CLEAN BREAKS
JING ZHANG SELECTS THE KEY LOOKS AND STYLES FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2021
Explore vibrant key looks and styles for Spring/ Summer 2021
Fashion is dreaming of bright futures and fresh starts. In a period of anxiety and insecurity, many designers mined the power of fantasy to express our collective desires. There’s a sense of yearning and innocence, of nature, the sea and travel – and also hope and positivity. Activity, sports and the wilderness provide inspiration as things we’ve learned not to take for granted. Cheery summer hues reigned, as did safer blacks, whites, blues and neutrals. It’s not surprising that a new, stripped-back aesthetic took hold at many brands, as they did away with superfluous decorations and returned to the core essentials.
LOUIS VUITTON THE BIG PICTURE
Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2021 collection abolishes gendered boundaries for some vast neutral ground. Ivories, beiges, sand and light greens come together for a serene and calm collection that nods to nature, the desert and travel. The desire to roam, to be on the road, has worked its way here – movement is free and easy, inbuilt into the fabrics and structure of the clothing, and combinations come off effortlessly. The French luxury house, however, introduces flashes of bright colour prints in surprising places, adding plenty of personality to this collection. The clever layers, the wide shoulders and expert tailoring all point to a new attitude in fashion – one that’s more conscious, thoughtful and yearning for a fresh start.
THE FINE PRINT
Utilitarian features, wide boxy sleeves and V-necks — a distinctly masculine twist to the women’s season. Neutrals in gentle layers and combinations. Hints at new journeys to come with cool new cross-body bags.
CHLOÉ THE BIG PICTURE
Looking forward, this collection, designed by Natacha Ramsay-Levi (who recently left the brand), is a celebration of the female gaze, spirit and its intimacies. Flowing dresses, trousers and layered tunics reinforce the DNA of a brand that’s always championed female freedom. There’s a lively bohemian attitude here, in loose, modern shapes that promote movement. There’s also a sense of agency, with boyish shapes and versatile separates that can be combined and worn in myriad ways. Some of our favourite outfits consist of “multi-layered planes of colour – washed neons, bleached neutrals and warm mineral tones” that are light and fresh, despite those layers. You’ll also find key Chloé codes, with pleated crêpe dresses and camisoles, rib knits and cotton tunics that are artfully stencilled with florals and appliqué Art Nouveau blooms.
THE FINE PRINT
Graphic silkscreen works by American artist Cortia Kent printed, embroidered or woven on garments and accessories. Delicate details like butterfly collars, broderie anglais and lace.
CHRISTIAN DIOR THE BIG PICTURE
Always one to reference social movements in her work, Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri addresses the current crisis by looking at “transforming behaviours, habits and rituals”. This year has been one during which many of us have reassessed lives, patterns, priorities and relationships with style – so Chiuri leans into this spirit, with an aesthetic inspired by female poets, intellectuals and writers such as Susan Sontag and Virginia Woolf. Patchworks of paisley, lace and floral prints create a romantic, slightly bohemian vibe, and layers of tunics, shirts, trousers and dresses give us possibilities to mix and match. A distinctive easing of silhouettes shifts the focus to fluidity and movement. Silk chiffon long dresses in hues such as light blue or pale orange are particularly ethereal.
THE FINE PRINT
Reinterpretation of 1957 Dior silhouettes created for Japan in the Dior Bar jacket. Freewheeling style with tie-dye, Batik prints, tunics, wide trousers and layers. A casual rebellion from the former codes of high fashion.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN THE BIG PICTURE
Exaggerated sleeves and a cinched waist define the silhouette this season at Alexander McQueen. This collection is a fine example of precise tailoring mixed with bold eccentricity – quite a British combination, it must be said. The flamboyant shapes contrast with beautifully crafted pieces, perfectly pleated and draped fabrics in black, ivory, white and fresh pale pinks. We can’t help but admire the purist precision in those lines, as well as stunning leather pieces, cut-out knits and light summer mackintosh styles – a gorgeous line up, and we want it all.
