New Straits Times

QUITE THE WINNER

If you like western fare and baked goodies, Miss Ellie Tea House is worth visiting, writes Ewe Paik Leong

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iPUT the small clipboard on the table and lift the coloured papers attached together with a metal clip sheet by sheet. The first sheet lists the dinner specials, which are rotated regularly.

Tonight, it’s Smashed (sic) Potato & Chicken Salad and Spaghetti Chicken Carbonara. The listings on subsequent sheets are rather limited. There are no pictures; only short explanator­y notes accompany the names of the dishes.

Tea-smoked Salmon Salad Tikka Shepherd’s Pie and Creole-style Spaghetti with black mussels are among the standouts.

Scones come in four flavours: Plain, oat, raisin and chocolate. About a dozen types of tea are available. I am shocked to learn that it costs RM2 to refill the tea pot with hot water.

After a waitress takes my order, I survey my surroundin­gs, and my memories take me back to the English-themed cafes in Cameron Highlands. Displays of books, a wooden coat hanger stand, ceramic tea pots, gilded framed photos and glass cake domes filled with baked goodies convey a warm homely ambiance. Simple branched chandelier­s of crystal cut glass hanging from the ceiling emit soft lighting which I find soothing. However, the tight positionin­g of tables detracts all romantic notions from the place.

My Smashed Potato & Chicken Salad comprises green leaf lettuce, bread, mashed potato, roasted pumpkin, crouton and baked chicken dressed in black pepper dijonnaise (dijon mustard plus mayonnaise). Wowie zowie! A bite of the roasted pumpkin delivers an explosion of sweet earthy flavours. The zesty dijonnaise adds a welcome creaminess to the baked chicken, and the different textures of the ingredient­s produce an exciting sensation.

The Spaghetti Chicken Carbonara has sauteed chicken, spaghetti, cherry tomato and mushroom, all drenched in a creamy sauce. The slightly rough texture of the spaghetti conveys the sauce well. As the sauce uses chicken stock as the base, it enriches the flavour of the

sauteed chicken. This is no ordinary spaghetti carbonara.

The last entree is Chicken Parmigiana. The panfried breaded chicken breast is topped with gratinated cheddar and tomato-basil compote. My knife slices through the chicken with ease, indicating it’s tender.

However, the cheddar cheese and tomato-basil compote are a tad dry and too little to make any significan­t impact on the chicken. The result is an abrasive mouth-feel. A generous slather of melted cheese would have improved this dish.

Dessert is Vanilla Creme Brulee. The berry compote bursts with tart flavours which provide a counterpoi­nt to the vanilla in the custard base. It reminds me of Chinese egg tart.

Finally, the raisin and oat scones. I attack both with lashings of whipped cream and jam. Flaky and light, they crumble in my mouth with a sweetish taste. Verdict: With one flop and four winning items, this tea house will make you walk away satisfied.

 ??  ?? Spaghetti chicken carbonara is fullflavou­red.
Spaghetti chicken carbonara is fullflavou­red.
 ??  ?? Smashed potato & chicken salad offers textural intrigue.
Smashed potato & chicken salad offers textural intrigue.
 ??  ?? Vanilla creme brulee tastes like Chinese egg tart.
Vanilla creme brulee tastes like Chinese egg tart.
 ??  ?? Freshly baked scones.
Freshly baked scones.

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