Of tradition and innovation
An opportunity to sample executive chef Zainal Barkis’ cooking opens Alan Teh Leam Seng to a whole new world where age-old tradition meets modern innovation
EASY-GOING, friendly and with an ever-present air of self-confidence, executive chef Zainal Barkis welcomes me to his “home turf” at Tepi Bendang Restaurant. Preempting my question regarding the name, Zainal leads me to the al fresco dining area which offers sweeping views of the tranquil countryside awashed with green paddy fields or bendang as they’re called here in Kedah.
Looking visibly excited, he offers me the best seat in the place before rattling off a long list of tantalising dishes that form the mainstay of TH (Tabung Haji) Hotel & Convention Centre’s F&B outlet. These popular fare speak volumes of Zainal’s ability to innovate as well as his years of experience in the hospitality sector.
Taking a sip of water from his glass, Zainal begins by peeling back the years and telling me about his childhood days in Selangor. “I remember those carefree days like they were just yesterday. There was nothing better than spending time with my four siblings and helping mother out in the kitchen. The games we played filled our backyard with laughter from the moment we got back from school,” reminisces Zainal.
GLIMPSE INTO THE PAST
The laidback lifestyle at his family home in Desa Maju Sungai Tengi suited Zainal perfectly. A natural introvert, he preferred to stay indoors and help out with the household chores. “Among all my siblings, I was the one mother trusted most when it came to cooking. She knew I was a perfectionist and wouldn’t rest until the task was done,” confides Zainal proudly.
After completing his primary education at Sekolah Kebangsaan Sungai Tengi, he moved to Kuala Lumpur where he attended boarding school at St. John’s Institution. Speaking in perfect English, Zainal adds: “The teachers there were very strict and all of us had to be very disciplined in our school work as well as conduct. At first I missed home very much and going back for the Hari Raya holidays became extra meaningful. I was so happy to be home and put in a lot of effort when preparing the festive goodies.”
Smiling, he adds: “When everyone praised my rendang, kuah kacang and cakes, it became obvious that things turn out much better when I pour my heart and soul into them. Since then, I’ve held on to that important life lesson, applying it in almost everything that I do.”
A WHOLE NEW WORLD
Zainal’s interest in culinary arts only started taking flight in early
1990 when he enrolled in MARA Institute Of Technology’s Eastern and Western Cooking diploma course. Exposed for the first time to proper cooking techniques and state-of-the-art equipment, Zainal soaked up everything that his lecturers had to offer.
Towards the end of the threeyear programme, he took up an internship in Langkawi. He purposely chose the island after hearing about its close similarity to the laidback lifestyle of his hometown.
The newly-opened Pelangi Beach Resort became his natural choice since it was the largest hotel in Langkawi then.
“It was somewhat a culture shock for me when I first stepped foot at Pelangi towards the end of 1991. My timing couldn’t have been worse. The place was crawling with westerners who were attending the inaugural Langkawi International Maritime and Aerospace Exhibition (LIMA). The thought of serving foreigners sent shivers down my spine. But soon my confidence returned after realising that they were rather easy going and not fussy about food at all.”
FIRST JOB
Before the end of his tenure, Zainal’s superiors were so enamoured by his indomitable optimism and can-do spirit that they offered him a permanent position at the resort. Despite knowing that the job would constantly keep him on his toes, Zainal took up the offer. To him, busy was good as it meant that he was learning new things.
He chuckles when asked about the difference between internship and a full time job. “Everything remained the same except that I started getting paid for my effort! Despite earning a basic monthly salary of just RM175, I managed to build up quite a substantial nest egg by staying at the quarters and having my meals at the staff canteen. Eating out was only reserved for special occasions and even, that was at a roadside stall serving chicken rice at Padang Mat Sirat.”
Zainal’s resume boasts of a long list of prestigious hotels throughout the country from the time he left Langkawi until finally settling here in Alor Star some 25 years later. Having had his fair share of heartbreaks and disappointments, Zainal has used life’s lessons to make himself a better person.
POSITIVE OUTLOOK
“It’s important that we see the positive side of every incident and make it a learning experience. The same goes with each of my job postings where I always start on a clean slate. To me, each place offers a totally different set of challenges that can be surmounted as long as I remain humble and keep an open mind,” muses the affable chef.
It has been almost two years since this father of three first arrived here. Not one to rest on his laurels, he has used his time wisely and brushed up on his Kedah cuisine knowledge acquired during his earlier stint at Pelangi.
I’m just about to pose another question when Zainal suddenly gestures towards the eastern horizon. “Look at the rain clouds! Let me go and whip up something suitable
for the cold weather. Give my team and me some time to get everything in order,” he says, before taking his leave.
SIGNATURE DISHES
In less than half an hour, I find myself at a table laden with a delightful spread. “The nasi goreng kambing and bihun sup tulang are Tepi Bendang Restaurant’s best-selling dishes. The ingredients are prepared fresh daily so that we’re ready to serve whenever the order comes in,” explains Zainal.
These signature dishes are Zainal’s own creations and came about after he started noticing the eating trends of local Kedahans. “During my stay here, I realised that the people here love mutton and fried rice. So I decided to merge the two together. During the experimentation stage, I used several types of cooked mutton and