Tatler Malaysia

Lucky Number 13

As if crafting a pairing menu weren’t enough, Yun House at the Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur ups the ante by naming a dining room after Rémy Martin’s Louis XIII. Samantha Lim pays a visit to the ‘shrine’

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Get a whiff of the Louis XIII at Yun House in Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur

The louis xiii room at Yun House is full of music, but not in the convention­al sense. Musical instrument­s are absent, replaced instead by the tinkling of laughter, the clinking of cutlery, and a sonorous ringing reminiscen­t of Tibetan singing bowls. “Clink the bottom of your bowl, not the rim of y our glass!” instructs Chris Kwek, private client director of Louis XIII in Southeast Asia. Though we are but a third of the way through our bottle of Louis XIII, the ambience is f estive. “I am really excited and proud,” announces Kwek. “This is our first partnershi­p in Southeast Asia, or Asia for that matter, with a luxury five-star hotel to showcase the best way to enjoy the king of cognac. But as I’m sure you already know, Louis XIII isn’t just any cognac, the same way that The Four Seasons isn’t like any other hotel chain.” Raising a glass to Kwek, Tom Roelens, general manager of the Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur says, “This is an important partnershi­p for us. It’s been in the books way before we even opened the property. After all, Louis XIII and the Four Seasons share a similar clientele—people who appreciate the best in life. Today, we’ve prepared a menu that’s commensura­te with a great beverage.” Delicacies include the Four Seasons Combinatio­n Platter, a medley of crispy

foie gras, silverfish and mushrooms; a fish maw soup anchored by the biggest abalone I’ve ever laid eyes on; tender braised lobster blanketed under truffle shavings; coral garoupa nestled in a dim sum basket; and springy strands of fish-paste noodles. Jimmy Wong, executive chef of Yun House, pops into the private room just long enough for us to ask him about the seafood-centric menu. “Surf instead of turf, so as to not overshadow Louis XIII’S nuances,” explains the pony-tailed chef in colloquial Cantonese. Sure enough, Louis XIII’S flavours are placed at the forefront. A single whiff of the amber liquid brings apricot and honey to mind. Secondary aromas include cedarwood and tea leaves. As for flavours? An image imprinted on my mind sums it up: that of the

“Louis XIII isn’t just any cognac, the same way that The Four Seasons isn’t like any other hotel chain”

explosive fireworks at the grand opening of the Four Seasons Hotel. ‘The Louis XIII Experience’ is designed to be shared among 10 participan­ts (RM28,888 inclusive of a 70 cl decanter) but can also be enjoyed by the solo adventurer (RM3,000 per pax with two 60 ml glasses). Come for lunch or dinner, but ring 03-2382 8888 to make reservatio­ns.

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 ??  ?? FRUITS DE MER Chef Jimmy Wong sought inspiratio­n from Sabah’s bounteous seas so as not to overshadow Louis XIII’S subtleties
FRUITS DE MER Chef Jimmy Wong sought inspiratio­n from Sabah’s bounteous seas so as not to overshadow Louis XIII’S subtleties
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