In a New York State of Mind

Aneesha Veriah, director of The Bowery Group, divulges to Samantha Lim on how travelling hones her business acumen

Trading vignettes about The Big Apple causes her eyes to sparkle, whereas mulling over Fog City makes her brows furrow. Worldly and beautiful, Aneesha Veriah is confident in her own skin and unwavering about her likes and dislikes, a case in point being that of New York City versus San Francisco. Like the quintessential New Yorker, the lady boss behind The Bowery Group is constantly on the go with her well-inked planner. It’s little wonder that in two years, the restaurant group has grown to encompass Bowery Petit in TTDI, Bowery Kitchen and Bar in Publika, and Bowery Metro in Menara Hap Seng (this not counting their catering arm, Made by Bowery, or retail at Ben’s Independent Grocer and Village Grocer). While a restaurateur’s workload is Sisyphean, the self-professed globetrotter insists on, and persists by way of travel as an instrument for self-improvement. “The most powerful tools for inspiration aren’t ingredients or culinary training,” she says. “They are experiences. Travelling, whether it’s a hundred or thousands of miles away, is an opportunity to expand your horizons, discover new cuisines, and live within a different culture. Stepping outside one’s comfort zone sparks the kind of creativity and innovation that produces an ethereal hospitality experience.” New York City tops her list of the best cities for culinary inspiration, hence The Bowery Group, named after a burgeoning neighbourhood in Manhattan. “Eight million people from different corners of the world congregate there, so the range of culinary experiences is bewildering,” voices Aneesha. “The fine-dining scene changes amazingly fast. Whatever the fads though, there are always the classics, and NYC does them like no other—think Keste’s coal-fired pizzas, Katz’s Delicatessen’s Reuben bagels, Grand Central Oyster Bar’s shucked seafood, and Peter Luger’s venerable Porterhouse steak.” Two other countries have had a profound impact on Aneesha’s approach to F&B: “In Japan, customer service entails anticipating your needs without being overbearing, such as placing chopstick holders and sake cups according to your handedness,” she states. “Italy, on the other hand, goes the classic route, instead of over-complicating a dish. I had a poignant experience at a casual restaurant in Florence. Equipped with an open hearth, they served grilled meats dressed with local herbs, and pastas served with nary but fresh tomatoes and truffle shavings. It made me think about the importance of preserving the integrity of ingredients.” While the road less travelled is often a bumpy one, Aneesha deems it ‘a test of one’s fortitude.’ “Even the most organised traveller

“Travelling calls for spontaneity... which is key when running your own F&B business”

will see his or her plans go awry,” she asserts. “Rides show up late, suitcases explode, boarding passes get lost—and it usually happens all at the same time. Travelling calls for spontaneity, forcing you to improvise and adapt quickly, which is key in F&B.” Having a job where work and play commingle might seem enviable, but Aneesha admits it’s often hard to draw the line: “My business trips are interspersed with personal diversions while my holidays spark creative ideas.” All in all, one thing’s for certain: being a jet-setter has led to her accomplishments as a trendsetting businesswoman in Malaysia.