MATERIALS SCIENCE
The creator of Moonshine and Sedna gold brings forth the patent-pending Bronze Gold as justin ng discovers OMEGA’s latest Seamaster 300.
Discover Omega’s latest Seamaster 300 as it makes a statement in patent-pending Bronze Gold
Arecurring theme at Omega for the past number of years has been its innovative interpretation of metals – precious or otherwise. When the conversation turns to watches or jewellery at the upper echelon, it is invariable that gold is part of that conversation.
Gold is a much-vaunted material for artisans in part thanks to its gorgeous lustre and perceived value. Throughout history gold equates wealth, power and status, and even though it no longer functions as a form of currency, it remains a popular commodity to hedge against inflation and economic uncertainty. Although pure gold, or 24k, is used as a form of raw materials in watchmaking such as the crafting of the case, the oscillating weight of an automatic movement or the balance wheel, it is rare – if at all – used as is.
There is a deliberate reason to this and it lies within the domain of metallurgy. While gold is denser than steel – a ubiquitous alloy in watchmaking – it is surprisingly malleable. Gold can be beaten into a variety of shapes, from a fragile sheet of gold leaf attached to a piece of chocolate to trays of gold bars stored in bank vaults. Its peculiar nature being heavy yet soft at the same time presents a unique challenge to alchemists who are tasked to turn gold into a watch case that can withstand the rigorous abuse arisen from wearing while providing a safe haven for the movement housed within.
The welcome solution to the conundrum is to turn gold into an alloy by melding it with other metals to achieve a result that promotes their collective strengths and conceals all of their individual shortcomings. If you have come across vintage watches frequently, it might occur to
you, some of them are housed in gold alloys of unconventional mix such as 9k or 14k.
Today’s watchmakers almost universally favour 18k gold. A sweet spot between a generous amount of gold for opulence (75%) and a sufficient injection of other metals for practicality and purpose (25%), it offers the right balance between purity and durability. Playing around with the formula, you will encounter coloured gold across the spectrum. A pinch of copper, the alloy takes on a redder hue, while white gold is commonly seasoned with palladium.
Like an experienced chef who knows a recipe can be adjusted to taste, Omega is rather prolific at imparting gold alloys with a distinctive flavour. 18k Sedna gold is the brand’s own rendition of 18k rose gold, while the creation of Ceragold entails an impressive process of which a ceramic bezel is decorated with gold numbers and scaling to ensure the finished product such as the Seamaster Planet Ocean possesses a sumptuous quality.
18k Moonshine gold, which debuted in the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Moonshine Gold Limited Edition, seeks to evoke the everlasting moonlight blanketing the ground below. Apart from offering a higher resistance to the fading of colour over time, it reveals a paler hue than traditional 18k yellow gold. Last year in honour of James Bond, the muse of the Seamaster collection, Omega released the Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Numbered Edition in elegant platinum-gold, which is a meld of two of the most celebrated and luxurious metals.
This year gold continues to be indispensable, as Omega tempts us with the latest 41mm Seamaster 300 clothed in Bronze Gold, bolstered with a brown ceramic bezel ring. The patentpending alloy boasting an aesthetically pleasing soft pink hue lies halfway between Moonshine and Sedna gold.
The unwavering tie between bronze and diving dates back centuries. Up until the invention of modern materials such as plastics, diving helmets were made of bronze. Despite the superficial oxidation resulting in a greenish patina developing naturally over time, it serves to protect the underlying metal from further corrosion. A growing appreciation of patina on watches has led to a proliferation of bronze watches in the past few years. Informed collectors know that patina takes a long time to acquire and is unique to each watch. Akin to cultivation, the condition of which the watch is subject to determines its eventual aesthetics, thus cementing the bond between the watch and the wearer.
But there is one conspicuous problem – potential hazards from the exposure to Verdigris as the bronze case ages and rubs against the skin. While other brands skirt around this issue by separately fitting their bronze watches with titanium or steel casebacks, Omega opts to go it alone by developing Bronze Gold. As suggested by its name, this exclusive alloy contains ample copper to encourage patination, but at the same time, is complemented by other elements such as 9k gold (37.5%), palladium and silver to inhibit the development of Verdigris.
Benefitting from vintage touches inspired by the original 1957 creation, Omega also takes the opportunity to incorporate a common bronze alloy (CuSn8) into the dial, which has been aged till dark brown beforehand. In addition, the sandwich dial consists of two plates, one featuring “vintage” Super-LumiNova, and another recessed hour markers and openwork numerals. Apart from being thinner than the previous version thanks to a new sapphire glass, the METAS-certified dive watch houses a brandnew Master Chronometer enhancement. The beautifully decorated self-winding Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912 stores 60 hours of power reserve and is magnetic resistant to 15,000 Gauss.
Although other examples clad in stainless steel instead of Bronze Gold are available, the differences between them span beyond case materials as there are variations in design, which we will no doubt explore in upcoming issues.