Always Now & Forever Classics
Many of Cartier’s most famous designs were born out of key historical moments and captured the energy of a changing world. But the most enduring ones transcend time. By Lydia Slater.
What makes a piece of jewelry iconic? It goes without saying that it must be beautiful, groundbreaking, and inspirational. But above all else, an iconic piece is timeless, discovered afresh, and given new relevance by each successive generation. It’s a description that applies to many of Cartier’s most celebrated pieces, from the Tank, Ballon Bleu, Panthère, and Santos de Cartier watches, to the Trinity ring and the Love and Juste un Clou bracelets.
Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s director of image, style, and heritage, says the secret to their lasting appeal lies in their essential simplicity. “It’s easy for the eye to catch, but simplicity is probably the most difficult thing to achieve in a design,” Rainero explains.
The Santos de Cartier watch is a case in point. The first modern wristwatch, it was created in 1904 by Louis Cartier for his friend Alberto SantosDumont, the pioneering Brazilian aviator, as a practical solution to the problem of having to look at a pocket watch mid-flight. Although the Santos has been endlessly refashioned in different materials and with updated straps, its geometric dial makes it instantly recognizable.
The Tank too was conceived more than a century ago, named after the armored vehicles that rumbled across the battlefields of World War I. But the sleekness of its design has ensured a cult following ever since: Yves Saint Laurent, Andy Warhol, Jackie Kennedy, and Princess Diana all wore Tanks.
And the Trinity ring, first sold in 1924, marries simplicity of design with emotional resonance. The three rings in varying shades of gold symbolize friendship, love, and fidelity, and are intertwined in such a way that they roll smoothly over one another.
A different take on love was proffered by Cartier designer Aldo Cipullo, in 1969, with the introduction of the Love bracelet, adorned with screws and conceived to be secured around the wrist with a screwdriver. “Love was a design that clearly expressed the idea of permanent attachment to someone else,” says Rainero.
Two years later, Cipullo created Juste un Clou, a nail reimagined as a precious jewel to wrap around a wrist. When Cartier reintroduced Juste un Clou in 2012, it took off, beloved for its wit (what practical use does a bent nail serve?) and its industrial elegance. Though Rainero fears that “it may be too soon to call it an icon,” Juste un Clou fulfills all the criteria: It’s unmistakable, easy to wear, and appeals to a wide range of people. “The fact that a piece of jewelry is adopted by new generations shows the relevance and the power of the design,” Rainero says. “Everybody is equal in front of a beautiful object.”