Steeped in history
Visits the restored house of a wealthy 19th-century trader who lived in the eastern state of the Malay Peninsula
Fine architecture and a historical past make Haji Su Heritage House in Terengganu a tourist draw.
“THE house was restored recently and has gained rave reviews since its opening. Some parts are riddled with bullet holes and damaged by bomb shrapnel sustained during the Japanese Occupation. I highly recommend a visit,” reads a WhatsApp message on my phone.
The words “bullet holes”, “bomb shrapnel” and “Japanese Occupation” grab my attention, and I pause to reach for the last piece of keropok lekor on my plate.
That last part of message from Tourism Malaysia Eastern Region Office director Zaliha Zainuddin, suggesting that I visit the nearby Haji Su Heritage House after my meal, proclaims with finality.
Excited at the unexpected opportunity, I quickly end my meal and start making my way out from the famous keropok stall in Kampung Losong. While weaving in and out of a row of tourist buses lining the roadside, it suddenly dawns upon me that both the road and the heritage house are named after the same person — Haji Su. My interest is piqued! I just cannot wait to learn more about this important Kuala Terengganu personality. traditional architectural technique called Rumah Bujang Berpeleh Berkembar Tiga (Single House With Three Linked Gable Ends). According to historical records acquired from the Terengganu State Museum, a group of skilled Malay builders began work on this building in 1840 and completed their task 10 years later.
The person who commissioned the building of this house remains unknown. Researchers believed it was already in existence when Haji Su’s father bought the land sometime in the 1870s.
Walking through the pintu maling (main door), I discover that the Rumah Bujang Berpeleh is made up of several sections such as the rumah ibu (main section of the house) and the kitchen annex. In the past, most houses in Terengganu had walls made from woven bamboo strips. This material type was favoured as it retained very little heat during the day, allowing the interior to remain cool even at midday.
Furthermore, the windows and doors positioned strategically throughout the house allow the cool breezes in throughout the day. As a result, traditional Malay houses like this can dispense with the cooling devices so prevalent in modern homes. I notice that even the floor planks are arranged in such a manner that there are gaps between them. These purposeful crevices further enhance the effectiveness of the home ventilation system.
Rumah Bujang Berpeleh’s main hall is filled with traditional equipment that highlight Terengganu’s renowned handicraft. These include a century-old songket loom, mengkuang mat weaving paraphernalia and intricate batik printing hand stamps. A large glass display cabinet by a side wall showcase ages-old Malay weapons like tombak (spear), keris (short dagger) and pedang (sword).
While the front section of the house is predominantly reserved for the menfolk and guests, the rear section is the place where the women spend most of their time. Among the items of interest here is a mengkuang mat covered maternity bed complete with a bunch of dried serum leaves.
Despite its singular sounding name, these multi-shaped dark green foliage are actually favoured by midwives for preparing bath water for their charges who have just given birth. Aptly named mandi serum, this process helps to cleanse the body and at the same time rejuvenate it.
Towards the end of the covered passageway leading to the second house, I come across grim reminders of the Japanese Occupation. The Terengganu State Museum conservators had intentionally left several bullet-riddled wooden panels and a bomb-damaged support pillar intact.
Unlike the rest of Malaya, Terengganu together with Kedah, Perlis and Kelantan were occupied by the ruling Japanese Imperial Forces only until 1943 when suzerainty of the four northern states was transferred to Thailand. This was done to honour the deal struck with the Thai government which allowed General Tomoyuki Yamashita’s men to cross into Malaya unobstructed