THE FINE PRINT
Contrasting textures with denim, leather, silk and knits. Dramatic shoulders and big balloon sleeves that make a statement. Modern take on bustier and corsetry details on the most desirable dresses.
MARNI THE BIG PICTURE
Instead of doing an empty runway show, Marni photographed the spring/ summer collection on real people from the brand’s “collective” in their home cities, rather than on models. “Clothes as collective connectors creating a community and coming from a community. Clothes as vehicles of freedom and self-expression,” says the brand before a spring/ summer 2021 iteration that, instead of “I”, is all about “we”. The consideration for this moment in history takes the brand to its global community, exchanging ideas through words that run over pieces of clothing.
Outfits look like results of a collaboration put together and collaged with artisanal style. Clothing is deconstructed and reconstructed in a process that’s full of beautiful imperfections.
THE FINE PRINT
Long coats, tulle layered underskirts — a sense of protection in these outfits. Unfinished edges and details: raw and visceral scribbles and hand-painted looks.
CELINE THE BIG PICTURE
Sports and athleisure inspire a casual spring/summer collection at Celine, with hints of 1990s grunge as per Hedi Slimane’s remit. This time, it’s livelier and more wholesome with baseball caps, hoodies, plaid shirts worn over fluid evening dresses and a frilled off-the-shoulder mini-dress in sunshine yellow. The “runway” was an enormous sports stadium in Monaco, without a live audience, of course.
THE FINE PRINT
Outdoorsy shoes such as sneakers, flat boots and hiking boots. Off-duty starlet vibes with jeans, suit jackets and sports-bra combos, as well as denim- and leather-jacket mixes.
MUMU THE BIG PICTURE
This season’s Miu Miu Club draws parallels between the fashion show and the sports club. Miu Miu explores the links with
“a sense of polarity”, putting eveningwear against sportswear, pragatism with preciousness, and then “reality versus digital, an event staged in an empty stadium, yet simultaneously observed by many” online. The outfits are athletic and slim fitting, with bold block colours, sporty prints and stripes. Hemlines are short, pants are straight-cut and skirts split to the thigh for movement – this is a pop-tinged collection that’s full of fun.
THE FINE PRINT
Fashion-forward athleticism with bright miniskirts, sports jackets, polo shirts, sneakers, and football boots. Streamlined and simple shapes. Dichotomous accessories by way of heels and mini handbags.
BURBERRY THE BIG PICTURE
Riccardo Tisci’s offering for the British house of Burberry took an honest and emotional turn this season, having been completed during the pandemic and lockdown. The moments of reflection were clear in the clothes. Blue, in its symbolism of the vast sea and sky, was a central note, reflecting the time Tisci spent with his mother at their home near Lake Como. A childlike innocence can be seen in the ocean-inspired, otherworldly illustrations adorning all sorts of outfits. Spring trench coats spliced with other pieces were heroes throughout the collection.
THE FINE PRINT
Sublime deep indigo hues on denim, nylon, silk and cotton. Gorgeously fluid silvery dresses that glistened and wrapped around the body in the finale. A fine, emotive line up from an invigorated and humbled Tisci.
VERSACE THE BIG PICTURE
Wet hair, bright starfish and sea-creature motifs, and pastels mixed with neon hues – the Versace Medusa comes straight from the ocean via a ’90s rave. Donatella Versace transports us underwater to “Versacepolis” for escapism and fantasy as the world adapts to the new normal. With almost cartoonish colour palettes, outfits feature contrasting prints, patterns and undulating frills that recall the waves. We love the bigshouldered jackets, a hint of tailoring in an otherwise fluid collection – most powerful in an ’80s-inspired navy pinstripe iteration, worn with beach or surfer wear underneath.
THE FINE PRINT
Versace’s Trésor de la Mer print. Casually layered and opened-up shirts and jackets. A cool and contemporary attitude with a fantasy element.
VALENTINO THE BIG PICTURE
Long and languid silhouettes make even floor-length gowns look relaxed as waistlines are eased, dropped or even done away with. Exhibiting less of the usual bells and whistles of the Italian house (one steeped in couture and red-carpet gowns), Valentino creates a collection that’s serene and optimistic. There’s hope, joy and light at the end of this very strange tunnel, says Valentino this season. Easy denims and wide slacks make for effortless, casual chapters, while bright florals, light frills and summer colours bring unbridled joyful femininity.
