Hidden gems of Melaka
Away from the Unesco Heritage site, discovers murals and quaint cafes along alleyways
PAST experience has taught me that the best way to climb St Paul’s Hill, the little mound in the heart of historic Melaka where the region’s oldest church stands, is to start at Porta de Santiago or A’Famosa, for the steps are easier to mount than from the other side of the hill.
I look around and spot the coat of arms of the Dutch East India Company stamped on the main entrance of the A’Famosa, the abbreviation VOC (Verenigde Oostindinsche Compagnie) still visible today.
Built in 1511 by Alfonso de Albuquerque when the Portuguese first landed in Melaka, Porta de Santiago, has seen many changes throughout the centuries.
It changed hands from the Portuguese when the Dutch took over and later it was saved from being demolished by Englishman Sir Stamford Raffles.
Today, the ruins of the church and A’ Famosa, the Stadthuys and other historic buildings are part of the Malacca Museum Complex. I’m on a heritage trail organised by the newly opened DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Melaka, a stone’s throw from the Melaka Unesco Heritage site, as a part of its 3D2N staycation.
OLD ROOF-LESS CHURCH
A slight breeze is blowing from the Straits of Melaka as I begin my climb. The hike takes less than five minutes.
The usually quiet hill is now filled with vendors selling keepsakes, souvenirs and drawings depicting many popular sites in Melaka. While the parents man the stalls, their kids make a few ringgit for themselves by selling whistles that sound like chirping birds.
Teeming with history, St Paul’s Church is impressive inside and outside. The stone walls still ooze charm despite being battered by the wind and harsh weather. The Portuguese, who were the first foreign power to conquer Melaka, built the church in 1521 before the Dutch took over and turned a portion of it into a cemetery. Today, you can still see tombstones dating back to 1650s.
A statue of St Francis Xavier, with a portion of its arm missing, stands at the main entrance. St Francis Xavier led an extensive mission into Asia under the influence of the Portuguese empire to spread Christianity to this part of the world.
The window-less and roof-less church offers a breathtaking view of the Straits of Melaka that stretches far beyond. A gentle breeze blows and it’s time to head back down, where the famous Cendol Jam Besar awaits.
ICY, TASTY CENDOL
Down from the hill, we walk towards bustling Jonker Walk, passing through the throng of tourists at the red-coloured Dutch Square. There it is — a cendol stall with patrons forming a long queue. The icy dessert is a must especially on a hot day.
There are a few places in the city that serve good and tasty cendol and this is one of them. Open daily from 3pm to 7pm, the cendol stall gets its name from the iconic Tan Beng Swee Clock Tower in front of the Stadhuys building.
As I eat my first slurp of the sugary dessert, with colourful condiments such as red bean and corn custard, I glance at the clock every now and then. The clock piques my curiosity about its origin. Although it is named after Tan Beng Swee, it was built by his son, Jiak Kim, in 1886.