IN CONFIDENCE

The watch industry’s top leaders and creative visionaries expound on company ideals, goals and global trends

Christoph Grainger-Herr CEO of IWC, on how the brand marries

modernity and heritage

“I always go back to our founding father, Florentine Ariosto Jones. He was not only a watchmaker and

an engineer, but an industrial entrepreneur from America. He came to Switzerland with the mission of

combining traditional Swiss craftsmanship with the American industrial approach, and it’s been the same ever since. If our watchmakers and engineers find a way to create something that makes our watches even better, then we will use it. We are not afraid of technology. This contrasting idea of modernity and heritage has never been a contradiction for IWC. We have always been comfortable with it. After all, that’s

how we started.”

Geoffroy Lefebvre CEO of Baume & Mercier, on catering to digital-savvy consumers

“Two ways: first, speak their language, and second, use their tools. We are present on Instagram and Facebook and are very active on social networks. I think having a professional and analytical approach will allow us to crack the codes of the younger generations.”

Louis Ferla

CEO of Vacheron Constantin, on the value of art in watchmaking

“Art is extremely important, and it is very close to what we do and the values that we have and respect at Vacheron Constantin. If you buy a watch for more than 50 euros, it is already unreasonable because you can look at your phone for the time, or buy a cheap plastic watch for 20 euros. If you spend more than that, it means that you are looking at more than just the time. Our connoisseurs who wear Vacheron Constantin timepieces value the high level of finishing and the art that we put into it.”

Georges Kern

CEO of Breitling, on good taste

“Breitling has always been perceived as a pilots’ brand, with a utility that can easily extend our world into other spheres. Of course, while aviation remains the brand’s main pillar with its emphasis on functional, legible pilot’s watches in larger sizes, Breitling also produced elegant watches like the Premier and the Top Time. Here’s an interesting point for all the people fixated on the big statement Breitling watches with their wings and motifs. On a very rational level, I examined which Breitling line sold the most over the last 18 months. It’s the Superocean Heritage with mesh band – a beautiful, classic watch with no Breitling wings.

I’ll let the consumer decide what he wants, but I’ll stand by my own personal choices for the brand when it comes to taste. If by chance, I have the same taste as the consumer, then great: we are in perfect harmony.”

Nicholas Rudaz

COO of Franck Muller, on the revolution of e-commerce

“With social media revolutionising the way products are distributed today, it’s important for the watch industry to follow that trend. We cannot

go by without jumping on that bandwagon, and maybe one day we will develop an opportunity to do e-commerce. But at Franck Muller, our priority

is to design and produce exceptional watches.”

Maximillian Büsser

Founder of MB&F, on undying dedication

“I am incredibly inspired by real artists, who create and craft something without ever having any commercial attitude to it. At the MAD gallery, we curate mechanical or kinetic artists, including some of the most incredible human beings who live in virtual poverty, yet will never give up their art to get a day job. Their art, their expression of themselves is amazing; they prefer to barely make ends meet to create these incredible machines.”

Aurel Bacs Co-founder of Bacs & Russo, on assessing watches from smaller, independent brands

“I look at the same criteria as when I look at a big established name. First of all, I have to like it. I don’t want a watch on my wrist that I don’t like. I can respect it, but that is very different from wanting to have it on my wrist. I don’t care how important the label is. I want to be impressed by the finish, construction, creativity and the watchmakers’ ingenuity, no matter the watch: modern or vintage, mainstream or niche. I’d like to feel that whoever made the watch that I like put love and passion into it.”

Wilhelm Schmid

CEO of A. Lange & Söhne, on e-commerce

“You can’t buy us online just yet, but if that is what our clients want, we will entertain it as we are customer driven. For me, buying online is not a brand differentiator but a customer request. I feel that strong desire from customers to do their homework in the digital world, because it’s so accessible. But money against watch? That’s a different story so far, because most people still want to see a face, and want a person to assist in the sales process, so physical shops remain the preferred purchasing channel.”

Patrick Pruniaux CEO of Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux, on focusing on the right things

“I’m more worried about the things we don’t do right yet, rather than the results, which may or may not be a good illustration of the work we’ve done. You can meet success without being good; likewise, you can fail despite being very good, so I’m more obsessed with what we do well and what other things we need to improve.”