All that, combined with the precision of cape-like dresses, in one mono colour and sometimes fringed, makes for an interesting mix
THE FINE PRINT
Fresh bolts of colour — lilac, bright orange, neon pinks — with black-and-white hues. Stripped-down and simplified, with more pure lines. Long flowing shapes and sensual simplicity.
CHANEL THE BIG PICTURE
Inspired by actresses before the red-carpet photo call, Chanel’s spring/summer collection is a tribute to its many cinematic muses over the years. A wardrobe to dress a star in Cannes for the festival and a holiday after, the paredback, effortless glamour here reflects youth, joyfulness and colour. Fluid dresses, trousers, skirts and light layers pinpoint the essence of the light and lovely collection. Ercu and black tweed in airy iterations come occasionally with theatrical accents featuring pearls and feathers for added drama.
THE FINE PRINT
Neon hues, stark whites and pale pinks. Bermuda shorts reminiscent of vacations. Ultrafine tweeds light enough for steamy summers.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO THE BIG PICTURE
Creative director Paul Andrew paid direct homage to moments in Alfred Hitchcock films. Feminine Hollywood glamour and silver-screen Technicolors are echoed in the saturated hues: vibrant greens, mauve, lobster orange and sunny yellow playing against more neutral greys and tans. Tailored for sensuality and femininity, but also for movement, this is a sexy summer collection imbued with simple lines and sophistication.
THE FINE PRINT
Matching colours, curated Hollywood selfconsciousness. Slinky dresses, a grown-up attitude and refined shapes.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI THE BIG PICTURE
Inspired by the beautiful gardens of the Italian Riviera with “radiant colours enhanced by the energy of the sun”, Giambattista Valli brings us on a journey through blooming Mediterranean nature. The silhouette, however, is more composed and Parisian – fluid shapes that are feminine and happily working for day or evening. Cotton, poplin and georgettes are printed with flora (rose branches, blooms and palm leaves), and feature embroideries and sequins. Peaches, lime and aqua colours all recall the Italian coastline: the smells, the sights and the feeling.
THE FINE PRINT
Sorbet hues, happy and positive holiday moods. A new monogram as the leitmotif alongside the maison’s logo — embroidered or printed on shirts, bags, pant pockets and belt buckles.
GIORGIO ARMANI THE BIG PICTURE
For Giorgio Armani’s spring/summer 2021 collection, women’s silhouettes were soft, fluid and close to the body. There’s vibrancy in the geometric patterns, creating a distinctive rhythm and flow. Elegant suiting as well as evening gowns all have a purity and discipline that’s firmly part of Armani’s language. White summer suiting allows for movement, while black, alchemic bolts of silver, and sparkling celestial blues, greens and greys appear on ethereal eveningwear.
THE FINE PRINT
Fresh bolts of colour — lilac, bright orange and neon — flattering long silhouettes, graphic geometries and loose, effortless trousers for a relaxed, summer style.
RALPH LAUREN THE BIG PICTURE
The classic American brand again toys with the masculine and feminine, mixing the two influences for women with an adventurous streak. It’s a very disciplined colour edit, featuring navy, whites, black, brown, beige and stripes, with blasts of sophisticated florals. Well-tailored, slimline jackets, jumpsuits (we particularly love the asymmetric one), airy and wide trousers – outfits perfect for yacht-hopping around Nantucket to the Caribbean or Monaco.
THE FINE PRINT
Graphic classicism through two-toned colour contrasts. Slim, cinched and elegant silhouettes. Contrasting loafers for effortless unisex style.
LORO PIANA THE BIG PICTURE
The sophisticated Italian label gets a bit more fashion-forward, while staying true to its timeless DNA. The feeling of light layers moves to a weightlessness for summer in this colourful, joyous collection that takes inspiration from a journey along the Italian Riviera. Recalling ’50s and ’60s glamour, and the films and actresses that defined it, these effortless shirtdresses, spring parkas and trenches, capes and capris are a wonderful addition to the wardrobe. Bold colour blocks and stripes make for an eternally positive summer vibe.
