New Power Dressing
Bottega Veneta creative director, Daniel Lee, continues to hone in on his vision for the Italian heritage brand with a Spring/ Summer ’20 collection that is geared towards individualism and self-expression. By Mughni Che Din.
British designer Daniel Lee has only been at the creative helm of Bottega Veneta for just over a year, but is fast becoming one of the most influential figures in the fashion industry; a recognition he cemented at the British Fashion Awards 2019 with a record of four wins including ‘Designer of the Year’. With this, the 34-yearold Italian luxury powerhouse has skyrocketed from being perceived as conservative to a fashion cult, having attracted a legion of loyal followers subscribing to Lee’s luxurious yet progressive approach.
For his sophomore runway show, guests were brought to Palazzo del Senato where Lee had erected a giant glass conservatory within the 17th century architecture. Inside, gold-edged glass floors were laid over the brand’s iconic intrecciato weave, and show attendees sat on comfy cloud-like leather cushions. “Spring/Summer ’20 evolves the codes we are building at Bottega Veneta. Our focus is on the process and clarity, immediate and direct,” said Lee in the show notes. Setting the tone for the entire collection was the opening look for the presentation—a sporty asymmetrical black knitted dress styled with a larger-than-life leather crossbody bag and a pair of white intrecciato mules.
The looks that followed suit showcased an expansive range of intricately crafted and beautifully balanced versatile pieces. There were leather hooded anoraks, oversized utilitarian coats, disco sequined party dresses, and intricate futuristic knitwear. Tones of black, gold, brown, orange, and tapioca complemented the attitude of each ensemble. However, a noteworthy look from the collection came in the shape of halter-neck silk scarf tops with pineapple and
Matisse-inspired monkey motifs, styled with a pair of kneelength leather shorts which injected a touch of lightness and humour to the tightly edited collection.
As for this season’s major handbag trends, everyone is looking to Daniel Lee, who transformed the brand and sparked the #newBottega craze. Spotted on the front row were esteemed guests sporting the brand’s instantly recognisable items: either Lee’s covetable square-toed Lido heels or the leather pouch bags, or both. Diehard fans of the label will be elated to know that the latest bags come in a variety of new shapes and silhouettes in vivid hues. From wooden top-handle bags and leather envelope bags to shoulder bags with chunky chain link straps, these accessories helped elevate the minimalist looks that were sent down the runway.
While the last season saw heavy motocross-influenced boots fit for Neo from The Matrix, Lee brought forward his sci-fi disposition to this Spring/Summer ’20 collection with elements such as futuristic sunglasses (think Kurt Cobain clout goggles meets Ultraman). Elsewhere, jewellery played an essential role for this series as models were seen wearing Mr. T–inspired gold and silver chains.
And yet, despite all his success, Lee continues to solidify his vision for the Italian house with yet another bold and convincing collection. “I want to make a statement. I don’t see the point in making fashion that does not say something. Either you love it or you hate it but that’s human nature,” said Lee during an interview backstage after the show. In that case, we are already looking forward to the next season.