VIVA ITALIA

Chef Alfredo Russo brings his imaginative Italian flavours to The St Regis Kuala Lumpur.

Alittle grey sphere sits in an oyster shell. It looks pretty, if a little unassuming. A spoonful, however, reveals its magic. This is chef Alfredo Russo’s signature oyster ice cream, every crystal containing a defining essence of oyster. Drizzled with olive oil, sprinkled with fresh black pepper and intensified by the cold, it is a potent ball of flavour.

Known for his inventive, but reverent, approach to Italian cuisine, Russo recently presided over a series of meals at The St Regis Kuala Lumpur. Recipes from the Michelin-starred chef ’s kitchen at Italy’s Dolce Stil Novo came with him, expertly paired with Italian wines. The next dish, mozzarella with broccoli puree, was his interpretation of a mezze – creamy, smooth and, with an anchovywrapped black olive, pungent. The roasted prawns with a trio of potatoes was a triumph, paired with a lovely Donnafugata La Fuga Chardonnay. Perfectly seasoned, the lightly charred prawn flesh played off the different textures, anchored by a delicate cream sauce. It tasted very Italian and very honest. So too did the ‘ broken pasta’ and beans in seafood broth, Russo’s version of a meagre dish that sustained Italy after World War II. Poor no more, as in his hands, it became a symphony of hearty flavours. A poached egg with tomato, fresh basil and pecorino cheese followed – the three signature flavours of Italy wrapped in the viscous embrace of the egg. A Wagyu escalope then paid tribute to the earth, focusing on root vegetables yet remaining surprisingly light with the watercress/ celeriac sauce. A creamy ricotta cheese and citrus parfait rounded up the meal – accompanied by a Donnafugata Kabir Moscato di Pantelleria – a tribute to Sicilian cassata that was a sweet end to a perfectly Italian evening. stregiskualalumpur.com ≠

Chef Alredo Russo is known for his inventive, but reverent, approach to Italian cuisine.