LIFE&TIMES
our skies were common sight in the deep forests of Belum-Temengor in the 1990s and up to the early 2000s. However in recent years, there has been a sad decline in the number of these globally-threatened species making their migratory journey past the forest complex. In this instance, we count 138 birds flitting through darkening evening skies.
It’s time to head back to the houseboat. The journey is slow, with the boats navigating through the spears of barren trees poking above the waterline — an eerie reminder that an entire submerged forested area exists beneath the lake. Ever the consummate singers, both Victor and Chong break into songs, their voices echoing through the silent valley. A concert in the middle of the wilderness is something you don’t get on any other given day, and the rest of us listen raptly.
The ghostly sight of tree trunks reaching out from watery depths fills the typical scene at this swathe of natural wonderland. We’re told later at night, of submerged villages and burial sites — stories that give us chills as we stare into the inky blackness from our houseboat.
Coupled with the ubiquitous poochis that fly into the lights, the trio of city slickers — Victor, Chong and I look at each other before laughing nervously. The air is cool as we sit out on the open deck. The stars are out and a lone firefly hovers by the side of the houseboat before drifting out into the dark. The quietness feels different. “Listen...” says Sebastian, and we do. The chirrups of crickets, cicadas and the foghorn blasts of frogs serenade the night. It’s music of a different kind.
WILDLIFE WONDERLAND
In the 3-day-2-night expedition, we don’t get to see all that many hornbills. A total of seven species were spotted, namely the Bushy-crested hornbill, Wreathed hornbill, Black hornbill, Oriental Pied hornbill, Rhinoceros hornbill, the globally-threatened Plain-pouched hornbill and the criticallyendangered Helmeted hornbill. The occasional pelting rain cuts some of our trips out on the lake short. Huddled beneath disposable raincoats, we’re drenched but it’s to be expected. After all, nature is unpredictable — and therein lies the charm of such excursions.
But there’s still a lucky star that hovers over our expedition. To our delight, we spot a family of smooth-clawed otters on the banks of the lake, frolicking around the edges of the lapping water, and we get to witness a group of Asiatic elephants sliding through the steep banks and into the water. For all their heft, they seem graceful on their feet, not unlike land whales adrift above the floor of an ancient waterless sea.
For Victor and Chong, the expedition has given them a show like no other. “It’s such a humbling experience watching flocks of hornbills flood the sky,” enthuses Chong, adding vehemently: “Pictures and videos don’t do it justice. You have to come here for yourself and feel it. Really feel it!”
“It’s scary how we can get so caught up with life that we lose that connection with nature,” chips in Victor, adding: “There’s nothing like being in the rainforest. If you’ve not done it before, you have to try coming here at least once. The best is that this piece of wonderland is right here in Malaysia and we must do all we can to protect what we have.” What about the poochis? I ask. And she laughs heartily.
Our final show occurs as we head on back to the houseboat for the last time. Hoo...Hoo..Hoo... Hoo-hoo-hoo... Hahahahahahahaha! It’s the maniacal laughter of a Helmeted hornbill. By the sound of it, this lone bird is only a few trees away. And soon we spot it flying above the distant trees, its incongruously long central tail feathers and impressively large casque can be spotted from afar.
As we leave for the city — and the airport for some of our international visitors — soon after a hearty lunch at the Belum Rainforest Resort, our only fear is whether this wondrously fascinating yet delicate place can withstand the constant threats of poaching and illegal logging in the years to come. The Belum-Temengor forest may have existed for around 130 million years, but the battle for its survival continues. In the meantime, some of the world’s best entertainment — as Victor and Chong would attest — lies within this swathe of rainforest, and the show will go on, for as long as the forest continues to exist.
elena@nst.com.my