Pristine Borneo
Traveller Geraldine Sim gives us a picturesque glimpse of Sarawak that is off the beaten track
Only a true explorer would know the hidden gems of a travel destination. Let Geraldine Sim take you on the lesser known parts of Sarawak
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE SARAWAK?
Few places in the world evoke an overwhelming sense of the mystical unknown; Sarawak is one such place. First off, the bird’s eye view of Sarawak from the plane is truly breathtaking. One will see the mighty Rajang River slithering through a vast stretch of lush greenery—it makes us feel very blessed for being inhabitants of this intriguing and wonderful land in the east.
The people of Sarawak are as discernibly diverse as its plant and animal life. There are more than 60 cultures co-existing harmoniously in this vast expanse of land. I think this is extremely rare in this global space and time!
WHAT ARE PLACES TO VISIT IN SARAWAK WHICH ARE NOT COMMONLY FOUND IN TRAVEL BROCHURES?
Brooke Gallery at Fort Margherita This museum highlights the development of Sarawak during the era of the White Rajahs and gives us an insight into their lives. There is no setting more apt or nostalgic than this. The fort in the style of an English castle was built by the second Rajah of
Permai Rainforest Resort
I have included this resort only because they have recently come up with premium treehouse-rooms— thus making this property an ideal place for exclusivity and adventure.
The eco-resort is nestled in between the shores of South China Sea
and Mount Santubong National Park. They have a high ropes course, and activities like tree-climbing, coastal kayaking, paddle boarding as well as bespoke tours like dolphin watching and snorkelling at Satang island and hiking at Bako National Park and Mount Santubong.
Ironwood Valley Farm
A private property belonging to the Ridu family, I only came to discover this hidden gem two years ago when I was invited for a wedding here. This sprawling farmhouse, with guest rooms and guesthouses, is a merger between Western and Eastern designs that is both charming and modern.
The interior deco (native and English manor elements) are tastefully put together, exuding the sophisticated and refined taste of the family. Surrounded by pristine lawns and lush foliage, the green landscape is breathtaking and otherworldly.
BEST DISHES IN SARAWAK?
Hands down—sarawak laksa! The late chef Anthony Bourdain proclaimed that it was the ‘Breakfast of Gods.’ Interestingly, crispy tomato mee is also a Kuching thing. It’s crispy fried noodles served in tangy tomato gravy—i think it’s just ketchup and stock plus seafood or meat.
Other than that, try to get your hands on the most expensive freshwater fish in the region, the empurau. It is indigenous to Sarawak, and can fetch up to RM1,700 per kg. This fish feeds on a certain type of wild fruit that falls into the river from the jungle trees. The empurau’s exclusive diet gives it its rich, slightly fatty and delicate texture. However, there is not a single restaurant in town that serves this fish. We have to procure it ourselves (which seems rather impossible if not for the right connections) and bring it to the restaurants to be cooked.
NAME THREE ACTIVITIES YOU RECOMMEND VISITORS DO.
• A thing I actually frequently enjoy doing is the Carpenter Street Cafe/pub Crawl. In no particular order, I would start off with coffee in Chinatown— Blackbean Coffee and/or 57. Wine and dinner at the Old Courthouse followed by drinks at Drunk Monkey and Kyushigai (a stylish izakaya bar in an alleyway) on Carpenter Street. Proceed to Zinc for artisanal cocktails and tapas and end the night at Junk (an institution in Kuching especially for networking and socialising with friends from different social circles).
• Walk on the Waterfront and cross the stunning Darul Hana Pedestrian Bridge which connects north and south Kuching. During the day, you can cross to the north side to explore Fort Margherita, Astana and the world-class orchid garden. Some visitors even cross over to the Malay village to buy kuih lapis and other snacks from the stalls which are also accessible by sampan.
• Kayaking, especially in the rivers in the outskirts of Kuching. As you paddle and glide along, more often than not, you will see schools of freshwater fish underneath—it is always a spectacular and surreal sight.