Fuji-san conquest foiled again
We woke up to a bright sunny day. Except for the wet roads, it looked as if it had not rained yesterday. It looked like the day would go as planned.
All ready in our hiking gear, we headed to the reception, only to hear bad news from Azlee. The road leading to Fuji Subaru 5th Station (2,305m above sea level), the most popular trailhead to the peak, and the climbing route from the station, were closed for clearing works. Apparently, yesterday’s rain and wind had covered the road and path with debris and fallen trees.
But Azlee had a plan B. We would sightsee Lake Kawaghuci which we had planned for the last day. So we hopped on the tourist bus, taking the Saiko Sightseeing Bus — Green Line.
Since we had the whole day, the pace was free and easy as long as we got on the last bus back to the Kawaguchiko Station. As tourists, we looked weird in our climbing attire — unattractive single-coloured quick dry shirts, trekking pants and hiking boots. The only thing that was missing was our trekking pole.
So off we went to our first destination — Saiko Iyashino-Sato Nenba, a reconstructed traditional village made of 20 thatched roof houses from the Showa Period (1926-1989).
Also known as the healing village, it stands on the site of a village devastated by a typhoon in 1966, on the shores of Lake Saiko facing Mt Fuji. The houses were turned into art and craft galleries, museums and shops selling local products and snack food. Our favourite was the shop that rents out kimonos.
Based on our research, rental prices here were considerably cheaper than in Tokyo. And, of course, we took the opportunity to dress up.
After playing pretty girls in kimono, we got down and dirty at two of three show caves in the area — Ice, Wind and Bat. We headed to Ice and Wind located next to each other. Apparently, Fuji-san’s past eruptions that resulted in lava flows created a number of caves at its northern base. Only three of them are open to tourists.
The day ended with a satisfying Indian dinner at a halal restaurant on the shores of Lake Kawaguchiko. Based on how the day turned out, we were hopeful that tomorrow would be a good day for our hike.
Our prayers were answered as the next day turned out beautifully sunny and windy. There was a long queue at Kawa- guchiko Station for buses bound for Fuji Subaru 5th Station.
My heart skipped a beat faster as we walked towards the bus station. I had mixed feelings — excited and anxious at the same time, probably because of my last hike up Mt Fuji and in India. Last year, I tried to climb Fuji-san but a migraine forced me to settle for the 8th Station and last July, altitude sickness made me return to my hostel in the city on the first day of hiking to the peak of Stok Kangri in Ladakh, India.
But the 50-minute bus ride managed to calm me down. We did not waste time. As soon as we got off the bus, we bid farewell to Azlee and got ready to hit the trail.
Azlee’s partner Anas led us to the trail. Unlike Yama-san, the local guide from my previous Fuji hike, Anas was more relaxed and calm. We walked at our own pace and stopped at our fancy.
As the day progressed, the wind started to get stronger and colder, blowing thick clouds to shade our path from sunlight. Nevertheless, one by one, we reached our hut at 8.2nd Station just after 4pm.
Settled in the dry, warm hut, Anas briefed us on the plan for the second leg of the climb. Based on our pace, he suggested that we wake up at midnight for the push to the summit. “We will reach the peak just before sunrise and we will head back down by 6am so that we will have enough time to freshen up before catching the bus to Tokyo at 1pm.”
It sounded like a good plan. But Mother Nature had her own plan. Just after dinner, it started to rain. At times, we heard whistling sounds through the crevices of the walls of the hut.
There was no sign of the rain abating. At midnight, we woke up to a downpour. Still determined, we got up to get ready for the climb to the summit.
But later, after much deliberation, we agreed to forgo our dream to reach Fujisan’s peak and checked out at 6am. The descent was easier, even in the rain.