Soul Food

New kid on the block, Barat Mediterranean Fine Dining challenges convention with a sensorial vegetarian degustation menu tasted by Jessica Liew

Tucked away among Lorong Kurau’s cosy collection of eateries is Barat Mediterranean Fine Dining. Its executive chef, Lingesh Dimitrus Joseph, formed a friendship with Prabodh and Meeta Sheeth, owners of next door’s Ganga Cafe, and eventually joint-ventured for this vegetarian concept establishment. “I turned myself into a proper vegetarian for a year to understand what was missing here and how I could improve vegetarian food,” Lingesh shares. The restaurant is an airy loft strewn with natural light where white-wash walls meet raw brick panels and wooden floors, and a backyard herb and green garden peer through a screen of floor-to-ceiling windows. Vases of colourful flowers give the dominantly white interior a touch of vibrancy, along with dreamy murals by Ines Katamso. Upstairs is a cosy space with reclaimed furniture. “It’s our way of portraying end-to-end sustainability,” explains Lingesh. “I’m consciously putting in effort to be more responsible towards the environment.” This organic philosophy can be tasted in Barat’s harvest-based 13-course degustation menu. To begin is a rustic platter of home baked bread with apple cider and red wine vinaigrette. A roasted pumpkin soup infused with ginger and sprinkled further with air fried ginger, pleasantly heats up the creamy squash. “Through this Mediterranean concept, I have the advantage of heightening taste profiles with herbs and spices that locals are accustomed to,” Lingesh elaborates. My next course is a pretty salad of baby arugula, rocket, chard leaves and sweet basil.