Jerejak’s dark and light side
With its murky past as a leprosy colony and penal colony, Pulau Jerejak’s history and natural beauty will be the chief draw for tourists, writes Zulkifly Ab Latif
“NEVER withdraw from life. No matter how tough the going is.” My eyes follow each stroke of these words, scribbled by unknown hands some 28 years ago on a wall of an abandoned prison camp at the Jerejak Rehabilitation Centre, a maximum-security prison that once operated on Pulau Jerejak from 1969 until 1993.
Another line below it reads: “Each of our lives have dark days. Never renew the darkness again.”
Hopeful and heartwarming but against a contrasting backdrop of cracked plaster, peeling paint and rusting metal cage windows, the words are echoes of a soul who had to endure living in the grim and harsh place.
Walking to another corner of the building, I spot a faded newspaper clipping of a woman in a swimsuit on a wall. It’s another echo of the isolation of the place, cut off from the rest of the world.
The abandoned prison structures are but one layer of the storied history of Pulau Jerejak, a small island located off the southern-east side of Penang.
For almost a century, this tiny island — it’s only 3.62km in size — was used for a multitude of purposes, including as a leprosy colony, a tuberculosis hospital, a quarantine station for immigrants, a temporary place for returning Hajj pilgrims and as a penal colony.
AN INMATE ISLAND
Having explored the prison camp buildings, I make my way on foot back towards a derelict jetty by the sea.
Located at the north-western tip of Jerejak, the jetty is an eerie sight of rusting iron and crumbling concrete.
Wrapped around the pillars and railings of the jetty are faded and ragged remnants of Buddhist prayer cloths. One of the guides tells me a few Buddhist priests had performed a ritual here, perhaps as a blessing for a brighter future for the island.
The old jetty was once used by prison personnel to commute from the island of Penang through the jetty of Gelugor, a southern suburb of the capital city of George Town.
Less than a hundred metres away, I spot an old building with a distinct art deco architectural style.
The numbers 1911 is splashed prominently on its facade, signifying the date it was built.
Prior to the establishment of a penal institution here in 1969, the north-western area of Jerejak was also the location of a quarantine station.
Built in 1910, it was used to house and observe new immigrants to ensure they were free from any contagious diseases such as tuberculosis before they were allowed to enter Penang island.
Venturing closer to the 1911 building, I am about to walk inside when one of the guides stops me, saying that it is dangerous to do so.
Initially, I think it may be related to something superstitious but the guide tells me that the interior of the building, particularly the ceiling and roof supports, is crumbling and falling apart.
A STIGMATISED ISLAND
Climbing into the cargo bed of the guide’s pick-up truck, we make our way back to Jerejak Island Resort about 2km away, the starting point of my visit to the island.
On the return journey, my guides, who are employees of the resort, point out more historical points of interests such as the prison warden’s barracks as well as a kindergarten.
Hidden somewhat by overgrowth, I spot tombstones of differing designs, indicating the different religious backgrounds of those who have passed on.
I am told they are the graves of leprosy patients back when the island was used as a leper colony.
Set up as a leper camp in 1867 by the Straits Settlements government, Jerejak played an extensive role as a place to segregate leper patients from the public.
Also known as Hanson’s disease, leprosy was a much stigmatised disease during the 19th century throughout the world. Much effort was placed on segregating leprosy patients from the main population as it was initially believed to be highly contagious.
The stigma of leprosy during that period of time is evident on the island. Facilities and buildings were built to house leprosy patients from all the territories of the British-controlled Straits Settlements and later on from other states in Malaya.
For decades, Jerejak served as the main leprosy colony of Malaya until the development of Selangor’s Sungai Buloh leprosy settlement in 1930.
According to historical records, many leprosy patients who were cured of the disease opted to continue living on Jerejak for the rest of their lives, perhaps reluctant to return to society due to the stigma attached to their medical condition.
Many went on to do agricultural work or seek a living as fishermen on the island, living a quiet and peaceful life far away from judgmental stares.
A HERITAGE ISLAND
Stopping near the ruins of what was once a guesthouse overlooking the sea, I spot a white bellied eagle soaring effortlessly high above, reminding me that the island’s natural history is far older than any of ruins left behind.
One of the eight islands in the state of Penang, Jerejak is not only rich with history but also with flora and fauna.
Nestled between the larger island of Penang and the mainland of Seberang Perai, Jerejak is home to a forest brimming with almost 210 species of plants.
Thick vines and roots are slowly reclaiming the ruins of the prison camps and buildings. Visitors can also spot longtailed macaques bounding about.
With a hilly landscape covered in thick coastal forest and fringed with mangroves, Jerejak is now somewhat of a nature preserve after ceasing to be a penal colony 28 years ago.
Indeed, Jerejak has seen its share of dark days for nearly a century. Maybe with new attractions, it can finally shed its dark image and become a place for people to appreciate nature and part of Penang’s past.
With fun day trips and historical tours, recent developments on Jerejak are on the most part headed in the right direction.
Even so, after spending a day delving deeper into the island’s history and natural world, I firmly believe that the historical value of the island should be preserved.
This should be done out of respect for all the lives who once called the island home either voluntarily or reluctantly, and for reasons such as duty, disease, public health or paying their dues to society.
Historical buildings on Jerejak such as the 1911 building near what was once the quarantine camp should be restored and conserved, perhaps as a museum centre for visitors to learn about the island’s history.
THE NEW ISLAND
I am back at Jerejak Island Resort, having satisfied somewhat my curiosity about the island’s historical past.
The resort is the latest development on Jerejak and it leverages the island’s natural beauty and rich history.
Refurbished from a previous establishment that did not take off as expected and given whimsical splashes of decor and colours, Jerejak Island Resorts presents itself as a relaxed and fun spot.
It’s ideal for either for a quick day trip or for overnight stays away from the hustle and bustle of Penang’s cityscape.
With 72 deluxe rooms in its apartment blocks and chalets, Jerejak Island Resort offers a tropical island-themed stay a mere 10 minutes by ferry ride away from Penang.
The chalets are located atop a small hill and is conveniently secluded, away from the beachfront area that may get a bit crowded sometimes with day-trip visitors.
Bright yellow bicycles available for rental line the paved road near the main entrance to the resort grounds. There are also quirky structures designed to be Insta-worthy at the beachfront area.
One notable and popular structure is a flight of white stairs that reaches up a few metres to the sky and is aptly named Stairway to Heaven.
Amusingly, for some unknown reason, there is even a giant inflatable rubber duck floating in the sea near the beachfront.
For day-trip visitors, there is an openair food court with white picnic tables where one can order cold drinks, snacks and local delicacies such as satay.
Large industrial-grade fans blast cool air from each corner of the food court, providing some relief when the sun shines too fiercely on this part of the tiny island.
Having returned from an adventure into the island’s somewhat grim and sad past, the sight of families and visitors happily snapping away for their social media photos at Jerejak Island Resort is quite a contrasting scenery.
I am immediately reminded of the words I read on the walls of the prison camp left by an unknown inmate — “Each of our lives have dark days. Never renew the darkness again.”