Prestige (Malaysia) - - Contents -

Dis­cover the lat­est

it­er­a­tions of Mon­sieur de Chanel

The lion, one of the more re­cently adopted em­blems of Chanel, rears its ma­jes­tic mien in the lat­est it­er­a­tions of Mon­sieur de Chanel,

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when chanel in­tro­duced its first in-house move­ment (Cal­i­bre 1) through its first ded­i­cated men’s line (Mon­sieur de Chanel), it dis­closed a nugget of i nfor­ma­tion: The lion, beloved by its founder and eter­nal muse Gabrielle Chanel as a tal­is­man of strength, would be present in all of Chanel’s future in-house move­ments. True to its word, all three of them — be­gin­ning with t he Cal­i­bre 1 and in­clud­ing this year’s Cal­i­bre 3 — fea­ture a small lion mo­tif at­tached to one of the bridges.

For the last two years, the lion was like a guardian an­gel, hid­den in the move­ment or dis­cretely placed on the crown or the buckle, faith­fully safe­keep­ing Chanel’s pas­sage through time. All that has changed: At Basel­world 2018, the mai­son threw the spot­light on the ma­jes­tic beast, adding four models to its Mon­sieur de Chanel col­lec­tion.

The first two are new vari­ants of the Mon­sieur de Chanel time­piece. Pre­sented i n the pro­pri­etary beige gold or white gold, they re­tain fa­mil­iar features such as the slightly domed sap­phire crys­tal, spe­cially de­signed nu­mer­als, over­sized jump­ing hour indi­ca­tion and ret­ro­grade min­utes dis­play.

Re­plac­ing the small sec­onds sub­dial that used to be at 6 o’clock, how­ever, is a carved lion fig­urine in ei­ther beige or ox­i­dised white gold (depend­ing on case ma­te­rial). Its sinewy form is hand-carved by the same Genevan artist re­spon­si­ble for the glyp­tic and gold-en­grav­ing work in the Made­moi­selle Privé line. Pre­sented on a black Grand Feu

enamel dial by fore­most enamel artist and long time col­lab­o­ra­tor Anita Po­chet, each vari­ant is avail­able only i n 20 num­bered pieces.

The sec­ond ad­di­tion is the Mon­sieur de Chanel Chrono­sphere clock, made in col­lab­o­ra­tion with Swiss clock spe­cial­ist L’Epée 1839. Lim­ited to only five pieces, it takes in­spi­ra­tion from — no sur­prises here — an ob­jet d’art in Gabrielle’s apart­ment, which de­picts a large rock crys­tal sphere sup­ported on the backs of three bronze lions made by Goossens Paris.

The Chrono­sphere is pow­ered by a move­ment de­signed by Chanel’s Watch­mak­ing Creative Stu­dio, but was de­vel­oped and man­u­fac­tured by L’Epée 1839. Time is dis­played on t wo spher­i­cal ro­tat­ing discs printed with the same nu­mer­i­cal ty­pog­ra­phy as the Mon­sieur de Chanel watch. En­closed within a glass sphere sup­ported by three hand-sculpted gal­vanised bronze lions, the move­ment os­cil­lates at a steady 2.5Hz and runs on a 7-day power re­serve.

In the Mon­sieur de Chanel pocket watch — a first for the brand — Chanel fits a mod­i­fied and unique ver­sion of the Cal­i­bre 2 (launched in 2017, it de­buted in the Pre­miere col­lec­tion) into the pocket watch. Although the move­ment’s com­po­nents and reg­u­lat­ing or­gan re­main, the bridges and main­plate have been re­designed to re­flect a more mas­cu­line aes­thetic. Housed in a white gold case rimmed with 57 baguette-cut di­a­monds, it features black ADLC-coated com­po­nents that have been cham­fered and bev­elled to ex­ude a more 3D ef­fect. Most of the screws have also been hid­den to en­hance its stealth ap­peal.

De­sign­ing some­thing spec­tac­u­lar

to house the pocket watch be­fit­ting of its tech­ni­cal beauty was an­other pri­or­ity. The pocket watch can be de­tached from its gold chain and hung on a black ob­sid­ian frame as a ta­ble clock. Guard­ing this pre­cious ob­jet d’art is the im­pos­ing struc­ture of a lion in white gold coated in black HyCeram (a spe­cial ma­te­rial that com­bines the prop­er­ties of high-qual­ity ceramics with modern three-di­men­sion­ally crosslinked poly­mers), with its paw pos­ses­sively atop a gold sphere set with baguette-cut di­a­monds.

Once again, it is Gabrielle’s in­flu­ence that helps shape the creative de­ci­sions at Chanel. The lion’s de­lib­er­ate pose — a univer­sal sym­bol of wield­ing power over the world — is in­spired by the many fig­urines of the an­i­mal found in her Rue Cambon apart­ment. Born un­der t he Leo as­tro­log­i­cal sign, Gabrielle res­onated with this sym­bol as she as­pired to gain control over her own destiny and life.



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