Poppies Bali is a true classic
The stalwart of Bali’s dining scene has been delighting diners for over 40 years, writes Angela Goh
FEW can match Poppies Restaurant’s enduring success, let alone have two lanes named after it (Poppies Lane 1 and 2). Poppies’ inception in 1973 grew from the collaboration of Zenik Sukenny (who had a thriving streetside eatery in Kuta) and John Taylor (who enjoys garden design).
Since then, it has become Bali’s bastion of honest-to-goodness classic cuisine served in a quintessential Balinese garden setting.
“We grew from five tables around a pond and some loyal diners. And those who return actually appreciate that their favourite items are still on the menu,” says Taylor, who now lives in the UK.
“The concept has always been hard work, constant attention to every little
The entrance to Poppies Restaurant. detail, staff welfare, hygiene and top quality ingredients.”
Poppies’ answer to the urge to sample a little of almost everything is the Rijsttafel (Dutch for rice table or buffet). This twoperson sharing meal (can be made for one) consists of nine classic Indonesian dishes, as well as satay for starter, steamed and fried rice, and a dessert, taking 25 minutes to prepare.
While waiting, I enjoy a non-alcoholic Virgin Pina Colada presented in a deftly hand-carved coconut of ethereal proportions, shaped in the form of the fearsomefaced Rangda (a personification of evil for Balinese Hindus). As I sip from the mouth of Rangda, I observe the endless foot traffic into the premises. Life after 40 for this legendary restaurant shows no signs of
Rijsttafel consists of nine dishes surrounding several condiments in the middle. On the side are white and fried rice, and satay cooked over a stove.
Non-alcoholic Pina Colada in a hand-carved coconut shell shaped as Rangda, a symbol of negative force.
The Cumi-cumi Curry (squid in fragrant curry) demonstrates why Poppies is a legend — squid so tender it veers nowhere near chewy. Restaurant manager Kadek Suardika tells me how to select fresh, tender squid: “The colour of the squid should be milk white and opaque. We reject any that is transparent.”
The other stand-outs include Beef Rendang (braised beef with spices and coconut milk), Tongseng Kambing (lamb stew), Ikan Laut Bumbu Bali (fish fillets in spicy sauce), Ayam Sisit Sambal Matah (shredded chicken seasoned with diced shallots, chilli and lemongrass, mixed with oil and lime juice), and Udang Goreng Tepung (deep-fried battered prawns in sweet-sour sauce).
The hearty fare is balanced with lightweights such as Perkedel Kentang (potato or corn patties), Sayur Buncis (stir-fried French beans) and Sayur Urab (steamed vegetables with spicy grated coconut sauce).
Condiments include the all-important Sambal Matah (the most perfectly blended I’ve encountered in Bali), Sambal Kecap (cut chilli in sweet soya sauce), Bumbu Sate (peanut sauce), Acar (pickle) and Bajak (chilli sauce).
The dessert is bubur injin or what we refer to as pulut hitam (glutinous black rice pudding) but here, it is topped with slices of banana and hints of cinnamon to splendid effect.
Poppies also run The Kopi Pot restaurant in Kuta and Strawberry Hill Restaurant in Bedugul. The same magic extends further afield to Koh Samui, Thailand, where I have dined on many pleasurable occasions at Poppies Samui Restaurant, which occupies the best strip on Chaweng Beach.
Despite the success of the flagship restaurant, Zenik and Taylor have not taken a back seat.
“We are both involved in every aspect of Poppies, from food tasting to cleanliness of glasses and colour of walls, to which batik makes a nice tablecloth,” says Taylor.