SUNDAY VIBES
Kreme to hotels, the Degayo Coffee brand can be found making its presence felt in a cuppa, shares Lee, a veteran in the beverage distribution business and who had, at one time, served as Asia’s ambassador for a company based in Australia prior to setting up his present company.
Coffee has become such an integral part of our lives. For some, it’s a pleasant habit that’s indulged in daily; with friends in the office pantry, or in espresso bars, or even alone whilst staring into space in a cosy little cafe somewhere, a book in hand. In some countries, there are even coffee ceremonies.
In Ethiopia for example, the Ethiopian coffee ceremony, which involves roasting coffee beans and preparing boiled coffee in a vessel akin to the ibriks used to make Turkish coffee, is an important part of their social and cultural life. To be invited to a coffee ceremony when in Ethiopia is considered a sign of respect and friendship.
And then there are those who take their coffee so seriously that they dedicate their time to studying its many complexities and contradictions. People like Lee, for example. “Coffee really is a science,” he says, rather matter of factly, adding: “Because if we really want to optimise a coffee’s profile, we do need to understand the science behind it.”
There are many things that contribute to a coffee’s flavour, elaborates Lee. The variety, the roast profile, the brew recipe, and the processing method are just some of them. “And when you actually start to break it down, you’ll realise that a coffee’s flavour profile is actually the result of one thing the chemical compounds,” he explains.
These compounds, continues Lee, are affected by the way we roast coffee, the type of coffee that we have and also the altitude that the coffee was grown at. “Part of our Jasen Lee, Managing Director of Global Coffee Resources.
coffee knowledge is art-driven, and the other part is science-driven.”
Asked where his vast knowledge of coffee comes from, Lee replies: “Oh, I’ve attended a lot of coffee courses and I’m also a certified roaster, as well a certified lead instructor of the Malaysia Specialty Coffee Association.”
As we arrive in front of a counter where a simple coffee extraction process is being demonstrated by a trio of lively youths, Lee muses that the coffee culture is still very much alive and kicking here in Malaysia. The early boom might have slowed down somewhat — but coffee is still here to stay.
“In the days when cafes were sprouting up, the focus tended to be on the coffee itself,” says Lee, adding: “In the last two years or so, the concept has changed. Food or dessert was added to complement the whole coffee experience and coffee was no longer the main focus. You started seeing more of an integrated, comprehensive coffee outlets opening.”
In terms of how “developed” we are as a population in terms of our coffee appreciation, Lee believes that Malaysians are getting a lot better as compared to five or 10 years ago. “I’ve seen more and more people enjoying good quality coffee,” he elaborates. “Here’s a simple example: Not so long ago, people would go into a cafe and would mostly order milk-based coffees like latte or cappuccino or some flavoured concoction. Nowadays, you see at least 20 per cent of those people have converted from a milk-based coffee to a black coffee, and without adding sugar.”
That in itself shows that people are getting more sophisticated in terms of their coffee understanding. “Because with good coffee, you just have to drink it on its own,” exclaims Lee, adding: “People are starting to ask the barista what beans they’re being served, what the barista recommends for them to try. People are getting more demanding and this shows me that the market has evolved.”
Asked to measure the scene here against that of Melbourne, Australia, which is synonymous for its exciting coffee culture, Lee concedes that we still have much to learn, for example, in finding new ways and methods of coffee extraction, coffee roasting, in addition to how we conceptualise the look and feel of a cafe. But that said, Lee believes that Malaysia is not too far behind.
“We have a lot of talented young people with good knowledge of coffee in our local market,” enthuses Lee. “They know how they want their coffee to be, how to roast their coffee and how to serve the coffee using very precise extraction methods.”
On the world stage, Malaysian baristas are certainly making waves. “Like in the World Brewers’ Cup in Brazil last year, which highlights the craft of filter coffee brewing, Malaysia got first runner up,” shares Lee, proudly, adding: “And in last year’s World Latte Art competition held during the 2018 Brazil International Coffee week, our own Irvine Quek was the winner. For barista, we’re world number 7. So that tells you that we’re climbing up in terms of our standard, but of course, there’s still room to grow and there’s plenty of potential in the market. I’d say the gourmet or specialty coffee-lover market would definitely continue expanding in years to come.”
Soon, we find ourselves at the end of the hall where a buzz seems to be emanating from one corner, which is swarmed by a lively crowd. It’s a latte art competition involving local baristas. “Oh, I want to see this!” I exclaim, turning to Lee excitedly. He nods with a smile, before informing me that he has another appointment to attend to.
However, before bidding me farewell, Lee, who’s privy to changes in the coffeescape, having been in the business for more than 20 years, offers in conclusion: “The coffee trend is an ever-changing space. And this is exciting for passionate coffee professionals because it allows them to keep innovating new coffee experiences for the consumer market.”
intanm@nst.com.my