Open Sesame
Malay for ‘sesame’, the Bijan Bar and Restaurant is a peaceful haven amid the bustling confusion of the Malaysian metropolis
Achic and contemporary restaurant that specialises in fine Malay cuisine, Bijan is an intimate and cosy establishment located along a quiet stretch of road in Jalan Ceylon. sight for sore eyes, especially after a long day at the office, the recently renovated venue manages to fuse the rustic and the modern with startling ease and panache. Featuring a revamped dining area, a spacious outdoor terrace and a brand new bar lit by orange lanterns, Bijan is somewhat of a contradiction. On the one hand, the restaurant’s dark wooden beams, bamboo blinds, charming batik hangings and candlelit atmosphere all work to perpetuate the feel of a traditional Malay dwelling. On the other hand, the decor is minimalist and features crisp clean lines akin to other modernday eateries. In addition to this, Bijan also boasts of being able to pair a casual fine dining Malay menu with one of the most extensive wine lists I’ve ever seen. Not a traditional combination by any stretch of the imagination. Occupying a coveted position in the Malaysia Tatler Best Restaurants guide and as the proud winner of the Tourism Malaysia Best Malay Restaurant Award in 2004, I must admit that my expectations are quite high. From the get-go, the staff are polite and attentive—a good sign. A pioneer in its genre, Bijan’s philosophy lies in marrying traditional recipes with unique and high quality ingredients, thus creating the perfect dining experience for the modern and unpretentious Malaysian. With a seating capacity of around 230 people, the establishment prides itself on utilising culinary techniques that are not normally associated with Malay food but which are authentic enough to remind patrons of why they fell in love with the cuisine in the first place. The flavours are old and familiar and yet new and exciting—from the taste to the manner by which they are presented. As an appetiser, I tried a platter of four different types of starters—the aneka pembuka selera. What stood out for me were the acar tauhu skewers and the giant cucur udang balls. The fried tofu were bitesized, soft and a good balance between sweet and sour. The cucur udang was chockfull of prawns and deep-fried to a golden brown. Served with Bijan’s special chili sauce, the chunky balls are well textured ikan siakap sos ayam