PROTECTING OUR FOOD HERITAGE
National Heritage Dept seeks Unesco recognition for traditional food
MALAYSIANS are a fortunate lot as the country is home to hundreds of delicious traditional foods. Ondeh-ondeh, sata, putu piring, lemang, pajeri, gulai tempoyak, otak-otak, pekasam and nasi kerabu are only a few of the delicious traditional foods that Malaysians get to enjoy, each originating from the different states and cultures in Malaysia.
Some of these foods are still served during festive seasons and special ceremonies. Some are even produced commercially.
A lot of it, however, are slowly disappearing from the local menu due to changing times and evolving palates.
It is no surprise that many from the younger generation have not even heard of these foods that were once a favourite of their great grandparents.
The National Heritage Department (JWN) has, to date, declared 213 foods to be traditional foods under the National Heritage Act 2005 to ensure that these foods remain a part of Malaysian culture and continue to be enjoyed by the current and future generations.
JWN deputy director-general Mohamad Muda Bahadin says ketupat sotong, nasi minyak and nasi dagang were included in the list.
“The act provides for the conservation and preservation of National Heritage, natural heritage, tangible and intangible cultural heritage, underwater cultural heritage, treasure trove and related matters,” he says.
JWN defines heritage as what is inherited from the previous generation. It is described as a national treasure that was, or is, owned by a community or people, and thus it becomes a collective responsibility to protect and preserve it.
Heritage food can be considered as part of a culture that needs to be preserved so that it can be enjoyed and appreciated by the generations to come.
Muda said JWN had sought out housewives, entrepreneurs and those from the older generation who were producing these foods.
“Our researchers and officers have conducted studies and created an inventory of traditional foods passed down from our ancestors and have now become part of the identity of a people.
“Details of these heritage foods such as the name, photos, videos, methods of creation, storage, preparation and the festivals or occasions related to it are all recorded,” Muda said.
Muda said every ethnic group in Malaysia has their own heritage food, most of which are now enjoyed by all Malaysians.
“Nasi lemak, for example, was originally a breakfast food of Malays. Today, it is a food loved by all ethnicities and enjoyed not only for breakfast, but for lunch and dinner as well,” he said.
Chinese favourites, such as dim sum, mee and kuey teow, are also now beloved by all Malaysians.
Foods popular among Sabahans and Sarawakians, such as umai, linut and manok pansuh, are also gaining popularity.
JWN World Heritage Division director Mohd Syahrin Abdullah says the department is working towards obtaining recognition for the heritage foods from the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco).
He said food was an intangible heritage element that could be nominated for Unesco’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity under the Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage 2003.
However, the recognition requires the fulfillment of several criteria, such as ensuring the visibility and awareness of the significance of the heritage and stimulating a dialogue that reflects the cultural diversity and creative expression of the element.
Syahrin said to obtain approval from Unesco, the nomination form would first be evaluated by an Advisory Board selected by the Unesco Secretariat.
A panel of experts in intangible heritage and an appointed body, known as the Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage, would examine each nomination before inscribing the candidates as elements on the list.
The committee would announce the final decision when it convenes, usually in November or December.
“If an element is recognised as part of the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, we will be given a certificate signed by the Unesco Director-General,” Syahrin said.