BUY­ING TIME

Chanel com­bines tech­ni­cal ex­per­tise and cre­ative with the Made­moi­selle Privé, writes ru­bin khoo

Prestige (Malaysia) - - Contents -

Go be­hind the scenes at auc­tion to

dis­cover the ac­tion-packed

ap­peal

For an in­sight into the world of Gabrielle Chanel, the Made­moi­selle Privé is the per­fect cre­ation. The time­piece presents the things that mat­ter most to the iconic fig­ure, all recre­ated through the hands of the finest mas­ter ar­ti­sans – enam­ellers, en­gravers, carvers and ston­es­teers. This year the French house takes things up a notch, com­bin­ing cre­ativ­ity with tech­ni­cal ex­per­tise as the Made­moi­selle Privé pre­sented at Basel­world 2018 is fit­ted for the first time with a fine watch­mak­ing move­ment, the Cal­i­bre 2.1 Camélia Skele­ton.

The camélia is syn­ony­mous with the House of Chanel, go­ing back to the days when Made­moi­selle Chanel is said to have fallen in love with the flower after read­ing, La Dame aux Camélias by Alexan­dre Du­mas in which the hero­ine al­ways wore a white camélia, as a sym­bol of her pu­rity.

The camélia flower serve as in­spi­ra­tion for the move­ment within the Made­moi­selle Privé. The move­ment was drawn and de­signed in-house by the Chanel Watch­mak­ing Cre­ative Stu­dio and de­vel­oped and as­sem­bled by the Chanel man­u­fac­ture in Switzer­land.

Now it has emerged as a tes­ta­ment of Fine Watch­mak­ing for Chanel as the Made­moi­selle Privé col­lec­tion pens a new chap­ter in its cre­ative his­tory. Its aes­thetic qual­i­ties and tech­ni­cal skills are el­e­vated to Métiers d’Art in their own right.

The Cal­i­bre 2.1 Camélia Skele­ton is a man­ual-wind­ing me­chan­i­cal move­ment, dis­play­ing hours and min­utes. The Skele­ton move­ment has a power re­serve of 48 hours. It comes with 125 com­po­nents, adorned with 21 ru­bies. The di­a­mond bev­elled bridge is in amor­phous di­a­mond­like car­bon (ADLC) and grey gold bot­tom plate, set with 185 bril­liant-cut di­a­monds. The up­per aux­il­iary plate in grey gold is set with 242 bril­liant-cut di­a­monds or in onyx. The lower aux­il­iary bridge in lac­quered brass bears the move­ment’s mark­ings in a pow­dered sil­ver fin­ish.

It vi­brates at a fre­quency of 28,800 vi­bra­tions per hour. It has a vari­able in­ter­tia bal­ance and one fixed-clamp bar­rel. The di­am­e­ter of the move­ment is 31.2mm and the thick­ness of the move­ments is 5.4mm. The sys­tem is anti-shock to pro­tect bal­ance with vari­able in­ter­tia bal­ance.

It comes in two ver­sions. Both are glit­ter­ing with a bezel set with 60 bril­liant-cut di­a­mond. This com­ple­ments well with the 18K white gold case, case back and buckle. The crown is also 18K white gold with onyx cabo­chon 18K white gold with gal­vanic treat­ment. The 18K white gold camel­lia skele­ton dis­plays 185 bril­liant­cut di­a­monds while the black satin strap is en­hanced with a 18K white gold dou­ble fold­ing buckle set with 80 bril­liant-cut di­a­monds. The other is sub­stan­tially more or­nate with an aux­il­iary up­per plate set with 242 bril­liant cut di­a­monds.

This col­lec­tion adds yet an­other chap­ter to Chanel’s cre­ative saga and un­cov­ers new grounds for ex­press­ing un­sur­passed skill and know-how of the Métiers d’Art crafts­man­ship used in Fine Watch­mak­ing and High Jewelry.

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