THE FINE PRINT
Graphic heels, lace-up espadrilles and embroidered sandals. Light fabrics like baby cashmere, linens, silks and comfy silk jerseys. Vivid hues on matching outfits for a bolder, more youthful Loro Piana woman.
LOEWE
THE BIG PICTURE
JW Anderson turns exhibitionist at Loewe this season with a dramatic collection that leans into fashion extremes with an artful allure. In lieu of a show, the brand did a “Show-onthe-Wall”, in the form of an oversized artist’s portfolio. With bursts of inflated volume, Anderson pulls fashion to its extremes, with exaggerated hips, legs and sleeve shapes. Knotted fabrics create all sorts of theatrical sculptures – a way of fashion escapism and play in a time when we need it the most. Fantasy taken to its most extreme.
THE FINE PRINT
Dramatic silhouettes and details, from exaggerated balloon sleeves and skirts, to flaps of fabric, hoops and swathes of tulle — artful and sculptural. Delightful handbags, including a new balloon shape.
HERMES
THE BIG PICTURE
Hermès returns to its roots this season, but with a new attitude informed by how the pandemic has changed our priorities and given us a yearning for more responsible fashions. Outfits often come in mono-colour – all black, tans, eggshell, beige and flashes of burnt orange and sky blue. Luscious leathers, fishnet dresses and slick apron pieces make for some of the most enticing items in the collection.
THE FINE PRINT
Modern minimalism. Clean lines, shapes and delineated fabrics— a precise collection for precise women.
PRADA
THE BIG PICTURE
The spring/summer 2021 Prada womenswear show is a distinctive dialogue and debut collection by co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, who go back and forth about the relationship between technology and humanity in the contemporary age. The clothes are heavily inspired by the concept of uniform, and how it projects shared identity and belonging. A precision of lines and sartorial codes, there’s exploration of a Prada uniform, one that’s pared-back and refined, without frills and froth. Nylon coats, fleece suiting and straight silhouettes – there’s a sense of protection as models hold garments around the body.
THE FINE PRINT
Refined elegance by way of the rectangular wrap. Strict lines and codes on display.
SAINT LAURENT THE BIG PICTURE
Sharp body-conscious tailoring in trousers, suiting and little waistcoat vests were very much for the city – there’s a confidence here. Sixties influences come from the brand archives and the lacy high-cut underwear as outerwear is a risqué – though not unsurprising – turn for a designer who wanted “a return to the essence of things”.
THE FINE PRINT
Sixties vibes with feathered sleeves and off-the-shoulder styles. Essential shapes and styles, undiluted.
THOM BROWNE THE BIG PICTURE
In parallel with the menswear, Thom Browne womenswear is an ode to sportsmanship with wool, seersucker, cashmere and cotton. Proportions are exaggerated, with elongated waists and long structured blazers. These jackets and blazers are sewn together and embroidered with bows and rosettes. Layers of white invoke “a lunar procession”. Browne mixes satins and grosgrain ribbons together, and shows off classic knit cardigans in white alongside long ankle skirts, occasionally pleated and sport polo shirts.
THE FINE PRINT
Wide-brim hats, big weekender bags and long flat boots. Mixed materials for textural contrasts.
RICK OWENS THE BIG PICTURE
Titled “Phlegethon” after one of the rivers in Dante’s Divine Comedy that’s “not quite the centre of hell, but on the way there”, Rick Owens’ spring/summer collection brings out the pure with the lurid. Fire-engine red and bubblegum pink feature on thighhigh leather boots, cut-off micro shorts and fluid, feminine dress. There are plenty of contrasts with architectural leathers, cotton tunics and robes, as well as soft feminine fabrics.
THE FINE PRINT
Models with masks. Focus on the thigh, cut-outs, short shorts and thigh-high boots. A play on the tension between architectural and fluid through contrasting fabrics.