SUNDAY VIBES
Elaborating, he says: “Normally ‘competition people’ would use Geisha coffee (Geisha coffee from Panama is the most expensive coffee in the world), or indulge in a funkier processing method to bring out the flavour of the coffee. We opted to use something that’s very common among the coffee-producing countries. We used caturra coffee, a natural mutation of the Bourbon variety, originating from Brazil. We chose this coffee because of its quality.”
Phua utilised a process that’s familiar to everyone — the washed process, whereby coffee is processed by the wet method. In this method, the fruit covering the seeds/ beans is removed before they’re dried. This method requires substantial quantities of water. “We also used a varietal that’s easily accessed like caturra. We just wanted to feature it on stage.”
Expression earnest, Phua confides that he personally believes in good quality coffees but those that you don’t necessarily have to pay a lot for. The award-winning Geisha coffee that he referred to earlier for example, can cost more than US$600(about RM2,443) per pound (450 grammes), particularly from the family-owned plantation, Hacienda la Esmeralda, located in Boquete, Panama. What generally happens in competitions is that baristas will use these expensive and exotic coffees. But do these beans get to the consumer and more importantly, will
Competitions like this, believes Aaron, is a wonderful platform for baristas to showcase their knowledge of coffee and the importance of having better quality coffee. Says Phua: “I feel that coffee is a beverage that’s under appreciated. A lot of the time people don’t understand what they’re paying for. They want something that’s bitter and really strong, whereas we want to be able to give you something that’s fruity and has lively acidity like fruits in a coffee. Not many Malaysians can accept this yet so it’s good to have competitions like this which allows us to present what we enjoy and also gives the public the opportunity to find out what’s going on within the industry.”
Changing trends in the industry continue to excite him, particularly those related to innovations in coffee processing. Excitedly, Phua shares: “We see how people are processing their coffee differently. There are now new things like anaerobic lactofermentation — wet fermentation in the absence of oxygen — which creates lactic acid, which in turn results in a creamier and full bodied/silky mouth-feel texture in the cup.”
In lacto-fermentation, Phua explains that oxygen is vacuumed out from the bag to let the coffee ferment with the lactic acid bacteria. “It brings out different characteristics in the coffee. Another trend at the moment is the carbonic maceration, an innovative fermentation method, and a process generally used in wine making.”
Phua, whose drink of choice is good ol’ espresso, keeps abreast with what’s happening around the world by “… a lot of reading and “following” overseas baristas on their “pages” to see what they’re doing. We try to keep up with trends. On our side, we try our best to understand what we can understand as well.”
Here at Thirty Seconds Cafe, the emphasis, shares Phua, is on “honest” coffee. “What we enjoy, we serve. And we strive to understand where the coffees are coming from. Lately we’ve been getting coffees directly traded from the farm so there’s no third party involved. Whatever we pay, it may be a little higher, but at least we know it’s going back to the farmers.”
The World Barista Championship is akin to the Oscars of the film world. Whoever wins this will have the biggest influence in the industry. And suffice to say, Phua’s raring to go. He and his team are already planning their strategy. But they’re adamant that whatever they do, it’ll be something that will benefit the industry.
Helping to put Malaysia in the top sixth in the world is Phua’s dream. Malaysia currently ranks seventh in the world in this Barista Championship. Success has been enjoyed In the Brewers Cup and Latte Art, where in the latter, Malaysia is world champion.
“In the Brewers’ Cup, we’re second,” says Phua proudly.
“The biggest ‘fish’ is this Barista Championship. We have to be in the top six. In 2017, we ranked number seven. In 2018, we ranked 10, highest in the whole of Asia. It shows that we’re improving from year to year and that we’re serving better coffee every day!”
intanm@nst.com.my
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