Flavourful delight
Feeling peckish for spicy fare, Ewe Paik Leong checks out several fish head curry restaurants in the Klang Valley
1. RESTORAN SUBERI NASI KANDAR, JALAN AU3/1, TAMAN KERAMAT
Beef pieces doused in curry gravy, goldenhued squids, spice-coated chicken drumsticks, cabbage stained yellow by turmeric, curry fish head and other dishes in platters tempt my palate. A piece of flesh from the fish head curry lands in my mouth whispering with muted umami.
The freshness is amplified but not overwhelmed by multiple waves of flavours from the spices. Tartness from the tamarind flirts with my tastebuds and then masala magic unfurls its full glory, mollified by coconut milk.
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2. RESTORAN KG PANDAN KARI IKAN KEPALA, JALAN THAVER, KAMPUNG PANDAN
When my fish head curry is set on the table, the smell of curry leaves wafts about. A slurp of the curry jolts me. The range of flavours include hot (from the chillies), lemony-mint (from the lemongrass) and bitter (from the mustard seeds).
A twist with my fork and spoon breaks the fish head into its various parts. The meat brings the seashore to my nostrils. Slices of aubergine and tomatoes give bite to the dish, a welcome change in texture. Rating:
3. RESTORAN AHAMED KARI KEPALA STADIUM MERDEKA,
DAMAI KOMPLEKS
I jerk upright in surprise when my curry fish head arrives. It is accessorised with onion rings, eggplants, okras, tomatoes and — of all things — pieces of carrot. The curry is bright but heavy as the sliminess of the okras acts like a thickener. There’s a tangy pucker from tamarind and nutty hits from fenugreek which mixes well with the rice.
However, the crunch of the carrots is a jarring textural counterpoint to the soft eggplants and okras that deliver a pleasant taste.
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4. PETER FISH HEAD CURRY, TAMAN P. RAMLEE
Choose from fish head curry, fish head curry plus prawns or fish head curry plus prawns and squid. Three sizes are available: small, medium and large. They are fortified with brown tofu and jazzed up with okra and eggplant. The squid, plump prawns and the fish head all play their roles well for me to down copious amounts of rice. The flavours of the spices burst on my tongue in ripples but the vibrancy is a tad weak.
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5. AH LYES CURRY FISH HEAD, JALAN SS19/1G, SUBANG JAYA
Submerged in an earthenware clay pot filled with rusty-coloured curry are fish fillets mobbed by okra and eggplant but no fish head. The curry is full of light acidic notes and a heavenly gush of spicy flavours.
The eggplant and okra are crying to be left longer in the pot so that they can be softer. However, the fish fillets deliver the whack of the seaside. Next time, I’ll order a big bowl instead of a small one to coax a fish head into the earthenware clay pot. Rating: