Lights, Camera, Action!
On a scale of 1 to Hermès, how “extra” can a French luxury house get? Amy Yasmine heads to Tokyo to discover just that at the maison’s ‘Avec Elle’ exhibition.
“You’re going to be an extra today,” declared filmmaker Laure Flammarion to eager members of the press, in a converted mini theatre on the second floor of Tokyo’s National Art Center. “As part of this experience, some of you will find yourselves in front of the camera, and some, behind the camera,” she briefed, before quickly ushering us into a large makeshift studio straight out of Hollywood. Cue three production sets—each with different scenes—a full ensemble cast, filming crew, and equipments that towered above everyone’s heads.
Quite an unexpected turn of events for Hermès, known for its quiet, inimitable luxury—think logo-less Birkins and Kellys—than its flair for theatrics. But then again, leave it to the historic maison to prove its naysayers wrong with this immersive exhibition.
Going to the extremes to unveil the season’s Hermès persona, the Japanese-produced ‘Avec Elle’ exhibition revolved around a mysterious actress, whose captivating personality had piqued a writer’s interest. What began as curiosity later led to a cat-and-mouse chase, as the writer went to great lengths to acquaint herself with said actress. Instead, the writer was advised to meet with her best friend, lover, neighbour, and sister for an extensive conversation, revealing the latter’s multifaceted dispositions.
It’s worth noting that none of these characters were based on any real-life personalities, rather, they were part of a figurative approach Bali Barret, artistic director of Hermès’s women’s universe, and Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, artistic director of women’s ready-to-wear, employed to describe the latest Hermès woman. And thus, through several different sets—like a sleek New York loft, florist, or a beach— an intriguing script, and the maison’s Autumn/Winter ’18 collection, this season’s Hermès woman is decoded. Who is this woman? Through the eyes of her best friend, she is free-spirited. Through her lover’s eyes, she is spontaneous. And through her neighbour’s, elegant.
Indeed, “elegance” is usually the word that comes to mind when describing the quintessential Hermès woman, though spontaneity and free-spiritedness set this season’s collection apart from its predecessors. Hermès Autumn/Winter ’18 made for unsuspecting
yet stunning cameos throughout the exhibition, like exquisitely tailored trousers paired with a heart-printed jumper, or oversized nomadic capelets accented in highlighter-yellow. Elsewhere “backstage”, colour-blocked Birkins were displayed next to Crayola-esque riding boots, while the iconic Birkin was left to hang on a mannequin with a guitar strap. Bold tribal-inspired jewellery also shone through, placed next to delicately printed silk twillies. A definite step-up from Vanhee-Cybulski’s clean, minimalist approach; a signature the French designer had honed since her days at American label The Row.
Although fashion houses have long engaged in exhibitions to further extend their universe(s), Hermès’s engaging approach was certainly steps ahead of the curve. At a time when all things digital and e-commerce are fast dominating the luxury sector, what better way is there to get in touch with reality? Where fashion’s sense of detachment is concerned, Hermès bridged the gap between brand and consumer, and gave the buyer an up-close-and-personal experience that not only unveiled the brand’s identity, but also its unparalleled craftsmanship. So if that could give you a reason to put a five-figure down payment on one of its colour-blocked Birkins, then the future at Hermès is certainly looking bright.