has moved forward in leaps and bounds, letting go of archaic standards and embracing every skin tone and ethnicity.”
Diane Kendal also embraced the rawness backstage at Alexandernder Wang. Like a pro, she made sure the rough and tough vibe came through the models’ best features, simply by leaving it to their unique beauty. Piercings stayed in, Laura Mercier Velour Lovers Lip Colour in An Affair, RM129