Scents And Stories
As Louis Vuitton master perfumer, Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud expands its ‘Art of Travel’ codes through sensorial fragrances. Amy Yasmine meets the innovative visionaire, whose free-spirited yet inquisitive nature feeds into a new exciting chapter at the maison.
An unknown fact: while it seems that Louis Vuitton only recently explored the realm of scents, in 2016, the French maison actually crafted its first line of fragrances nearly 90 years ago. Although none of them are known to exist anymore, it had taken master perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud only five years to consolidate the house’s olfactory library once again, comprised of prized ingredients of precious and exotic origins. As the maison enters a new decade in the midst of a paradigm shift, it made complete sense for CavallierBelletrud to go beyond the norm, and explore the unknown. This inquisitive spirit eventually culminated in the process of CO2 extraction–a technical revolution primarily reserved for the food and beverage industry. And so, at the turn of this new millennia, the visionaire has perfected the art of perfume-making in the 21st-century, blurring the lines between centuries-old savoir faire, and future-forward innovations. Take for example its 2019 ‘Les Colognes’ collaboration with Los Angeles-based artist Alex Israel, a unisex series which brought new meaning to Vuitton’s ‘Art of Travel’ ethos. Evoking the spirit of California through exotic bouquets like Calabrian bergamot and South American mate, such unconventional formulas are what set the master apart. “I’m amazed by colours like of the skies, the energy of people, and the spirit of creativity, sustainability, and wellness,” he said to me on our first encounter in Paris. We meet again in Kuala Lumpur, for the launch of the new Louis Vuitton flagship store at KLCC, featuring its extensive fragrance collection. This time, the famed nose goes deeper into his technological breakthroughs, his abstract thoughts on perfume, and creation in the age of sustainability.
You created your first fragrance when you were 18 years old. What have you learned since then? Seeing everything as if I’m discovering it for the very first time. I always see things from a fresh perspective, and I believe that any success I’ve experienced in the past only opens more doors to new opportunities in the future. Otherwise, I’d only be able to make one creation. What I love about this work is that I get to challenge my creativity and I have no limits to my ideas.
How do you decide what elements of that goes into each fragrance? Is there a process, or do you create a story first before diving into a new project?
It can start from the ingredient, a discussion I had with the team, from a visual, or a visit to the atelier at Louis Vuitton. It really just starts from the concept of wanting to express what kind of perfume I want to create to generate the concept. Of course, the emotions that I have when I go on these adventures are very important. For example, how I perceive patchouli on my adventure to Indonesia is not the same way I saw patchouli maybe 10 years ago. Each day is another day with experience and freshness. Right now, I’m seeking for something outside the family of scents we’ve been creating and finally, after five years, I’ve found what I was looking for. So inspiration could come from ingredients, too.
Speaking of ingredients, as natural resources become far more limited in the eyes of a more conscious landscape, how do you intend to take the industry into the future and beyond?
Louis Vuitton is the first brand to take advantage of the clean technology with the exception of flowers—jasmine and rose—and we do not choose ingredients that are harmful. Because we are close to the flowers during the process, we are striking the flowers at a very low temperature, preserving their beauty and smell. Back in the day, flowers would be heated up to 90 degrees, causing it to break, which impedes on their natural beauty. But now, technology has advanced whereby we don’t release carbon dioxide that destroys the world. It’s a new technology that is also used for seeding, first invented for the food and beverage industry, especially coffee, which was later improved to extract flavours. So I asked the suppliers to develop an entire collection of ingredients for fragrance. I was the first in the world to use this method of extractions for Yves Saint Laurent 25 years ago. It is more expensive, but my obsession and passion were to produce perfumes that I wanted. New technologies for the future are very important, and the engine industry in perfumery is continuously trying to be better by producing less harm to the planet.
What is most important for you, when it comes to composing a scent?
The freedom of creation. I approach my job like a fashion designer, rather than a perfumer who works in a laboratory working for many brands. It’s different because I don’t follow trends. I go with my instinct and explore new emotions and ideas. The storytelling is true and historical; it’s something very genuine and simple but always chic.
What would you say defines the ultimate fragrance?
The ultimate fragrance is something we’re all thinking about, something we’re obsessed with. Because if you’re obsessed, it’s the best way to find yourself. For me, a fragrance is something memorable, like when a woman leaves a room, leaving her scent in her trace. It’s something that’s not visible, which is why it’s something that needs to be felt.
What is more important to you: a timeless perfume or something that is new?
To create a perfume that would be successful is my dream, and timeless scents are considered to me as an achievement. Fortunately, in perfumery, trends last way longer than the ones in the fashion industry, and you can have many trends at the same time. That’s perfect because then you’ll have time to express things, and that’s why it’s important to be outstanding in the industry.