Designer Mood Board: Clare Waight Keller
Inspired by Hubert de Givenchy’s lesser-known sportswear line from the ’80s, the artistic director’s latest concoction for Givenchy Cruise ’19 explores the fine line between athleticism and orientalism. By Amy Yasmine.
Category is: The Get Down, but with an oriental twist. For Givenchy Cruise ’19, Clare Waight Keller imbued the maison’s distinctly French codes with an aura of exoticism, roughed up with some street cred. Taking cue from Givenchy’s obscure sportswear line from the ’80s and her recent travels to Japan, batwing bombers were paired with floor-grazing maxis, while judoinspired belts feminised puffy parkas. “He actually did a sports line at the beginning of the Eighties,” the artistic director explained in an interview, on the founder’s use of graphic V shapes. “I thought it was interesting to mix that back into the more sophisticated tailoring part.” Cue subtle chevrons on a magenta-pink midi, or a faux-fur coat in striking ochre. On a more abstract note, chevrons were also translated into seductive cut-outs on an evening dress, as well as keyhole necklines on leather kimonos. “Kimonos look beautiful flat as well as they do on the body,” the designer added. “There was something quite interesting about using those graphic cuts and lines.” An interesting departure from the maison’s former neo-baroque approach, too.
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Yin and yang translated on a shift dress Attention on: cinched waists Kimono-esque sleeves with a dose of French sophistication Colour gradation on a lamé gown
Effortlessly sporty with batwing sleeves