A New Sensation
Chefs Ili Sulaiman and Basira Yeusuff team up to take Malaysian food in a new direction with Agak Agak, writes Tien Chew
Ihad little idea of what to expect when I first walked into Agak Agak, a restaurant tucked away in Art Print Works (APW), a location in Bangsar widely known for its rebirth in 2014, which serves as a space for budding entrepreneurs and creatives. All I knew was that the duo behind the restaurant was well-known, the menu sounded creative and the folks running the show seemed genuine. Although I had never met Ili Sulaiman or Basira Yeusuff before I stepped into their newly opened restaurant, things were off swimmingly after introductions. Agak Agak, a popular Malay word that means ‘to estimate,’ is both a restaurant and a social enterprise (more on that later) that introduces new avenues to enjoy Malaysian produce and dishes. Given the rich nature of our culinary landscape, Ili and Basira have partnered up to deliver delectable, fresh dishes for those who enjoy modern Malaysian cuisine. After having dined at their restaurant, I am happy to say that the pair have managed to create something special that will definitely drive our culinary scene forward. My dining experience began with mangkuk tongkol, a delicious bowl of pan seared ikan tongkol (local tuna), baked eggplant with tamarind chilli shoyu topped with crispy ginger and garlic, chopped spring onion, pickled vegetables and rice. One bite reveals a wonderfully seasoned flaky fish that when mixed with the rice, creates a Malay– Japanese flavour that lights up your taste buds. The tamarind chilli shoyu is a brilliant way to spice up the fluffy rice and the eggplant, though the dish itself is slightly spicy—a refreshing take on familiar ingredients. The next dish to arrive is chilli pâté mee, an intriguingly sounding take on another classic Malaysian street food—chilli pan mee. With a dollop of chicken liver pâté set in the middle of house-made toasted rye noodles to twist things up, the bowl of noodles is rich and flavourful. Add the provided chili oil to turn the heat up and complement the mince chicken, ikan bilis and soy sauce egg. As someone who knows a good bowl of pan mee, having enjoyed it since the age of five, this was definitely an interesting mix. What surprised me was how the additional ingredient jazzed up an otherwise classic bowl of comfort food.