SHOP LIKE A COLLECTOR
SARAH HELLER RECOMMENDS EIGHT BOT TLES TO PICK UP AND STASH AWAY FOR A DECADE ( BUT THEY’LL STILL DRINK NICELY IF YOU GET IMPATIENT)
Joseph Drouhin Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc 2016
Arguably Drouhin’s most famous vineyard, it often performs like a grand cru. 2016’s bottling came out taut, energetic and bright with an adolescent nose like biscuits, white blossoms and fresh linens. Clean, lean 2017 is looking more promising still.
Gianni Gagliardo Barolo Lazzarito Vigna Preve 2015
Quietly toiling away for years to convert its proprietary blends into more prestigious single-vineyard crus, Gagliardo is finally releasing the (excuse the pun) fruits of its labour. 2015 was a glorious year and this Lazzarito has the muscular prowess and austerity to be a long ager, but the less patient might scoop up their fragrant charmer, Mosconi.
Dom Pérignon 2008
Obvious, perhaps, but truly spectacular: acid and mineral like an electric jolt from a spark plug and aromas like Meyer lemons on a cooling sea breeze. 2008 was the magical year when everyone seemed to produce an amazing vintage prestige cuvée: Sir Winston Churchill, La Grande Dame and Cristal were also stunning.
Ca’ del Bosco Cuvée Annamaria Clementi Rosé 2009
Franciacorta’s dry but plush style is completely in step with today’s sparkling wine aficionados’ preferences and Ca’ del Bosco is probably the most recognisable name in the region. Annamaria Clementi, named for founder Maurizio Zanella’s mother, is the benchmark prestige bottling for the region, and the suave, ethereal rosé is especially beloved.
Sadie Family Columella 2016
This grenache-syrah blend has been on the ascent as one of South Africa’s most collectible bottles since its 2000 inaugural vintage. Ever more grenache-dominant with less and less new oak but more and more stems, Columella grows more esoteric and focused every year. The famously acid-obsessed Eben Sadie has constructed it with the verve to live virtually forever.
Château Climens 2009
Biodynamically farmed Climens has been the favoured Sauternes (really a Barsac) of the small circle of local sweet-wine drinkers for the past few years at least. More precise and angular than the more famous Yquem, this has the freshness as well as the sugar to survive the decade(s).
CVNE Imperial Rioja Gran Reserva 2010
Traditional Rioja Gran Reserva are famously long-lived. CVNE (usually pronounced “Coonay”) Imperial was first bottled in the 1920s, ages in a cellar designed by Gustave Eiffel (yes that Eiffel) and is one of the most lyrical, graceful red-fruited riojas on the market. However, rioja’s modest attitude to pricing means this will likely remain a “QPR” (quality to price ratio) even in 10 years.
Rockford Basket Press Shiraz Barossa Valley 2013
Well-cellared, mature Australian wines are so challenging to source on the secondary market that admirers of these classically sculpted, powerful wines obsessively buy them on release, even if you can buy older vintages on the market relatively inexpensively.
For more of Master of Wine Sarah Heller’s recommendations, follow @sarahhellermw