The B to Z of Green Beauty

If all the buzzwords in green beauty have got you confused, Tatler is here to help with a glossary of the most popular terms

The terminology used when talking about green, clean and sustainable beauty can often be ambiguous; definitions can also change as the products and user expectations evolve. There is as yet no way to be perfect when it comes to buying products that won’t harm the planet. But Tatler has defined and clarified the terms that appear most frequently to help you avoid greenwashing—that is, marketing something as eco-conscious when it’s not, or as more environmentally friendly than it is—and ensure you know what you’re buying.

Botanical: Refers to ingredients extracted from plants, such as flower extracts, herb oils, antioxidants from berries and naturally occurring acids found in plants. Note that while botanical ingredients come from natural sources, that does not automatically mean they are suitable for all skin types; some—particularly citrus oils—can be irritating for sensitive skin.

CClean: Contains ingredients that are nontoxic. While the terms “green” and “natural” are often associated with “clean” beauty, this is a misconception—many clean beauty companies use non-toxic synthetic ingredients, as they can be more stable, sustainable and eco-friendly, plus less dangerous, than some naturally derived ingredients.

Cruelty-free: Refers to products that are manufactured using methods that do not cause harm to animals; however, “cruelty-free” products are not automatically vegan as they can contain ingredients derived from animal products. Look for labels featuring the Leaping Bunny, which certifies that the product hasn’t undergone any animal testing in its development. Eco-friendly: An umbrella term with several meanings: it can refer to a product having recycled packaging, or its being made by a company that is actively trying to reduce their carbon footprint or being carbon neutral—this is when companies calculate the amount of CO2 produced when making and shipping products, and compensate for that by paying a carbon offsetting programme. A company with truly eco-friendly products will be explicit in sharing what tangible actions they are taking to protect the environment.

Ethical: Beauty companies can approach being “ethical” in different ways—that can be using recycled or zero waste packaging, having good waste management policies in place, being socially conscious and working alongside charities, or sourcing ingredients produced responsibly. For example, products featuring the Fairtrade symbol means the workers producing the ingredients were treated and paid fairly for their work and goods.

Green: Like “eco-friendly”, this is a vague, overarching term. Often mentioned alongside “natural”, “organic” and “sustainable”, there is no clear definition, although “green” beauty products are made with consideration for the environment. This can mean using ethically sourced or plant-based ingredients, but generally, it signals a product that does not actively damage the environment so look out for ingredients and information that proves those claims.

N

Natural: Contains ingredients derived from natural sources, but the classification is not regulated. An Ecocert label indicates that 95 per cent of the formulation is made of natural ingredients.

Be aware that “natural” does not equate to being “ethical” or “vegan” unless explicitly stated.

Non-toxic: Refers to ingredients which are not harmful or poisonous, or which have not been linked to causing toxic responses in humans—neurological disorders and cancer, for example.

O

Organic: Containing ingredients grown without the use of chemicals. Tied closely to “natural”, in beauty the term refers to the quality of a product’s natural ingredients, but there is no one definition of how much “organic” content a product must contain to be classified as “organic”, and some brands come up with their own definitions.

It’s worth noting that “organic” products are not necessarily sustainable, as the ingredients may require more water, energy and land if chemicals are not used to farm them.

P

Parabens: Contrary to popular belief in the world of natural skincare, these are not completely objectionable. Parabens are a preservative used in skincare and cosmetics to prevent microbial growth, making them last longer. They are regulated in countries around the world and classified as safe, even in extremely large doses, according to US organisation Cosmetic Ingredient Review.

S

SLS: An abbreviation for sodium lauryl sulphate, a surfactant found in many skincare and body care products. Its function is to trap oil and grease and help to create a rich lather, but it has a bad reputation as there have been claims that it is too harsh to safely use on skin or that it can cause hair loss. However, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review has refuted those claims, stating it is safe to use in formulations designed to be washed off.

Sustainable: Although it feels like a buzzword, this can apply to multiple aspects of a product and is core to many clean beauty brands. That includes using responsibly sourced ingredients in formulations and having recyclable or biodegradable packaging. Check for clear labels that state what is truly sustainable about the product.

V

Vegan: Often associated with cruelty-free brands, vegan products do not contain any ingredients derived from animals or animal by-products, including beeswax, honey or lanolin. However, this does not automatically mean equate to “clean”, as synthetic ingredients that are vegan can be considered toxic.

W

Waterless: The latest development in sustainable beauty: this means that the product does not contain water in its formulation. Water makes up 80 per cent of most product formulations, and is a precious resource; its inclusion can make products unsustainable.

Z

Zero-waste: Refers to products that do not generate leftover waste that will go to landfill, thus reducing pollution. Many zero-waste beauty products will be packaged in reusable and recyclable materials, such as bamboo or glass, or will be formulated in the form of a bar to reduce the need of packaging.