The Great Empire is Born
Victoria Reynolds, chief gemmologist of Tiffany & Co, gives an in‑depth look at the historic 80.33‑carat Empire Diamond, set in an equally historic design from the 1939 World’s Fair
Finding the ideal gemstone to set in the reimagined World’s Fair Necklace was years in the making. We knew we wanted to recreate the original necklace’s Art Deco form and we knew we had to rethink the design from a modern perspective, but the challenge was in finding a stone remarkable enough to feature in such an important, symbolic necklace.
How it happened was serendipitous. In 2020, Tiffany archivists came across the original sketch of the World’s Fair Necklace. It depicted a large diamond instead of the aquamarine that the necklace later featured. Diamonds are very important to Tiffany’s heritage, so it became clear that the reimagined necklace would have to frame the most exceptional diamond we could acquire.
Shortly after that, we were presented with the Empire Diamond—over 80 carats, internally flawless type IIA clarity, D colour. It was immediately evident that we had found what we were looking for.
Not only is the Empire Diamond rare, but it is also a symbol of Tiffany’s approach to diamond traceability, the first in the industry. The gem was responsibly sourced in Botswana, cut and polished in Israel, and set in New York by master Tiffany jewellers.
The aquamarine in the original World’s Fair Necklace weighed more than 200 carats and was emerald cut, a shape that beautifully complemented the design. By using a perfectly proportioned oval diamond, we have softened and modernised the necklace, while still paying homage to the original piece.
The Empire Diamond can be removed and transformed into a show‑stopping ring, which has a design inspired by the architecture of New York City. Adding an element of transformability was important to us, as it allows the wearer to adapt the jewellery to her personal style and enjoy the diamond in multiple ways.
It was never our goal to simply replicate the original design. Rather, we wanted to elevate it to make it more special.
Achieving the convertible design was a challenge. It involved a combination of our jewellers’ incredible skills and modern engineering. From the procurement of the diamond to the design and final completion, the necklace took more than two years to create.
The masterpiece was unveiled during Expo 2020 in Dubai (which was postponed to October 2021 due to the pandemic), themed “connecting minds, creating the future”. Like the 1939 World’s Fair, which promised “a glimpse into the world of tomorrow”, it put the spotlight on the future, making it the ideal event to reveal this extraordinary necklace.
The design has been exceptionally well received. This is one of the most extraordinary and expensive pieces ever created in Tiffany’s storied history. We know that it will be sold to a discerning client who values the house’s rich heritage and it will be an honour to share the magic of this exceptional necklace with them.
The Empire Diamond will live among the many important stones we have acquired over the years and will continue to in future. Its significance is clear from its name, which honours New York, the birthplace of Tiffany & Co.