Schiaparelli

In the show notes that accompanied the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Autumn/Winter ’22 show, creative director Daniel Roseberry wrote, “What’s wrong with wanting to make beautiful things?” He also said that fashion is silly at times, but he also mentioned that it can also be “provocative, upending, challenging, and meaningful, as well as breathtaking and beautiful.” This encapsulates the role of couture—it’s meant to be over-the-top, whimsical and a display of fashion of the highest order. Therefore, it is unsurprising that haute couture is where Schiaparelli truly blossoms. Entitled Born Again, the collection revolves around a conversation between Elsa Schiaparelli and one of the brand’s most important collaborators, Christian Lacroix. Eighties nostalgia, which has been revived in the fashion realm over the past couple of years, is reminiscent of silhouettes from Lacroix’s 1987 Haute Couture collection. The first look of the collection comes in the form of a short dress with pointed shoulders in black velvet and is embellished with black grape embroideries that are inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s original archives. The look also features a silk crepe skirt with an exposed satin corset with two velvet bows. Moreover, the collection is a continuation of Roseberry’s fascination with the female body and sensuality. From a moulded corset with velvet rib embroidery that exposes the wearer’s breast underneath a black mesh bodysuit to trompe-l’oeil bustier that is moulded into a naked torso paired with a draped low-cut skirt. One of the show-stopping looks comes in the shape of a Jean Cocteau inspired lace-up jacket in black velvet paired with hat and muff in feather wheat embroidery. The vibrant bouquet of flowers made out of tulips, daisies and hydrangeas that decorate the garments are subtle nods to Lacroix’s adoration for colour as well as a beautiful homage to Elsa Schiaparelli’s Shocking floral perfume bottle. Exquisite millinery in both show-stopping boat hats and Stephen Jones’ ostrich feather creations add to the grandeur and share in the most literal and figurative ways. “I hope the joy we felt, of creating things, of getting to make beautiful objects that people will always remember, is evident in every coat, dress, and accessory.”